Hi JP,

Thanks for the detailed how-to, before I jump onto eBay can you just clarify if these were your car’s symptoms....?



I’m slowly digging through different threads to see which particular thread relate to my issues. MY2014 HSE Santorini Black

Those RPM variations and behavior is, from what I've observed on my car, characteristic to an slight EGR malfunction. Possibly because wear and tear.
I've solved the problem by partially blocking the EGR, with a blank plate having a 6mm diameter hole in it. You may try it, as it's not so expensive, from any point of view.
I may have blank it totally, as my ECU wont mind, but yours need that hole, because your, later generation, ECU could thrown and error if you totally blank it.

Hi Alex, thanks for the reply,

Are the symptoms in the video above well documented as a degrading EGR?

Is there examples of long term EGR modifications like this that have worked? Would a new ERG have the same effect albeit much more expensive?

 MY2014 HSE Santorini Black

EGR is a self learning / auto adjusting device.
During time, it tries to compensate for the modifications induced in gases flow by the wear and tear and soot deposits. But if those are too great, it cant compensate.

Also a big piece of the puzzle is the WBO2 sensor, which in the case of a diesel engine is directly tied to the EGR operation.
And we know that the O2 sensors are considered to be a serviceable item with a limited lifespan. About 100.000 km (60.000 miles) or more.

For me the above works, until I will take more permanent actions.
Again, it's so easy and cheap to try a (partial) blanking plate and to see if it solves or improves the problem...

I have just been on a 300 mile trip to family over the last few days and todays trip back was very interesting.

The car behaves exactly like the video above when pulling away from junctions, it has the same noise and rev counter fluctuation, when warm, but never when cold.

After hours of driving i realised it actually does this in any gear at any speed but only at 1600-1900 revs. The only reason i didn't realise it its because the road and wind noise, I found a very smooth part of the M4 which allowed me to test it, I honestly didn't want to believe it but its true.

Either side of this RPM is lovely and silky smooth.

So what does this mean?, the problem is constant (but very very subtle) at those revs and when the engine is warm, Has any one else reading this tested the higher speeds at that rev range? This is new information that I have not read before. MY2014 HSE Santorini Black

On auto cars you need to differentiate between RPM fluctuations due to TCC engagements and other kind of RPM fluctuations.
In the video above some of the fluctuations are because of TCC (torque converter clutch) engagements, which when granny driven are exactly in that RPM range, especially on third gear.

Right, so the sound on the Video is the TCC? as that is the exact noise im experiencing.

why would that only happen when warm and not cold? and why would that coincide with a slight hesitation?

Thanks MY2014 HSE Santorini Black

I found the the engine was doing it in any gear from around 1,800 to 2,200 revs, But would drive through it.

Only hope to help,
The Mass air Flow meter (MAF) reads the Mass of air coming out from the Air filter box, plus measures the temperature. As the air passes through the Turbo and is compressed (it takes on some of the heat from the turbo) Thus it goes through the inter-cooler to be cooled. (it.s all to do with air particles at different temperatures)
The Throttle body I'm sure also reads the temperature and the pressure,(boost pressure) The ECU then works out the correct fuel ratio, timing etc to give the Engine (For the power load required, traction control and Emissions control etc)

If any air(boost pressure) is loosed between the turbo and throttle body (split pipe, hole on in damaged inter-cooler) The Throttle body will give the wrong information to the ECU to what the MAF meter is giving. Thus shutting down the fuel system on and off.
For all this to happen it takes a second or so to catch up, Thus Juddering through the revs. (Auto will be slightly different as explained above.
Hence why mind smoked under load, just before it Juddered. shut down for a split second.

Juddering is a control fault from the ECU being given wrong information from any of the lots of sensors on the cars Can-bus system, From witch one and why ??
But this should not be mistaken for a bearing, clutch or in-balance on the drive line fault ??

For Help info ??
Black smoke = wrong air to fuel mixture, to much fuel not enough air (Boost pressure if turbo) or damaged injectors or fuel pump lack of compression etc etc.

Gray smoke = Burning Oil in the system some where. Valve seals, turbo seas, compression, head gasket etc etc .

White Smoke = water in the system, Head gasket etc etc

None starter = Knackered Freelander.

@DGL
That sound is a surge sound heard from the turbo, when the ECU reduces the torque for the gear change and in the same time opens a little the EGR to dump the excess intake pressure into the exhaust. Yes, you've read correctly, the air flow through the EGR pipe is designed to flow in both directions, depending on the situation...
Video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=49&v=Rr5Hl2r4Rq4

Also check the free movement of the turbo lever, as poster of that video you keep referring solved the issue by lubing the lever.

@alex

Thank you , that’s brilliant, I’m beginning to understand this a little better.

I’ll buy the stainless steel EGR plate with the hole in the middle, do you recommend gasket seal for it?

And are there any particular eBay sellers you can recommend? MY2014 HSE Santorini Black

Don't know...
I, for one, used a 2mm thick PTFE "blanking plate", through which I drilled a 6mm hole.
PTFE is easier to drill, heat resistant, oil resistant and enough malleable to act like a gasket itself.

Thanks Alex, I’ll get on with both this and the turbo arm link and report back the findings.  MY2014 HSE Santorini Black

Bit of an update, I inspected the actuator arm today, it was free and moving quite well. I greased it anyway and worked it in. I took it for a road test and the first 30 mins were hesitation free, I thought id fixed it. After a quick stop I set off again but the hesitating problem is still there, although there is no Turbo Flutter anymore? But I would say the amount of hesitation is reduced just by greasing the arm.

I aslo had the EGR reducer plate turn up in the post, so i fitted that. I noticed how gummed up the inlet was, I cleaned it as best as i could and fitted the plate.

Road test was interesting, it felt like a better drive, and the occurrence of the hesitation was much, much less. Probably 50% less.

So a question would be, By fitting the plate, will the performance and hesitation likely improve over time, or should the placement of the blanking plate provide an immediate change that won't improve with time?

Thanks MY2014 HSE Santorini Black

Immediate improvement and possible more during time, time when the EGR system is (re)adapting to the new conditions.
At least this is how it was in my case.

First 30 mins were the heat up period, during which the system is using slightly different maps.

Hi Alex,

Thank you for your information, fingers crossed it will improve.

During the greasing of the actuator arm I took this video.



That noise is the throttle body shutting down is that correct?

It can last as long as 10 minutes.

That’s why when I was checking the actuator the pitch of the throttle body changed?!

Is that normal? MY2014 HSE Santorini Black