Thanks Paul,

Manual downloaded, thanks.
Here are some pics:


Inlet manifold with seals in place - I used the originals having cleaned them up with carb cleaner.


Here's an injector (nozzle end) with o-ring and retaining clip in place.


Extracting the rail and injectors left some of the o-rings and retainers in the injector holes. Easy to pull out with some suitably bent coat-hanger wire.

In trying to clean out the head injector holes with a Dremel, I dropped the cleaning tool in the hole!!! Could have been an utter disaster but managed to extract using a neodymium magnet (cannibalised from a box with magnetic catches) glued to coat-hanger wire.

I replaced the fuel rail yesterday and the engine fired up as before - huge relief until I noticed fuel spewing everywhere.

Today I replaced the fuel rail inlet o-ring. Also, I lost an injector o-ring (head side) during disassembly and used an undersized replacement. I have replaced both of these with LR original parts.

However, I can't believe fuel would spew from the head side of the circuit which presumably is under -ve pressure. The rail side is 55psi plus, but the original o-ring looked in good condition.

Is there anywhere else that fuel can leak from?




Do you know if this component can leak fuel? Pretty sure it was from towards this end but at the time switching off the engine was a priority to stop fuel going everywhere!

Thanks,
Chris

Chris,

Those are great pictures.

You are correct any large leak is from the rail side or a cracked injector housing.

The fuel pipe that attaches to the rail has an O-ring and spacer

LR000525

LR002512

you should use new parts for these two.


As for the Torx cap at the end of the fuel rail that's a cap to gain access to the rail to measure fuel pressure.

If you didn't touch it I would assume that you leak is coming from somewhere else

Thanks

Paul

Paul,

The fuel system is now sealed and the engine running. I replaced the fuel rail inlet o-ring but I suspect it may have been the rail end cap which i have since tightened.

I have not replaced the bleed hose, but I did manage to get the old o-ring out to change it - see pic - using 4 needles to hold the plastic grips back so I could pull the grey (gray) clamp off. Fiddly but effective. You can see the state of the old o-ring.

So job done, in no small part due to your excellent guidance for which I am most grateful.

All the best,

Chris

Chris,

Congratulations, that is great news.



Replacing the O-ring in the Coolant bleed tube is for advanced technicians only.

Which is why I didn't make the O-ring replacement the primary recommendation.


Clearly you want to take the RED Pill



With that in mind you should make sure that the O-ring material is compatible with engine coolant (Ethylene Glycol)

https://www.marcorubber.com/o-ring-chemica...-chart.htm

The good news is that most O-ring materials are compatible





After confirming material compatibility you should also confirm Temperature compatibility.

For reference a 50/50 Water Ethylene Glycol mixture under 15 PSI (Fill cap has a 15 PSI pressure relief valve)

125 C is the boiling point (and 15 PSI won't stop the phase change from liquid to gas)

The O-ring material should be capable of 125 C

https://websealinc.com/technical-info/o-ring-temperature-guide/





Thanks

Paul

PS Welcome to the Land Rover Experience

Click image to enlarge