Hi All

If any of you electrical gurus can point me in the right direction I would be very greatfull !

Servicing the haldex on my new to me Freelander 2 TD4 2010 Gen 4 Haldex. My question relates to the resistance in ohms of the pump.

From searching this and other forums and reading advice at Haldex specialist websites, it seems the resistance of a good working haldex pump fitted to the Freelander 2 ( live and ground ) should be between 5-8 ohms.

I can not find much actual information where this reading is obtained from. Most posts I have found seem to be a quote rather that an actual reading

However there is a lot of information on other owners sites ( mainly VW, Audi, Skoda etc ). The experience there seems to dictate that most people get a reading of around 2.2 - 2.5 ohms at the connector.

After a thorough cleaning and examination of my pump, I am getting 2.4 ohms at the connector and 6.2 ohms across the brushes. The brushes seem in good condition with little wear. Signs of wear on the armiture, but nothing too severe ( IMHO ). The pump seems to run well when connected directly to a 12v battery ( though not under any load ).

Does this sound right? Should I get 5-8 ohms at the connector?

I have little experience with dc motors and resistance. The wire from the housing to the connector is about 250mm long and aprox 0.8mm gauge wire. Not sure if it is an original unit on my car as I have no history relating to the haldex pump. The wire seems too long???? Car has done 150k, so suspect it is not original.

It would be a pain doing this job twice in quick succession, so I do not want to put it back together and refit to find I have a failed pump in the near future. I had no ( noticable to me ) problems before removing the haldex. I have read of haldex / diff failures shortly following replacemenyt or service though.

A new pump is circa £240.

Anyone have any opinions ( other than just buy a new pump for peice of mind, as things are a bit tight at the moment ! ).

Thanks in anticipation

Quote:

I had no ( noticable to me ) problems before removing the haldex

In my book prevention is better than cure........why put it back together if the pump is in early stages of failure?

I get that but it was working fine before....
Its not too big a job to remove it again if a problem occurs in the future. I know what I'd be doing with it. Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

The Haldex module, when the pump is working, is drawing up to 3 Amps. Spike to 3 Amps, then settle to about 2.5 Amps.
Do the math based on Ohms law. About 4-5 Ohms.

But I don't get what you mean by "I am getting 2.4 ohms at the connector and 6.2 ohms across the brushes"...
The connector is mirroring the brushes inside the motor...

Thats what i thought Alex.
However I have measured the continuity along the connector wires and resistance and find both the same.
BUT I am defo getting a higher resistance at the brushes than the connector, hence my original post.
I am wondering if the slight pressure on the brushes of the multimeter probes is causing the difference.
I have thoroughly cleaned the brushes and comutator and the brushes are not sticking in their guides, so am at a bit of a loss.

For sure an imperfect contact from time to time between the multimeter probes and the points of measure / brushes.
If the carbon brushes are OK and pressing firmly upon the collector and the motor is working every time is powered up, then there is no motive for worrying.
If there was a problem, then for sure the Haldex ECU, during time, would have caught it and stored an error.

I decided today, following advice here and on other forums to just reuse the existing pump as is and put the haldex back on the car. I do not fancy tackling a rebuild with a kit like this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Haldex-AOC-Gen-...1438.l2649

as I don't think my soldering skills are up to the job!

I would like to compare the readings that I have obtained to those of a brand new original item pump, to see how they compare.

Took the car off road after the refit, and am happy to say no strange noises and I am defo getting 4 wheel drive.

No DTC's either, so all is looking good.

I will update this thread if there are any problems in the comming weeks.

Thanks to all who have hepled and offered opinions