Thanks again. I don't believe the end of the bolt has enough thread there to clean.

This is the start of a body repair which will involve replacing the wing and driver's door after a side impact.

I spoke to the repair shop who will be doing the work in August, explaining I was making a start and was told to 'just leave it'. They like to remove stuff themselves so they know how it goes back. "There's always a way around jammed bolts" they said, "Don't worry".

So I've put it back together again.

Thanks very much for all the replies - what a lovely bunch!

Last edited by Flanagan on 4th Jul 2020 3:07 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Threads on my metal screws were completely gone.... got some new metal bumper screws with nuts and drilled a couple of new holes in the plastic in appropriate spots. All easy and while might have looked pretty rough to the Mrs who wanted to know why i was drilling holes in the car, turned out just fine.

Went plastic nuts again as easy to undo by hand.

Simple way is remove plastic nuts refix using star lock washers
Great for fixing the heat shields underneath when the alloy gives up and the hole is enlarged

gasman wrote:

Scrap the old plastic nuts, clean the threads as others have said and fit some new stainless steel flange nuts. That's what I did with mine and have had no bother since. Put some copper slip on the thread before putting the nuts on.

The local supplier MM 4X4 told me that LR insist the head of the bolt (RYG501390) must be welded to the frame so I can't see how it can be replaced without welding equipment. Cleaning up the threads and replacing nuts with ss seems most sensible.

Mild steel bolt plus stainless steel nut in a nice moist position equals even more corrosion due to dissimilar metals causing electrolytic corrosion. I’d rather use plastic nuts.

yes - I would be concerned with galvanic/electrolytic corrosion also.... I have seen this well in effect on Series ones where dissimilar metals can cause big issues & concerning corrosion

I think I would stick with new plastic nuts - after all how often will these need to be removed in the general run of things? 2014 Freelander 2 TD4 Manual Dynamic
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover
1956/7 88" Series One Land Rover - undergoing restoration

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Last edited by Flanagan on 4th Jul 2020 3:16 pm. Edited 1 time in total

jules wrote:

I ... cleaned the threads .. with a die turned by hand.

No mate. I used a M6 x 1 die. M6 bolt is 6mm in diameter. M12 is 12mm in diameter.

The others have a point about galvanic corrosion with stainless nuts on mild steel bolts - but the plastic nuts didnt do a good job either. Rock and a hard place I think. Jules

PRadd wrote:

yes - I would be concerned with galvanic/electrolytic corrosion also.... I have seen this well in effect on Series ones where dissimilar metals can cause big issues & concerning corrosion

I take the point about galvanic corrosion (didnt really think about it at the time) and have ordered some black M6 nylon nuts (25 for £3.95) Jules

jules wrote:

No mate. I used a M6 x 1 die. M6 bolt is 6mm in diameter. M12 is 12mm in diameter.

The others have a point about galvanic corrosion with stainless nuts on mild steel bolts - but the plastic nuts didnt do a good job either. Rock and a hard place I think.

Flanangan - yes thats the die I used from my set of taps & dies.

The bolt has a thread a bit like a tap so its will cut a thread in a blank nylon nut.

Not sure sure how the local dealers thinks a M6 nut will fit on a M12 bolt though  Jules

M6 x 12mm long perhaps?