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Mike2165



Member Since: 09 Sep 2019
Location: Peterborough
Posts: 15

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto Lago Grey
Battery current

Morning, would anyone the the current draw on the battery when the car is off? Twice in two weeks the battery has drained in 36-48 hours. I've put a meter on the new battery to see what changes when I remove after market equipment (towbar electrics, tracker, etc) but there's no difference in the reading. I did have an ODB reader permanently connected, but removed it after the first drain. I read on her that the modules hold charge, but these were disconnected when the battery was off (for a couple of hours at least) so I'm assuming the hard reset is done.
Anyone had similar experiences?

Post #383330 28th Dec 2019 7:58 am
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SYFL2



Member Since: 16 Jun 2012
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 2542

2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

Think I’ve read on here about the blue tooth not turning off.

Post #383331 28th Dec 2019 8:31 am
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Lightwater



Member Since: 21 Aug 2014
Location: Sydney Northern Beaches
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Ukraine 2013 Freelander 2 2.0T SE Auto Fuji White

How old is the battery? Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Post #383335 28th Dec 2019 9:56 am
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Bobbyg



Member Since: 04 Dec 2016
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 214

England 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 S Manual Indus Silver

Hi there's been massive coverage of the battery drain problem,there is a long shut down time on this car.always double lock the car,I added a supply line to the battery from the grill with a weather proof plug when the battery is completly flat.if you search the site these even a chart to covering the shut down readings .
Bob

Post #383346 28th Dec 2019 11:45 am
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axle



Member Since: 11 Sep 2016
Location: South Yorkshire.
Posts: 1039

England 2007 Freelander 2 i6 HSE Auto Santorini Black

Lightwater wrote:
How old is the battery?



Morning, would anyone the the current draw on the battery when the car is off? Twice in two weeks the battery has drained in 36-48 hours. I've put a meter on the new battery to see what changes when I remove after market equipment (towbar electrics, tracker, etc) but there's no difference in the reading. I did have an ODB reader permanently connected, but removed it after the first drain. I read on her that the modules hold charge, but these were disconnected when the battery was off (for a couple of hours at least) so I'm assuming the hard reset is done.
Anyone had similar experiences?

Laughing Common sense isn't very common.
_______________________________
2007 Land Rover Freelander2 I6 hse Auto

Post #383348 28th Dec 2019 12:11 pm
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I Like Chips



Member Since: 25 Jun 2017
Location: Ascott Under Wychwood
Posts: 1417

United Kingdom 2011 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Indus Silver

Any Use?

Click image to enlarge

Post #383351 28th Dec 2019 12:50 pm
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Lightwater



Member Since: 21 Aug 2014
Location: Sydney Northern Beaches
Posts: 4704

Ukraine 2013 Freelander 2 2.0T SE Auto Fuji White

Have you got an electronic anti rust device installed. LR tried to flog one of these to me when I bought the new car.

They are a scam from decades ago!

They constantly draw a small current. Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

Post #383422 30th Dec 2019 6:30 am
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phil_h



Member Since: 29 Dec 2019
Location: Builth Wells, Wales
Posts: 10

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

Hah! Just amended the title of my recent post to add 'flat battery' ! https://www.freel2.com/forum/post383415.html#383415

When everything goes right, the quiescent current drain is about 10-20mA.
If something has not shut down properly it can be around 4A. Anyone can do the math for how long an 80Ah battery will last if that stays constant.
I will be testing mine again shortly to confirm the current drain while the dreaded whistle is going.

Post #383429 30th Dec 2019 9:31 am
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Mike2165



Member Since: 09 Sep 2019
Location: Peterborough
Posts: 15

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto Lago Grey

Thanks everyone, that helps. The 'old' battery was bought in September, so I've had that replaced, it could've been a duff battery. But I'll keep an eye on it.
J7

Post #383434 30th Dec 2019 2:27 pm
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phil_h



Member Since: 29 Dec 2019
Location: Builth Wells, Wales
Posts: 10

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Stornoway Grey

I Like Chips wrote:
Any Use?

Click image to enlarge


That is a _very_ interesting table... and as an electronics engineer, it prompted me to google a bit more.
This is a LRJ 'battery care manual' and it has a modified version of that table at the end:
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepair...esting.pdf
and an interesting and, to me, utterly horrifying quote is:
Quote:
NOTE: The preferred method of testing following an excessive current consumption figure is to use the clamp of the
ammeter around individual junction box leads to the various suspected circuits to identify a potential cause. Rather
than the old method of pulling fuses out, in a one after another fashion.
The main reasons for using the current probe to determine which junction box/ circuit the drain is going through are:
1 Many modules take a considerable time to power down, every time a fuse is removed and re-fitted, the quiescent
drain figures will need 45 minutes to reset.
2 Sometimes the drain is caused by a module ‘holding on’ to something that has been switched off. sometimes it
is only a relay winding that is activated. Pulling the fuse can allow this to ‘reset’ and the drain will be lost and go
undiagnosed. Similarly for example, the headlights of a Jaguar S-Type are switched on, removing the switch
input will not turn them off. Therefore, the reading obtained would be incorrect and misleading.


I am horrified because it is an admission that there are serious bugs inside the software that they cannot be bothered with.
The bottom line is that any of the modules could potentially stay on and draw several amps (eg headlights at 5A each = 8 hours to a flat battery).
The solution is astonishingly simple (I've written CAN-bus software routines that do this) - never let the software assume everything is ok and periodically send round the current on/off levels etc.
Then you turn a disastrous bug into an annoying 'glitch'.

Post #383503 31st Dec 2019 10:47 am
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