I have an issue at the moment which a couple of people have suggested lifting the car fully off the ground and checking the 4wd system is operating correctly. Including running the car with the wheels off the ground.

As I understand it though the Freelander is part time 4wd, so if I did go down this route, what would I expect to see?

Without it running what should happen as I rotate each wheel?

With it running what should I be looking for?

Thanks

The FL2 always starts off in 4 wheel drive up until about 19mph.
So if your front wheels scrabble for grip on a sharpish take-off from stationary, then suspect haldex.

If steering lock is applied when moving then 4 wheel drive is inhibited and there should be no scrabbling of the wheels as you turn.
If you have this or any noise you have a problem.

Symptoms are in link, Bell Engineering are the place to go for advice, servicing or repairs.

https://www.bellengineering.co.uk/fault-symptoms

Did you say what your problems are?
[/b] FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 82k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

I don't think it is Haldex.

I'll keep it simple and post as it is now as things have changed over the last couple of months.

Currently there is a kind of rumbling knocking noise coming from the rear nearside (UK) wheel.

It doesn't occur all the time.
It seems worse at the beginning of a journey.
It can seem to go away for a while.
It seems worse when turning especially when going over a slightly uneven surface (like where the tarmac is slightly worn)
It seems to happen at any speed but above a certain speed you don't notice it as much but I think that is due to the increased road noise.
From the limited testing I've done, you don't seem to hear it from outside.

As the noise has got worse the rear end has become more 'floaty' and doesn't feel quite right.

The above is the same with or without the Haldex unit plugged in.

I have the following parts on my shelf waiting for me to fit...

Rear discs,
Rear calipers,
Rear shoes,
Rear pads,
Rear drop links,
Haldex service kit


With the Haldex unit unplugged, I can wheelspin if I boot it from a standing start. With the Haldex unit plugged in I can't. With it unplugged I struggled to get off the drive in the snow.

As well as changing the above I was going to swap the rear tyres to the front, partially to rule out a defective tyre making noise and partially as the rears are slightly less worn than the fronts, so swapping will help to even out the wear.

I have done the old wheel bearing test with each wheel in the air and they have no play at all.

No ABS faults
No transmission faults (unless I unplug the Haldex)
No relevant faults at all.

I'm using an Autel AP200 to check for faults. There are a few stored ones but they are for things like interior alarm sensor, parking sensor, intermittent door lock fault and the electric heater behind the dash.

IanMetro wrote:

The FL2 always starts off in 4 wheel drive up until about 19mph.
So if your front wheels scrabble for grip on a sharpish take-off from stationary, then suspect haldex.

Nbuuifx wrote:

I have done the old wheel bearing test with each wheel in the air and they have no play at all.

I had a shot NSR wheel bearing - no play on the wheel whatsoever and the noise sounded for all the world as if it was centre rear… Convinced the diff nose bearing was failing based on those two things…

Booked the car into Bell’s for diff repair/replace but Austen (Bell’s) diagnosed NSR wheel bearing - even said he'd pay the cost of the bearing replacement if he was wrong - he was right. Wheel bearing replaced, problem gone. Cheap fix to what I imagined was going to be an expensive job.

I seem to remember a test for rear wheel bearing wear is to drive down a straight safe road at about 20-25 mph and steer left to right to bring any noise out by wobbling the bearing under load. Anyone tried this.

Like Reggie, I have a drone that I was convinced was an expensive fix (front in my case, so was wondering if the new IRD had failed).

Absolutely zero play in wheel bearings, and both front bearings were brand new in August when the previous owner had them fitted.

Put the car up on a 2-post lift last week and slowly ran it up to road speeds while my mate put a stethoscope on all the suspect parts. Turned out one of the new bearings had failed. New Meyle bearing received from Advanced Factors, ready for me to fit this coming weekend.

As regards the original question, the haldex relies on wheel speed sensors. If you have the car in the air you'll not necessarily get speed readings from the rear wheels depending on how light you are with the throttle. Also be sure to DISABLE the DSC or it will be applying braking force to the wheels. Current driveway contents:
2021 V60 Cross Country B5
2009 FL2 dog bus and shooting wagon

On Order: 2023 Fisker Ocean Ultra - deposit paid.

I Like Chips wrote:

I seem to remember a test for rear wheel bearing wear is to drive down a straight safe road at about 20-25 mph and steer left to right to bring any noise out by wobbling the bearing under load. Anyone tried this.

ReggiePerrin
Memory jogged yes the bearing test was done at Bell. I remember he didn't give me a warning first so could have been done at 35 to 40mph. Anyway the car passed that one but needed replacement diff and haldex.