Yes I've still got my 07 reg Freelander Diesel 100.000 mile in now.
I use a company 4x4 for most of my work so the freelander only covers 2000 miles per year.

Today when driving over the hills and motorway 100 mile round trip,

At between 1800 to 2200 rpm the engine was lacking power, juddering, Feel like fuel starvation, But drive through it and pulls like a train above 2200 rpm. Between 1800 to 2200 rpm the engine is black smoking slightly. No ECU lights.

Revs through the revs on Idle with not excess smoke. all oil levels etc OK

I haven't reset the throttle body yet, Or changed the fuel filter. or checked the turbo linkage.

Any advice welcome where to start first ??

Ah the 1800rpm judder... currently in same boat and been working on a list from the various threads on here.

I thought my PTU and Gearbox oil flush had fixed it, but no cigar.

Also done, with no change:

Crankshalf Sensor
Haldex Service
Rear Diff Oil
EGR blanked off
Check Throttle Body gears for stripping

My 'Cheap' List To Do:

New MAF (probably not the issue, but it's ancient, should get a new one anyway)
New Accelerator Pedal (sensor can get dodgy in them)
Remove Swirl Flaps
Grease Turbo Actuator Arm
Pulleys/tensioner on Aux belt (talk of alternator pully causing engine vibration)
Check Enging Mounts
Check wheel bearings (would think this would be speed based instead of revs, but some claims it was the culprit)
Check for gearbox software updates

Some posts on here of the below solving the problem, but the $ signs are putting me off thinking about them and I'll live in denial for as long as i can by driving in Sports mode to stay out of that rev range when going up hills:

New PTU
New Rear Diff
New Turbo
Too much play in the Driveshafts/Propshaft

Last edited by Grue on 22nd Jul 2020 10:00 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Symptoms sound similar to a problem I've just had.Though my symptoms progressed to poor cold starts with no power and trying to pull away at lights etc.
Basically no power between 1500 and 2000 rpm.
If your quick you may be able to get it cleaned out by something like a Terraclean but mine was to far gone so I had to have mine changed.

The EGR valve.

Thanks for all the advice.
I reset the throttle valve, No better.
Checked the Turbo linkage all good and working.

Back to basic checks. Found that the top Turbo hoses from the inter-cooler Split
(Engine block side, hence why I missed first time I checked )
Replaced both bottom turbo inter-cooler hoses, Inter-cooler out let side very tight on space
All back to normal, Freelander 2 with power again and no Juddering Fixed for under £30.00

Excellent! In terms of replacing all the hoses, can it be done without removing anything else from the car or do you need to strip parts out to get to the hoses? Asking as I may try this myself. Learned to drive in 2011.
Bought a Micra - great little car
"Upgraded" to Kia Sportage - hated it
Proper upgrade to FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental

Congrats on finding a fix!

Was the split in the turbo>intercooler, or the intercooler>throttle body sections?

Fantastic news, could you share the replacement parts numbers and their website with us please? MY2014 HSE Santorini Black

Found both pipes on E-bay £29.90 , Plenty out there, as below should help ? Came in two days.
LAND ROVER FREELANDER 2 2.2 TD4 INTERCOOLER TO MANIFOLD HOSE PIPE KIT LR066429

It was the smaller pipe witchs fits to the throttle body witch was split, witch was tight to fit to both to down pipe and throttle body.

The inter-cooler pipe was OK but I replaced it as it's just as old, but it' a pig to replace. Lifted car on Axle stands, Engine tray off, OSF head light removed, OSF bumper clip loosed and pulled clear approx 2" to gain access to the jubilee clamp,
(Long 1/4 drive extension, 7 mm needed)
If you have chunky arms good luck

Make sure new pipes and clips fitted in the right place and lined up correctly, before final tightening.
Approx 2.5 hour for all the work. Approx 45 minutes for just top pipes.

Wax-oiled Engine cradle, body, under wheel arches, everything you don;t see etc before refitting Engine tray etc

Nice job JP... unfortunately those 2 pipes I've already replaced recently - solved my lack of power and wooshing sound, but not the 1800 judder. I'll keep looking though.

And yeah, easy to go into that job thinking "couple of hoses, 4 hose clamps.... easy 20min job to switch them out". Just another inch of room behind that radiator fan and the job would be so much nicer.

Last edited by Grue on 26th Jul 2020 12:59 am. Edited 1 time in total

Hi JP,

Thanks for the detailed how-to, before I jump onto eBay can you just clarify if these were your car’s symptoms....?



I’m slowly digging through different threads to see which particular thread relate to my issues. MY2014 HSE Santorini Black

Those RPM variations and behavior is, from what I've observed on my car, characteristic to an slight EGR malfunction. Possibly because wear and tear.
I've solved the problem by partially blocking the EGR, with a blank plate having a 6mm diameter hole in it. You may try it, as it's not so expensive, from any point of view.
I may have blank it totally, as my ECU wont mind, but yours need that hole, because your, later generation, ECU could thrown and error if you totally blank it.

Hi Alex, thanks for the reply,

Are the symptoms in the video above well documented as a degrading EGR?

Is there examples of long term EGR modifications like this that have worked? Would a new ERG have the same effect albeit much more expensive?

 MY2014 HSE Santorini Black

EGR is a self learning / auto adjusting device.
During time, it tries to compensate for the modifications induced in gases flow by the wear and tear and soot deposits. But if those are too great, it cant compensate.

Also a big piece of the puzzle is the WBO2 sensor, which in the case of a diesel engine is directly tied to the EGR operation.
And we know that the O2 sensors are considered to be a serviceable item with a limited lifespan. About 100.000 km (60.000 miles) or more.

For me the above works, until I will take more permanent actions.
Again, it's so easy and cheap to try a (partial) blanking plate and to see if it solves or improves the problem...

I have just been on a 300 mile trip to family over the last few days and todays trip back was very interesting.

The car behaves exactly like the video above when pulling away from junctions, it has the same noise and rev counter fluctuation, when warm, but never when cold.

After hours of driving i realised it actually does this in any gear at any speed but only at 1600-1900 revs. The only reason i didn't realise it its because the road and wind noise, I found a very smooth part of the M4 which allowed me to test it, I honestly didn't want to believe it but its true.

Either side of this RPM is lovely and silky smooth.

So what does this mean?, the problem is constant (but very very subtle) at those revs and when the engine is warm, Has any one else reading this tested the higher speeds at that rev range? This is new information that I have not read before. MY2014 HSE Santorini Black

On auto cars you need to differentiate between RPM fluctuations due to TCC engagements and other kind of RPM fluctuations.
In the video above some of the fluctuations are because of TCC (torque converter clutch) engagements, which when granny driven are exactly in that RPM range, especially on third gear.