Hi all; I know this is a topic that's been covered a few times and I've read a lot of posts here just now, but still have a few questions so please bear with me.
2015 Freelander; the power steering fluid is flying out of a very rusty and perforated pipe. Firstly I'm wondering if this pipe seems to just push into a rubber section further up, can this metal part be purchased separately?
Secondly tips for removing the torx screw? Rusted solid. I had to grind off three of the undertray bolts to even get this far but don't reckon on getting a Grinder anywhere near that one. All ideas on how to unscrew it very welcome.
Thirdly: I take it I have to buy the entire assembly? Haven't removed the old one yet (due to aforementioned torx bolt) so no idea of what it looks like and how many parts there are, but a quick online search has thrown up the same image for a lot of online sellers. None of whom will post to Northern Ireland, and the only one who will is asking £59.99 postage.
However all help and advice very welcome.

As you say you need to change the pipes ( I call them the wibbly woobly pipes) in the photo.

To get at and undo the bolt I suggest since you are replacing the WWP to cut the pipework to allow better access.

You may be lucky with narrow jawed mole grips if there is access or you may have to use a drill and bolt extractor or else drill and helicoil a new thread.


Have a look at the movie the pipe connector is similar but female.

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic37576.html

Try calling Maltings for the pipes

https://maltings4x4store.co.uk/

Last edited by I Like Chips on 19th Nov 2021 5:06 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Called down at a Landrover Specialist this morning and bought the required pipes; once actually in my hand it all became much clearer ie what goes where and what is attached to what.
Five hours yesterday to remove the underengine tray didn't help; three bolts had to be ground off from underneath. I'm now wondering how my local garage managed an oil and filter change in August without removing it - I was too lazy, but they might have been too clever! In any case the TORX bolt was left for this afternoon. That's a good point about cutting the pipes, especially now I know what to cut and what not to - thanks. That's why I always post before starting, another point of view is often very welcome. They didn't have a replacement bolt, the guy on the counter told me most people just reuse the old one. Mine might not be fit for reuse by the time i'm finished but I'll have a suitable bolt somewhere.
I'm now off to see what works, will report back.

I wonder if they removed the under tray easily enough but over tightened them when they put it back ?

A thin smear of copper grease on the threads will make the undertray bolts forever easy  2014 Freelander 2 TD4 Manual Dynamic
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover - undergoing restoration

SYFL2 wrote:

I wonder if they removed the under tray easily enough but over tightened them when they put it back ?

Can you grind some flats onto the sides of the Torx bolt? then open ended spanner or mole grips to remove? 2014 Freelander 2 TD4 Manual Dynamic
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover - undergoing restoration

Just a thought - it is Torx or Allen? It's very rusty and I assumed Torx, but just been surfing and someone has referred to it as an Allen bolt?

Triumphdriver wrote:

NOW: today's woes. I've cut the pipes as suggested so have access to the torx bolt, which is not only solid but rounded off. I can - very carefully - grind everything around it off so as to get better access but I reckon it will have to be butchered.
However the very rusty pipe in my photo, the one with the test label attached, is causing problems; how on earth do you get the lower pipe out? The left pipe with the black clip came off very easily, but the other is a push-fit and I've no idea of how to remove it. Any ideas?

The joint between the two pipes, my rusty pipe facing up and the bottom of the hose that comes down from the pump / reservoir. It's a push fit with a small black collar; not the one you can see in my photo of the rusty pipes, which is the larger collar and which I have removed, but the other, longer metal section that pushes straight into the downward-facing hose, just out of shot.

Grind the head off in whichever method fits best then reattach using a self drilling screw?

 Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

I can grind / butcher / drill the torx screw; that appears my only option now. Six hours I've been at that vehicle today - five yesterday - and I've never met anything so user-unfriendly. Every single nut bolt clamp and screw is angled so that it's completely inaccessible; even the clip holding the top power steering hose on (the one that I can't work out how to undo the lower hose from) is facing away from me and too small to get a bit / screwdriver / grinder in at. Somewhere in the engine bay are four screwdriver bits that fell out of the holder as I tried to manoeuvre.
Even the parts websites are like some impenetrable type of spy manual - all I want is a replacement torx screw. No-one lists one with the power steering hoses, so I've had to try to search separately and might have found it on a site marked HS3. I then had to search for that part and found RYP501040. Is that the one? No idea. The sites don't tell me where it fits, so it could also be RYP501170. Oh for a clear diagram where I can point and say: that's it.

https://www.brit-car.co.uk/products/land-r...&_ss=r

I can't get the broken piece out of the top hose, I can't get the torx screw undone, I can't replace it as I don't know what part it is, and I can't get the rest of the section of pipe off as it's clipped to the chassis by some kind of rusted screw that I can't even get at. it's going to be a long weekend.

Your '15 model seems to have suffered with corrosion. Never had an issue removing any fastner on my '14.
Wouldn't get hung up on correct part number torx screw, any self tapper, nut bolt or cable tie will do the same job. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Triumphdriver wrote:

The joint between the two pipes, my rusty pipe facing up and the bottom of the hose that comes down from the pump / reservoir. It's a push fit with a small black collar; not the one you can see in my photo of the rusty pipes, which is the larger collar and which I have removed, but the other, longer metal section that pushes straight into the downward-facing hose, just out of shot.

2010 HSE Auto
Just had the same job done this week. Old pipes looked exactly the same.
Done by my local garage. Charged 2 hours labour as I supplied new pipe bought from LR parts.
Paid £54 including delivery. Ordered one day, delivered next day. They send all parts by DHL express.
The sump guard is held on with stainless steel bolts.
They said biggest problem was separating old pipe from section going up to pump.
Wish you well. Jim A
Fl2 HSE 2010 auto
Disco 2Td5 auto 2002 gone
Disci 1 300Tdi auto 1996 gone