all winter my car runs great, as you know we have had a few nice days recently. on my drive home from work about a mile in, i have a down hill section that is throttle off. when you come back onto the throttle if the outside air temp is above say 15 degrees the car stutters almost as though it had stalled before power coming back.below this magic temp all is good. It can do this anywhere but appears to be mostly from running under no load then using accelerator again
any suggestions on the fault??
Thanks Nick

Ok I read the 19 pages and the throttle pedal page
so my 2013 xs manual has this problem, so many conflicting bits of advice
how do i find out if im on the latest software ? will this help or not?
should i change the throttle pedal and fuel filler cap?
will a fuel filter change help?
is the egr valve a culprit ??

on a slight side topic how do you force a dpf clean cycle?

I must admit for such a dangerous fault (not being able to join traffic cleanly in a rush hour scenario) im shocked at jlr's lack of positive response, to hear of people selling their fl2's because of this is sad, im not in any financial situation to even consider changing my car let alone send it into the stealers to be looked at with only a maybe scenario of a possible fix for a problem they are reluctant to even admit.

Hi,

My 2014 SD4 did the same thing last year. I did the usual change the fuel filter fix, no different. After a bit of internet research I tried an additive in the fuel :

https://www.powerenhancer.co.uk/archoil-ar...e-639.html

It certainly made the car engine smoother, especially at small throttle openings. Incidentally I tried a few tanks of super diesel but it only made a marginal difference. I now fill up with the occasional tank of super diesel but mostly I still use supermarket fuel as I always have but with another additive :

https://www.powerenhancer.co.uk/archoil-ar...hesis.html

I know using additives is a snake oil type thing and I was very sceptical that it would work, but for me it did.

Living in the south of Snowdonia most of my journeys are a reasonable length, I.e. Supermarket 15 miles each way and a trip to the DIY store is a 100 mile round trip, so things shouldn't be clogging due to short trips.

Incidentally my previous 2007 Freelander did over 100k before I sold it all on supermarket fuel and never showed any hesitation or jerkyness, perhaps the newer models are more critically set up due to the DPF and lower emissions.

Cheers
Tony

If it's temperature dependent then quite likely the hesitation problem.

Fuel filler cap replacement did little for me.

EGR replaced early on, gave some relief but problem came back.

Recently had another part replaced (forget which one but can check) after being able to reproduce with a technician, which I have struggled to do in the past. Dealer stated the problem was fixed, which it was for a few miles, and I was hopeful, but problem returned on the way home.

Surprisingly not affected too much recently with the warmer weather but sure I will be. I also find if I sit with my foot on the brake in drive for a minute or so, I get the hesitation when pulling away. Also if the car has been sat in the sun, I get the hesitation when first pulling away.

My view is the throttle pedal fix likely corrects the general lack of power issue when pulling away. I can't see how it relates to the hesitation issue originally reported in that thread.

If I get it again this year, I'll take it back in, since it's under extended warranty, but am reaching the point of considering changing it since it's now 8 years old, and have no desire to shell out for the 10 year service.

Could be the camshaft/crank sensor? I've seen a fair few posts saying replacing this relatively cheap part stopped any stuttering. Learned to drive in 2011.
Bought a Micra - great little car
"Upgraded" to Kia Sportage - hated it
Proper upgrade to FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental

Not sure if this helps, I had prior to the FL2 a Vauxhall Antara 2.2 manual gearbox 2WD this suffered from 11,000 miles from stuttering similar to the description here, every time I took it to VX they said nothing wrong, they even did a forced regen of the DPF (a big issue with the Anatara)
I suspected the EGR valve and after three months of badgering them they replaced it, from then on I never had an issue and it drove very well. The EGR valve being mechanical will probably play up and not throw any codes, I would think that may be the issue?? 2014 Freelander 2 XS TD4
Firenze Red

Having had a 2011 model with the hesitation issue the dealer got LR support involved and "recalibrated the airflow system" which seemed to help. The dealer also told me at the time that they had three other cars with the same problem. Some time later I had LR Assist out for a different problem and mentioned the hesitation issue and he couldn't find any relevant codes but did the recalibration again which took just a few minutes.

I was under the impression that the hesitation issue was only on early 2011 models, just after the facelift when a DPF was introduced. if yours is a 2013 then it is quite a different beast as it's got all of the Evoque systems in it. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

I have experienced the stutter/cough/hiccup for about 6 months. Initially I couldn't pin down any pattern as to when it happened.
Having asked my local Indy to service and sort it, he changed a very expensive part on the air inlet side.
Drove it home and suffered the same problems on the way. Took it back the next day and handed my keys over telling him to use it and find the cause. A week later he called telling me he had found some 'chaffed' wires.
It ran OK for a week!
This was just before xmas and I now needed the car but I told him I would return it a couple of weeks later when I had time off and again and didn't need it.
During the time I persevered with it I started to notice certain points in my regular journey where it would sometimes cough. Decided that if it was a manual, it would be where I would be changing up after pulling away.
Passed this onto my Indy then after a couple of days I got the call.....
Crank sensor faulty!
Had it back about 6 weeks now and it hasn't missed a beat since.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the input everyone. I've made notes and will feed it back to my mechanic if I need to.

Having been through this on our 2011 manual model but nothing on the 2014 SD4 auto I suspect that the fault happens when a combination of circumstances occurs in which case, and since it's an obsolete vehicle, we have to accept that it's never going to get fixed. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

My 2011 MY Auto FL2 had this problem which occurred, now and again, only in the summer, and when going from a light throttle up a hill at town speeds.
I thought at the time it was hesitation in my Autobox engaging 'clutch lock up' but dorsetfreelander seems to disprove that.

I have no similar problems with my 2015MY Auto FL2, although one (and only one) particular slope in Langport does make my turbo actuator flutter. (nowhere else!!)

PS I have just noticed from my 'sign off note' below that I have completed 100,000 miles in FL2s. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)