Purchased a frellander 2 2010 as a non runner.

so far have replaced cam belt (old one had 6 teeth missing)
water pump
diesel filter
set up timing
primed hp pump
cranked over with compression on all four cylinders but will not start
other threads indicate using quick start do you just spray it in the air box to test if it will run

thanks

Spray it into the ducting after the airbox. Get someone to crank the engine whilst spraying it.

Have you checked for fault codes?

Have you primed the fuel filter? It will not start if you haven't

When you use the spray if the timing is set up correctly the motor will kick over but not run for long. It will also be pretty coarse but least you will know that the timing is right. Priming the fuel system can be a real bastard, particularly if it hasn’t run for a while. The best way I found to get mine going was using a brake fluid suction kit that you attach to an air hose and I used it to drag the fuel up from the tank into the filter and then attached it to the return line from the common rail and drag the fuel through the whole system. I had tried to use a hand priming pump
prior to this but despite there appearing to be fuel in the lines there still must have been a fair bit of air in there and the car just wouldn’t start.

Thanks for the reply's

it would not start, think better start from scratch

checked timing using the correct locking pins all ok.
bit stuck now as to do a compression test do i remove glow-plug and get an adapter for my gauge or remove the injector and get adapter

thanks

Maybe a stupid question, but do you know why it was a non runner in the first place?
Does the previous owner know what went wrong with it or what the circumstances were when it stopped running, may give you a clue where to look or what to concentrate on?
Have fault codes been read? Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

my scanner shows no fault codes.

The history is drove through a puddle about 50mm deep and died. Was fully working before that . Well that's his story. After charging the battery on cranking their was pressure in the air box, so timing was amiss. Close inspection cam belt teeth missing.

replace cam belt/water pump set up timing. Crank rotation feels ok ie:four compression. Primed diesel system but will no start.
attempted again using easy start but no go. My be best now to do compression test but do not have and cant find online adapters for glow plugs or injectors for my tester

Try a new crankshaft sensor, A good known make not one off e bay.

Was it 7 teeth in a row or random ones that the belt was missing??
I would be a bit nervous that there could be damage to the valves if the timing was out. How long did you spray the aerostart into the inlet manifold for, I found 3 to 4 second bursts usually gave some sort of result.

yes the missing teeth were in line. I gave it several bursts of quick start and even removed the intake tube and sprayed it in, but no luck. So it down to a compression test I think my best option is removing the glow plugs but still can't find an adapter/gauge for this

Hi

Sorry to read of your problem, if the cambelt lost has lost six consecutive teeth (that's a good inch or so) then it will most likely have caused some form of internal damage, such as bent valves although some Diesel engine the cam lifter arms On the tappets are designed to bend or snap (not sure on this engine) to prevent valve damage perhaps someone on here with more in depth LR knowledge will know. I would do a compression test or take the valve cover off and check the tappets are all working correctly with not damage and check that all the valves have full travel up and down when turning the engine over by hand. Hope you get it resolved soon.

Last edited by AJ918 on 18th Jan 2020 4:35 pm. Edited 1 time in total

did a compression test
cyl 4=16 bar
3=16 bar
2=12 bar
1=12 bar

seems a bit odd

any thoughts ???

Engine was clearly hydro-locked. I think the head needs to come off as it is likely to have piston/valve damage.
But Im only speaking from limited experience when my son trashed my diesel engined Skoda driving slowly through a flooded road which was a lot deeper than he thought. Got a new engine on insurance. Jules

For us old timeres that 232 and 174 psi there should be no more than a maximum 10% variation between any two cylinders you a a variance of 25%.

As said previously you have most likely got damaged valves and possibly pistons, the cylinder head will need to come off to see the extend of the damage unless you have a inspection camera there are several on eBay that you can incert via the glow plug aperture to,see what has happened, but the head will have to come off at some stage for repair.

thanks for the info

have got as far as cam box cover off.
measured the height of each valve all seem the same.
so its head off tomorrow.