Hi all,
Welcome some advice on a starting issue on 2009 HSE TD4, which seems to be cranking too slowly to start on cold (below 5C) mornings when it hasn't been used for 2-3 days, even previous use was 120 miles round trip in daylight without wipers etc.
New 110 EFB calcium battery fitted January 2023.
After charging 2-3h it shows 12.7 v across battery posts and across terminals.
With engine running, 14.7v across battery posts so I guess that alternator output is ok.
Can't check cranking voltage until wife gets home to operate starter while I'm under bonnet, but could it be dodgy starter wiring or failing starter? Or is the relatively new battery not holding charge - and is there any way I can check that with a DIY multimeter?
Many thanks
dram

Last edited by dram2020 on 12th Feb 2024 6:58 pm. Edited 1 time in total

21 yr old battery would be well past its best

Ooops - fitted January 2023
thanks

Whats the spec of the battery: Ah and CCA ?

Will the car start ok from another good battery ?

I'd check all the connections for corrosion eg battery to chassis and engine to chassis earths and feed to starter motor .
A lot of current is required during starting and dirty contacts can have enough resistance to reduce max current to starter motor even if there is continuity on the multimeter. Jules

If the battery is good and after checking all the connections I would suspect the starter, is it still on the original and what sort of milage?? 2013 FL2 XS.
Defender 90 300 TDi.
Defender 90 300 TDi CSW.
1964 MGB Roadster.
1944 Willys MB "Jeep" with bullet holes. (gone)
17 hand Irish Drought Thoroughbred (mostly lame)
Nagging Old Boiler.

You can check the capacity of a battery by putting the headlights on full and main beams for fifteen to twenty minutes, then see if the engine cranks

Or you could buy a cheap battery monitor from ally express
Just going to fit it tomorrow lol

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005850126853.html

Many thanks all - much appreciated.
I now see that cold start problems are quite common with FLs - who would have guessed?
I'll check the pre-start battery voltage , cranking voltage and (if it starts) alternator output tomorrow morning after a cold night (frosty already at 22:30).
AFAIK it's the original starter - probably the only bit not replaced. So, yes, I have suspicions.
But I guess it could be bad earths or poor cable connections - a neighbour told me his dad had the alternator and starter replaced and the problem was fixed, but when the old units were tested they seemed to be fine, so the honest fitter told him it might just have been poor connections which were sorted when the replacement units were fitted!
Another suggestion has been dodgy glow-plugs - they are probably originals, too. Any way of checking them (other than trying new ones)?
The car was serviced by local LR specialists 2 months ago and I did ask them to diagnostic check battery and charging system but weather was mild and there were no faults to trace.
Cheers all!

Quote:

dodgy glow-plugs

I experienced the same poor, slow, cold starting when I bought my 2010 td4e around 4 years ago. I went through all the above scenarios, (except starter motor), including changing the glow plugs ( make sure you get the correct ones for your car ). Things improved slightly.
Whilst changing the cam belt I managed to snap off the small terminal to the starter solenoid. I found a genuine replacement starter from a late model, low mileage Evoke. I don't have the numbers to hand, but it seems IIRC, that the last starter motor produced for our vehicles was somewhat uprated. I fitted the starter and this made a huge difference in cranking speed. The car now starts much better in the cold weather, but still not as well as other vehicles in my stable. The car had around 160k miles at the time.
There are other threads on here with similar outcomes.

Here is a link regarding the glow plugs

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic36420.ht...b468382f9I

And my post regarding the starter motor parts numbers

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic37354.ht...cb468382f9

Good luck

Thank you so much for your detailed and helpful response. Much appreciated, especially the links.
If it doesn't crank/start later this morning, I'll book it in for having these points checked by local independent guy who does most of the neighbouring farms' LRs. He's usually busy, so meanwhile I'll put it on the smart charger every night - might at least eliminate the glow-plugs from the equation.
Thanks again.

Well, a bit milder this morning (6C) and drizzle.
Voltage across battery posts fallen to 12.56 overnight, so I suspect not holding charge or something is draining even though no after-market accessories installed.
Cranking voltage about 6.8v, cranking fairly slowly but started after about 5-6s. As it started despite the slower cranking, I think the glow-plugs are ok.
Charging voltage 14.72v, so I'm hoping alternator is not the problem.
So I'm guessing that the problem is with the 1-year old battery (Varta E46 EQ EFB 110, 90Ah) and/or cable connections.
Have connected it back to the smart charger to bring it back to full charge and will check it again tomorrow.
Thanks all.

Link to my own Battery Experiences
https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic38965.html?highlight=battery

After trying to live with the problem and buy Charger/Booster to work-around the unreliable starting on a relatively newish battery, I ended up taking the advice shown in thread and bought a larger battery.
Since then I have had reliable starting this winter. (touch wood)

Also have you an added extra Battery/Chassis earth? FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

Last edited by IanMetro on 13th Feb 2024 1:48 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Hello, and thanks for comment.
The supplier of the battery fitted last year told me it was largest available for the vehicle.
I'll check to see if an extra earth strap has been fitted when I get back this evening.
Cheers

Update:
Battery showing erratic output and replaced under warranty.
Thanks all!