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Garyc.LR2



Member Since: 27 Jun 2011
Location: Abu Dhabi
Posts: 37

United Arab Emirates 2008 LR2 i6 HSE Auto Narvik Black
LR2 AC / Heater Fan Blower Motor Resistor

Hi

Can anyone please advise on my ac problem. Last year the ac stopped working and I ended up having a replacement engine radiator fan installed at 750 gbp from main stealer! (Detailed on other thread) Unfortunate and very expensive but necessary here when it is 45 degrees here in middle east.

Anyway once again its the height of summer and I've got a cooling problem. The AC is cold but has very limited power as the fan blower will not operate at high speed. It was suggested to get the gas refilled but it didn't change anything, the temp coming out is cold but in daytime the fan strength just isn't enough. A mechanic has now suggested it is the blower motor resistor however I am unable to find too much info anywhere on the net relating to this issue on the LR2 and the main dealer here does not have one in stock (it will take 2 weeks to get one). Obviously I don't want to order one, wait for delivery and then find it doesn't solve problem.

Can anyone shed any light on this matter please? Am i better off getting a complete new blower motor which i believe has a new resistor supplied with it rather than just the resistor itself. The price for entire motor blower is only a little higher then resistor alone on ebay.

Also are there aftermarket resistors or is only genuine LR available?

Thank you in advance Freel2 Forum users

Post #232373 22nd Aug 2014 6:16 am
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alex_pescaru



Member Since: 12 Mar 2009
Location: RO
Posts: 4640

There is no resistor on FL2.
The fan or fans, depending on car's equipment, are driven by an electronic module found on the back of the radiator, just above the fans.

There are 2 (or 3) connectors on that module. One with 3 wires, 2 thick and one thin, which is the main supply and digital communication and another 1 or 2 connectors with 2 wires which go to each fan.
You can test the fans by removing their connectors from the module and supply them directly with 12 volts.
If all checks OK, then it's the module.

Another empiric test is to touch the compressor's output pipe and feel/measure its temperature.
The picture below is from a diesel one, but you may be able to identify yours, starting from the compressor.
I am talking here about the pipe before the condenser.

Its temperature, when AC is functioning, should not be higher than aprox. 60 degrees C. Meaning if you put your hand on it, you should be able to keep it there for at least 5 seconds. If it's much hotter than that, then you may have an undercooling problem.

Post #232393 22nd Aug 2014 9:00 am
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The Road Toad



Member Since: 02 Mar 2010
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 280

England 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Narvik Black

We had a problem where the engine cooling and AC fans behind their radiators were not working.
After several garages suggested replacing the fans, their motors, the control module etc I found the answer on this forum.
Alec has described the wires that are connected to the fan control module and the purple Pulse wire was broken inside its sheath.
This wire carries the electrical pulse that prompts either fan to start or stop.
The pulse wire looked totally normal but about 5 cms back from the module it had broken. Tattoos - Why would you choose to look like the wall of a public toilet?

Post #232400 22nd Aug 2014 9:47 am
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Garyc.LR2



Member Since: 27 Jun 2011
Location: Abu Dhabi
Posts: 37

United Arab Emirates 2008 LR2 i6 HSE Auto Narvik Black

Thank you for the replies very helpful.


The fans behind the radiator are working - i have already experienced this problem in the past so that was the first place I checked.

Alex - It appears that indeed there is a resistor on blower motor see http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291153668498?ssP...1423.l2649 also LR Main Dealer has given me a part number 19A70t


Anyway I will let you know what the solution is when it has been resolved


Last edited by Garyc.LR2 on 23rd Aug 2014 5:42 am. Edited 1 time in total

Post #232427 22nd Aug 2014 4:28 pm
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Garyc.LR2



Member Since: 27 Jun 2011
Location: Abu Dhabi
Posts: 37

United Arab Emirates 2008 LR2 i6 HSE Auto Narvik Black

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2008-Land-Rover-LR...mp;vxp=mtr

Detail of fan motor blower with resistor

Post #232431 22nd Aug 2014 5:26 pm
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alex_pescaru



Member Since: 12 Mar 2009
Location: RO
Posts: 4640

Sorry, my English has played me some tricks...
Indeed, you said blower motor and I was thinking about the radiator fan's motor...

On the last two posts.... Again, that is not a resistor.
What you've posted in the first ebay link (and second) it's the blower motor's electronic control module and its cooling radiator. It's a small ECU that receives a PWM signal from AC system and drives the blower motor.
So my answer stands, there is no resistor on FL2 climate control system.

Post #232497 23rd Aug 2014 12:04 pm
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Garyc.LR2



Member Since: 27 Jun 2011
Location: Abu Dhabi
Posts: 37

United Arab Emirates 2008 LR2 i6 HSE Auto Narvik Black

Thank you for the info Alex. It appears that some advertisers are confusing the terms.

Regardless I have found a complete fan blower motor http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2008-Land-Rover-...3f1249c3b0
and wondered if there is any difference between the fan motors used on different LR2 engines. IE is a fan blower motor from a TD 2.2 TD4 able to be used on a 3.2 HSE i6?

Post #232672 25th Aug 2014 7:13 am
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alex_pescaru



Member Since: 12 Mar 2009
Location: RO
Posts: 4640

The catalog is giving the same part no. for both diesel and gasoline, LR002685.
http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/1497...blower_fl2
But I really don't know what to say...
Are you sure it is that? Meaning when you turn the fan speed knob, is the speed increasing and decreasing accordingly?

Post #232673 25th Aug 2014 7:51 am
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Garyc.LR2



Member Since: 27 Jun 2011
Location: Abu Dhabi
Posts: 37

United Arab Emirates 2008 LR2 i6 HSE Auto Narvik Black

Alex

At present the fan speed is low regardless of whether or not it is turned up on to high. The radiator fan is working, the ac is cold albeit rather powerless due to fan blower not working.

I will place an order using the link you sent for brit-car and see if this solves the problem... Thank you again for the help and advice

Post #232695 25th Aug 2014 11:50 am
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Garyc.LR2



Member Since: 27 Jun 2011
Location: Abu Dhabi
Posts: 37

United Arab Emirates 2008 LR2 i6 HSE Auto Narvik Black

Problem identified and resolved by replacing the following part.

http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/1497..._fl2[/url]

Post #234148 8th Sep 2014 7:11 am
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Fletcher



Member Since: 29 Dec 2010
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 25

How did you replace the part ? How do you tell if it's the fan or the resistor that needs replacing ?

Post #289752 8th Feb 2016 9:51 am
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dunkley201



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Post #289770 8th Feb 2016 12:22 pm
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Garyc.LR2



Member Since: 27 Jun 2011
Location: Abu Dhabi
Posts: 37

United Arab Emirates 2008 LR2 i6 HSE Auto Narvik Black

I didnt personally fix it (couldnt) it was done at a garage who informed me it involved a lot of time consuming removal work to get to the required location. I believe them as used them before fo AC related matter including changing of condenser (dash board removal for that one!). The Main Dealer wanted approx 5 times more than i ended up paying for this resistor change! Good luck

Post #289781 8th Feb 2016 3:37 pm
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Garyc.LR2



Member Since: 27 Jun 2011
Location: Abu Dhabi
Posts: 37

United Arab Emirates 2008 LR2 i6 HSE Auto Narvik Black

Some electrical test by-passing the resistor I believe identified that it was causing the problem

Post #289782 8th Feb 2016 3:38 pm
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Fletcher



Member Since: 29 Dec 2010
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 25

Took out glovebox and air duct to reveal the heater control module. Hard to see its at same height as radio but at the metal wall that separates the engine compartment from the cabin. Checked voltage on the 4 wires (2 fat) and could see a healthy 12v. Then took off wiipers and surrounding trim to reveal blower. If I spun it manually (mind your fingers) then it would spin for a minute or so before stopping. Concluded need new blower but heater control module is ok. Shame as my diy skills aren't up to this job so Auto electrical in Aberdeen are doing the job for £400

Post #290653 16th Feb 2016 11:42 pm
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