Still have turbo issues and would like some advice before trying something new.
Have had issues with the variable geometry part of the turbo sticking due to soot etc. Have cleaned that best I can and it appears to operate smoothly when manually operating the linkage. However I am still getting the P2562 code and reduced performance. If I stop and clear the code with a cheap obd reader, I can drive off again no problem.
My thoughts are, the turbo actuator motor could be faulty due to trying to operate a sticky turbo.
I still have my old turbo, which was changed due to failed bearings. This has the original actuator motor still attached.
Can I swap the motors over to see if that fixes the issue, or does it need to be programmed in?
If it needs to be programmed in via SDD could someone tell me how.
Thanks

Forgot to mention its a 2009 SD4  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Last edited by gasman on 19th Mar 2021 5:37 pm. Edited 1 time in total

You can change the actuator module without any coding needed. A faulty actuator normally allows you to get to about 1,800 rpm then it goes into limp mode. Easy enough to change from underneath!

Thanks Dondiddy.
I'll change it and see what happens.
Hopefully weather is better tomorrow.
Will follow up with a post after I have tested it.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Just as a side note, I can accelerate hard and easily reach 3 or 4k rpm. The problem is more apparent when accelerating gently on an uphill stretch of road. Don't know if that would make a difference. Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.

Hi,

I have the same problem, did you manage to fix yours? I'm stuck for any ideas other than changing the turbo.

Regards Ashley

Hi Hozby

My problem appears to have been the Variable Geometry part of the turbo sticking due to carbon build up. I think I have fixed it but because of lockdown I have not been able to go on any long runs. On the travels I have done it appears to be trouble free.

This is the short version of what I did.
First off jacked up front car and secured on axel stands.
Remove the small crossmember that has 4 10mm bolts to give more access.
Disconnect middle joint of exhaust and disconnect from turbo, move to one side and hold with bungy so as not to strain O2 sensor wire.
Disconnect actuator leaver from motor, being very careful not to lose the 'C' clip

You now have to clean the inside of the turbo.
Items you require one tin of Mr Muscle oven cleaner, the top off a large WD40 can that has the big head with long straw.
replace the nozzle of the Mr Muscle with the one from the WD40.

Put on protective gloves and glasses as oven cleaner is not nice stuff to get on you.

From under the car position the straw from the the oven cleaner through the vanes on the turbo, you will not be able to see but you can feel it.
Squirt the oven cleaner into the turbo until it appears at the turbo mouth.
Withdraw the can and place a rag into the turbo mouth to keep the cleaner in. Let it stand for 20 minutes.
Get back under and move the actuator arm up and down to loosen the sooty deposits and help the cleaner to work.
Remove the rag and fill it up again.
Repeat three or four times. Do not rush.
After the last fill let it stand for an hour.
Remove the rag and wipe away any excess cleaner ( not from inside the turbo, just leave it ) pay particular attention to any alloy components as these will corrode.
Re assemble every thing being careful not to loose the actuator 'C' clip. Tip tie a piece of cotton thread to it so you can find it if its dropped.

Once all assembled, start the car and let it idle for at least 10 minutes.
While it is warming up place something like an old dust sheet or tarpaulin on the ground behind the exhaust tail pipe. ( I forgot this part )
Get back into the car and briefly floor the accelerator a couple of times. then leave to idle and check what has been ejected from the exhaust pipe.
Do it a second time and see if any more has been ejected.
If all is clear turn off car lower it back to the ground and take it for a drive. When it is safe and legal give it some hard acceleration.
Try and work through the rev range in different gears, this will make the VG part of the turbo work.

That's what cleared mine after trying all sorts of commercial turbo cleaners that failed.
Hope this helps you. If it does please post a reply as it could help others.  Now at the point when I learn something new something old is lost out the other side !
Now retired so it doesn't matter anymore.
Freelander now gone.