Did you see the engine running before you bought it?

Hi I had similar problems with my grand voyager and it was bad fuel rail pressure sensor.

If you have a bad fuel rail pressure sensor, the ECU won’t send the right amount of fuel to the engine. This will make it difficult to start your vehicle. When this problem first occurs, it will probably take a couple attempts cranking the engine before it starts. But as the problem gets progressively worse, it will take more and more attempts to start. Eventually, the engine won’t start at all. its worth a check is your Engine warning light showing on dash??

"Not even a hint of running. It's as if the injectors aren't actually firing"

Have you tried putting a flathead screwdriver on top of each injector (with the handle next to your ear) while the car is cranking. If the injectors are firing, you will hear a faint ticking sound from each injector, transmitted by the shaft of the screwdriver.

If you don't hear a faint ticking sound from each injector?? Do you hear the fuel pump buzz for a few seconds as you turn the ignition to the “on” position. from inside the car or back by the fuel tank, the pump may be dead ??

@Landymanstan, the electric pump in the tank has nothing to do with the injection system, it merely transfers fuel from one side of the saddle tank to the pick point on the other side!

@Voyageofdiscovery, if either the crankshaft position sensor or the camshaft position sensor is faulty, the injectors will not fire.

@Mowog, not going to argue the point re cracking injector lines, I grew up on a farm & have also been doing that for as long as I can remember. Having been advised not to do so on modern CRD systems, I tend to take notice of real experts. (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Last edited by Badger51 on 18th Mar 2020 10:43 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Hmmm.
I did it last week on mine.
Left fuel filter off for a few hours and assumed the reason it wouldn’t start after renewing the filter and filling it
could have been air in injector lines etc.

After trying to start it for quite a few times, I resorted to cracking off injectors, waiting for diesel to show one at a time
then it started ok.

Pipes re sealed ok after tightening, I wouldn’t like to put easy start anywhere my engine....

Maybe I should have called Landrover assist instead?

Badger51 wrote:

@Landymanstan, the electric pump in the tank has nothing to do with the injection system, it merely transfers fuel from one side of the saddle tank to the pick point on the other side!

@Voyageofdiscovery, if either the crankshaft position sensor or the camshaft position sensor is faulty, the injectors will not fire.

@Mowog, not going to argue the point re cracking injector lines, I grew up on a farm & have also been doing that for as long as I can remember. Having been advised not to do so on modern CRD systems, I tend to take notice of real experts.

@Mowog, I've come across quite a few in my fifty years in aviation. A lot of them I wouldn't let work on your wheelbarrow!  (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Yes, every time I hear about a real expert I think....oooooooo yes my Land Rover dealership is full of them.

Badger51 wrote:

@Landymanstan, the electric pump in the tank has nothing to do with the injection system, it merely transfers fuel from one side of the saddle tank to the pick point on the other side!

@Voyageofdiscovery, if either the crankshaft position sensor or the camshaft position sensor is faulty, the injectors will not fire.

@Mowog, not going to argue the point re cracking injector lines, I grew up on a farm & have also been doing that for as long as I can remember. Having been advised not to do so on modern CRD systems, I tend to take notice of real experts.

Voyageofdisovery wrote:

Apologies for my first post being a request for advice guys - I'm usually over on the Disco 3 forum but my son has a problem with his Freelander 2 (Diesel) and I thought "Go to the guys who know!".

He put it through the local Ford (in the river not a Focus!) but the water level was up higher than usual with the floods and he hydro locked it. fyi: Didn't get stranded in the water, he rolled out the other side behind the transit that had just done exactly the same thing!

So, bought a nice low mileage engine and put it in, but although it turns over it won't start on the vehicle fuel supply. Will fire up happily on easystart direct to inlet.

Fuel getting to the high pressure side but something is stopping it getting through to the fuel rail.

fyi: Have swapped the crank sensor for the one from the old engine (as understand these have to be matched to the ecu) but still no fire up.

Any thoughts oh great ones?

Guys I'm so sorry for the slow reply, it turns out the notifications of your posts were going to my spam folder. Son also very frustrated with it so went off to see girlfriend for a couple of days

In answer to questions:
No. engine was not heard running but came from a relatively trustworthy source and the vehicle was seen with its damage to the rear end, engine bay intact. It runs happily on a drop of easystart. I know the fables around easystart but it didn't hurt for a few seconds just to check it runs if the fuel system is bypassed.

There are no fault codes. Admittedly I do not have access to a dedicated LR code reader so something MIGHT be popping up that isn't a standard code and isn't being read.

No engine lights on the dash.

Have swapped out both the crank and cam sensors as a Land Rover 'expert' (might be the guy you met Mowog!) advised they are paired with the ecu so put the originals onto new engine after it didn't start.

I will look into the fuel rail pressure sensor - though I would have thought it would throw up an error code (see above!).

I think there might still be air in there. A LR mechanic I know said (once I got hold of him as he's in isolation!) that Freelander2's are a mare to restart if the fuel system has been de-pressurised. LR released a special tool to bleed the system - apparently.

Will try again tomorrow. Thanks for the feedback!

I only suggested cracking off the injectors as I had the problem on mine after doing the fuel filter last time.

Done it a few times previously on this car without problem.

However last time I was a bit slow refitting the filter and thought this could have led to the problem.(previously I always changed the filter within a few minutes)

it took the best part of half an hour trying to get it started, bleeding the injector pipes.

God knows how you are supposed to make it go otherwise.

They are not that difficult to bleed/repressurize......see below:

Voyageofdisovery wrote:

Guys I'm so sorry for the slow reply, it turns out the notifications of your posts were going to my spam folder. Son also very frustrated with it so went off to see girlfriend for a couple of days

In answer to questions:
No. engine was not heard running but came from a relatively trustworthy source and the vehicle was seen with its damage to the rear end, engine bay intact. It runs happily on a drop of easystart. I know the fables around easystart but it didn't hurt for a few seconds just to check it runs if the fuel system is bypassed.

There are no fault codes. Admittedly I do not have access to a dedicated LR code reader so something MIGHT be popping up that isn't a standard code and isn't being read.

No engine lights on the dash.

Have swapped out both the crank and cam sensors as a Land Rover 'expert' (might be the guy you met Mowog!) advised they are paired with the ecu so put the originals onto new engine after it didn't start.

I will look into the fuel rail pressure sensor - though I would have thought it would throw up an error code (see above!).

I think there might still be air in there. A LR mechanic I know said (once I got hold of him as he's in isolation!) that Freelander2's are a mare to restart if the fuel system has been de-pressurised. LR released a special tool to bleed the system - apparently.

Will try again tomorrow. Thanks for the feedback!

I also use a bulb, but on the outlet side, sucking fuel into the filter and out into a small jar
I then reconnect the outlet pipe and it starts straight away.

However, last time I got called away before I finished the job and when I returned, primed the filter and tried to start,
it wouldn’t.

That’s when I spent 30 minutes trying to start, eventually cracking the injector nuts in turn to get it going.

THE LANDROVER METHOD OF CONNECTING THE BULB ON THE INLET TO THE FILTER IS PROBABLY THE BEST WAY

This I assume would fill the fuel rail and injector pipes ?

Last edited by Mowog on 19th Mar 2020 11:10 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Hi again as Mowog has suggested a known problem with bleeding see
This video shows how to bleed the diesel system on a Land Rover Freelander 2

[url] [/url]