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kris-p



Member Since: 12 Nov 2015
Location: VIC
Posts: 120

Australia 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Fuji White
Accessories required to fit a towbar

I know this topic was covered many times, however, I wasn't able to find an exact answer to my question.

I can get a towbar for a reasonable price from wreckers. My car is a 2008 SE model, and I was wondering:

1. What wiring do I need?
2. Somewhere on this forum, I read that the towbar electronics for my model need to be activated by the dealer, otherwise it won't work?
3. Can I remove the wiring from the wrecked car to use it on my or is it too complicated and better to buy a new one?

Any other tips would be appreciated.

Post #387323 29th Feb 2020 10:42 pm
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jules



Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 4569

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

Your JLR dealership should be able to look up using your VIN to indicate which wiring accessory you need for your car.

Then Id do a on-line search.

To my knowledge there have been at least 3 different add-on looms for the FL2 depending upon its MY, but Im talking UK spec here.
The earliest one was the most complicated to install and required dealer activation. The very last one was a simple plug-n-play system. Jules


Last edited by jules on 1st Mar 2020 12:50 am. Edited 1 time in total

Post #387333 1st Mar 2020 12:45 am
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jules



Member Since: 13 Dec 2007
Location: The Wilds of Warwickshire
Posts: 4569

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Firenze Red

For example Island 4x4 indicate 4 different OEM wiring looms (inc relays & fuses as required)

https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/accessories-b..._3664.html Jules

Post #387334 1st Mar 2020 12:49 am
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Largered



Member Since: 10 Jul 2016
Location: UK
Posts: 1978

This is a youtube video of how to fit the bar, not electrics.


Sorry, no sub-titles.
.

Post #387335 1st Mar 2020 12:59 am
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Badger51



Member Since: 01 Mar 2014
Location: Coffs Harbour
Posts: 912

Australia 
Re: Accessories required to fit a towbar

kris-p wrote:
I know this topic was covered many times, however, I wasn't able to find an exact answer to my question.

I can get a towbar for a reasonable price from wreckers. My car is a 2008 SE model, and I was wondering:

1. What wiring do I need?
2. Somewhere on this forum, I read that the towbar electronics for my model need to be activated by the dealer, otherwise it won't work?
3. Can I remove the wiring from the wrecked car to use it on my or is it too complicated and better to buy a new one?

Any other tips would be appreciated.


You need to find a pre facelift wreck with genuine LR wiring (aftermarket is often more of a pain to remove), it will be easy enough to remove, as long as it hasn't been cut etc & make sure you get all of it, including the module & the steel mounting tray + nuts etc.

The electrics will work (as far as I'm aware, mine do & I haven't got around to editing the CCF yet) without being activated in the CCF but the dash warning won't work & the reverse sensors will still be active!

Cheers,

Nick (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Post #387337 1st Mar 2020 8:00 am
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Simon J



Member Since: 27 Jul 2019
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 695

2008 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Auto Rimini Red

I fitted a tow bar plus electrics to my 2008 FL2 last year so my experience might help. The genuine LR cable harness is no longer listed although you can find it online at some dealers. It’s about £180 as I recall. I bought a cable harness from PF Jones for about £120 and it plugged into the appropriate sockets in the car's wiring loom. Out of the box, everything worked, apart from switching off the parking sensors, including the trailer warning light and switching off the rear fog light. As I had a Mongoose cable, plus the JLR software, it was easy to add the trailer module which solved the parking sensor issue. Whether the JLR cable harness will be as functional without adding the trailer module via software, I don’t know.

The photo shows the installation in my car, but before I fed the cable through the boot floor to the towbar.



As the cable harness just plugs into the existing wiring it should be straightforward to remove it from one vehicle and fit it to another, but it would need to be from a pre 2012 car to work with the electrics in your 2008 one. As far as I could determine, there were only the two types although each type might be available in 13 pin or 2x7 pin configuration. Of course, you need to check whether the cable harness is a genuine one, i.e it comes with the proper trailer module. If it isn’t, then you can’t be sure what you’re getting.

Post #387347 1st Mar 2020 12:21 pm
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Simon J



Member Since: 27 Jul 2019
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 695

2008 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Auto Rimini Red

You would also need to extract these fuses from the fuse box in the boot which are supplied with the cable harness.

Click image to enlarge

Post #387349 1st Mar 2020 12:59 pm
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Simon J



Member Since: 27 Jul 2019
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 695

2008 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Auto Rimini Red

Hmmm ... that fuse diagram seems to be at odds with the one from the LR fitting instructions

Click image to enlarge

Post #387372 1st Mar 2020 7:26 pm
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ozjeff62



Member Since: 28 May 2018
Location: Sydney, NSW
Posts: 494

Australia 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 SE Auto Ipanema Sand

The two diagrams are the same, just rotated 90 degrees. MY11 SD4 SE Auto

Post #387413 2nd Mar 2020 12:33 pm
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Simon J



Member Since: 27 Jul 2019
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 695

2008 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Auto Rimini Red

Doh! I hadn’t noticed that part of the box wasn’t shown in the first picture!

Post #387421 2nd Mar 2020 2:27 pm
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Simon J



Member Since: 27 Jul 2019
Location: Norn Iron
Posts: 695

2008 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Auto Rimini Red

For info, fuse FA9 (15 amp) is for pin 9, constant 12v, referred to by LR as 'battery' in the trailer socket; FA11 (the square green 40 amp fuse) is for the trailer module; and FB5 (15 amp) is for pin 10, ignition switched power, referred to by LR as 'accessory feed for fridge' in the trailer socket.

Post #387480 3rd Mar 2020 6:57 pm
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kris-p



Member Since: 12 Nov 2015
Location: VIC
Posts: 120

Australia 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Fuji White

Thanks everyone for comments, and thanks heaps to Simon for a great info! That's exactly what I was looking for.

The wrecked car I am planning to get the bar off is a 2010 model, so it should be OK (mine is 2008).

Thanks again!

Post #387771 7th Mar 2020 5:41 am
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