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Simon J



Member Since: 27 Jul 2019
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 695

2008 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Auto Rimini Red
The ol’ resonance/vibration at 1800 rpm

Yes, I know, there must be dozens of threads on this or similar topics but ....

The resonance in my FL2 is always at 1800 rpm, whatever the gear, and I think I can rule out any transmission or drive train problems as it is completely unrelated to road speed - just revs. Is there perhaps some connection with the resonance/vibration coinciding with peak torque and once the engine reaches, say, 2000 rpm all is well again. This seems to be a Land Rover problem as a friend’s Mitsubishi Outlander with the same engine exhibits no such problem.

One suggestion I have read is that it’s related to the FL2 exhaust assembly so I’m wondering if anyone has ever replaced the exhaust system and found the problem disappeared?

Post #406384 9th Apr 2021 3:58 pm
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Dave47



Member Since: 31 Aug 2014
Location: Margate Kent
Posts: 1291

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Auto Izmir Blue

Good luck with your research on this Simon,
Many have reported this same issue and many
suggestions have been made, ie Turbo, tyres and anywhere
in between Exclamation
I hade this issue a number of years back, only really
noticeable when underload say, pulling away on a hill,
My decision was to wait for it to develop into something obvious
or something to break!! Whistle
after four years I don't notice it now, although I have a drone/turbine
sound which is getting loader.
It would be great to find a definitive answer to this annoying problem,
Dave DAVE.
I.A.M. F1rst Driver.
Gone 2003 Discovery TD5 Auto,
Gone 1986 Defender 90 Station Wagon
Gone 1984 Range Rover 3.5 Vogue Manual.
Gone 1970 Series 11A/3 SWB 3.5 V8 Hybrid
Gone 1964 Series 11A LWB Van
Gone 1966 Series 11A SWB Van
Gone 1964 Series 11A LWB Station Wagon,

Post #406385 9th Apr 2021 4:55 pm
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MotionInc



Member Since: 17 Jun 2019
Location: North America
Posts: 1291

Canada 2008 LR2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

You are certain that the drive shaft U joints are not the culprit? Since these are sealed units & bloody expensive from LR(very stupid but profitable), I was meaning the change mine to ones with zerks......

Possible causes could be the software for the transmission, etc., the front CV joints (does it happen when the vehicle is turning in a specific direction), the PTU splines, the drive shaft, the exhaust seems a stretch but who knows. It could be the torque converter but that should not be rpm specific. Do you feel it through the pedal or just from underneath? My two cents Cdn, I'd check everything mechanical first to eliminate possibles.

I'd really have a good hard look at the propeller shaft, etc..

Post #406386 9th Apr 2021 5:12 pm
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Simon J



Member Since: 27 Jul 2019
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 695

2008 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Auto Rimini Red

Thanks for the ideas and suggestions, chaps.

I really cannot see that it can in any way be associated with the drive line as it is not speed sensitive, nor direction/turning sensitive: it only manifests itself at 1800 rpm but in any gear. If my wife is driving I can always tell when the engine hits 1800 rpm as the resonance/vibration is immediately apparent from the passenger seat.

It is most noticeable under load but it’s still there when cruising and unfortunately, 1800 rpm pretty much corresponds to 70 mph. Accelerate to 75/80 and all is smooth again. But if I rev it up to 1800 rpm when in neutral all is smooth. I did recently have an annoying rattle from the rear which, again, was noticeable when in Drive, even if stationary, but disappeared in Neutral. When getting the car serviced last week, I asked the guys to track down the noise and it turned out to be a loose heat shield. But I thought it interesting that this rattled when in Drive but not when in Neutral which made me wonder was the exhaust vibrating when under load just at the point of maximum torque when there’s presumably also maximum load on the engine mountings?

The auto gearbox is clearly designed to change up such that in the next gear max torque comes in, which is 1800 rpm! So the car spends a large proportion of its motoring at that rev point so this may just strain the exhaust mounting or the engine mountings.

Post #406390 9th Apr 2021 7:04 pm
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I Like Chips



Member Since: 25 Jun 2017
Location: Ascott Under Wychwood
Posts: 1439

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Indus Silver

I suggest it is a problem with the torque converter and there maybe a solenoid at fault too. Do you know of a gearbox specialist who will sit in the car with you to check it out?

Post #406391 9th Apr 2021 7:50 pm
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Simon J



Member Since: 27 Jul 2019
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 695

2008 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Auto Rimini Red

I had wondered about the torque converter as the input to it is surely the only part of the transmission running at engine speed? I don’t know of any auto gearbox specialists but an avenue worth pursuing.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Post #406392 9th Apr 2021 7:54 pm
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I Like Chips



Member Since: 25 Jun 2017
Location: Ascott Under Wychwood
Posts: 1439

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Indus Silver

I would shy away from spending on a test rig diagnostic, could cost a lot to have the test done. I was lucky to find a place on recommendation that initially sat in on a test drive for free and I had the work done by them.

Post #406395 9th Apr 2021 8:10 pm
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Simon J



Member Since: 27 Jul 2019
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 695

2008 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Auto Rimini Red

Thanks again. I wouldn't plan to throw a lot of money speculatively at it but if I can find someone who knows their stuff who might come out for a drive in it, that has to be worth a try.

Post #406396 9th Apr 2021 8:14 pm
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MotionInc



Member Since: 17 Jun 2019
Location: North America
Posts: 1291

Canada 2008 LR2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

If it's the torque converter it should get progressively worse.......it's more like something is out of balance at specific resonance correct? I'd get a mechanic to check all u joints (easy enough to do) and the tranny and engine mounts while you are at it before going the torque converter route.

BTW, did this start after you changed the transmission oil?

Post #406401 9th Apr 2021 10:49 pm
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Simon J



Member Since: 27 Jul 2019
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 695

2008 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Auto Rimini Red

No, it’s not a consequence of recent gearbox oil changes - have made no difference, one way or the other. I bought the car with 123,000 miles on it (it now has 138,000) and it’s one of those things that you become more aware of as you get used to the car. It definitely seems to be a resonance issue and getting the engine and transmission mounts, and exhaust mounts, throughly checked seems a good place to start.

Post #406402 9th Apr 2021 10:56 pm
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Tigertim



Member Since: 23 May 2016
Location: Doncaster
Posts: 124

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Zermatt Silver

Ahh I’m always glad when someone else revisits this topic that has had me have many sleepless nights trying to figure out what causes this incredibly annoying vibration at 1800 rpm . Been messing on cars for 30 years and like to think I can sort most things but after spending hours and hours and a small fortune trying to pinpoint the problem I’m convinced it is something in the auto gearbox ,my brother has a manual same year as mine and it’s smooth as silk but I have 2007 and 2009 autos and both suffer the vibes .. Does seem to be autos around 2007 to 2010 that suffer . The last thing I will try just to eliminate it when the weather gets better is to remove the transfer box and drive it for a week without see what difference is . I was hoping something would go bang to find the answer but after thousands of miles it’s never really got worse but still very annoying ..

Post #406453 10th Apr 2021 10:44 pm
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Simon J



Member Since: 27 Jul 2019
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 695

2008 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Auto Rimini Red

Good point about a possible connection to the auto box- my friend's Mitsubishi is manual and the problem simply doesn’t arise. But there are lots of models of cars that use this particular engine/gearbox combination that don’t seem to have a problem.

Very odd!

Post #406454 10th Apr 2021 10:50 pm
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Simon J



Member Since: 27 Jul 2019
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 695

2008 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Auto Rimini Red

A further thought - might it be the alternator or auxiliary drive belt? It has to be something that is directly related to engine speed.

Post #406456 10th Apr 2021 11:42 pm
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Billsy



Member Since: 09 Dec 2013
Location: Mid Sussex
Posts: 175

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Auto Tonga Green

I have a 2007 auto that has had the slight vibration at 1800rpm for the two years that I have owned it. Seems more noticeable between 3/4 and 4/5 As you say it goes away when driving harder as the gear change point is higher in the rev range.

I don't want to spend money trying to change parts or having gbox work done as the value of the car is not worth it and it runs perfect apart from the slight vibes. Many people have had lots of work done and still have the same resonance/vibration.

Mine was bought with 132000 on the clock and is now at 144000, it hasn't got any worse and I've got used to it. I'm sure it will be fine and remain the same until the end of the cars life...........

Post #406551 13th Apr 2021 7:30 am
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Simon J



Member Since: 27 Jul 2019
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 695

2008 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Auto Rimini Red

It does seem incredible, however, that something so commonly experienced cannot seemingly be identified, if not cured. Very odd.

Post #406560 13th Apr 2021 10:41 am
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