Thanks all. Didn't know the -ve and the earth were the same thing on cars

Thanks

You need to hold the multi meter probes down to get a correct reading host laying it on will give a false reading

I would have a look at your starter motor.
Contacts in the solenoid give up the ghost slowly and give the exact symptoms you describe - press the button - click
Changed starters on both of my previous FL2’s

I am sure that you are showing a false reading. As a previous post said, hold both probes and make sure they are pushed against terminal to get a good connection.

Even with a duff battery you should be reading over 14v with the engine going.

Did you check for any error codes, they should give you an idea as to why the car did not want to start.

Did you switch the ignition off, or lock the car, to force a reboot of electronics, when you first had the problem. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 82k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

Thanks for all the replies and advice. My car started and got me home tonight, before I set off I changed the multimeter setting to 200V and I got readings that you would expect, 11.9V with the car off and somewhere around 14V with the engine running. I must have had multimeter on the wrong setting.

I will clean up all the terminals tomorrow and I am on the forum now looking up adding a secondary earth strap.

Joedenise wrote:

You need to hold the multi meter probes down to get a correct reading host laying it on will give a false reading

IanMetro wrote:

Did you check for any error codes, they should give you an idea as to why the car did not want to start.

Did you switch the ignition off, or lock the car, to force a reboot of electronics, when you first had the problem.

I think Ian meant error codes from an OBD reader.

If they are your reading then your battery is k ed

What is the setting below 200V? it should be 20V, which is fine for reading the battery. 11.9V is way to low, should be around 12.4 when the car is "awake".

A really useful gadget is a cigarette socket volt meter, you can check what charge your battery is getting whilst on the move, only cost a few pounds too.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-Digital-LED-...SwCrtcaoSw 
Hung like Einstein, smart as a horse.

Oh you sod now I want one of those and it lights up blue

I have something similar which reads voltage of the vehicle, but also has two USB charge ports and when charging it cycles through the vehicle voltage and the current draw of whatever is plugged in for charging, quite interesting.......unfortunately I cannot find the link I used for purchase now. Regards

David

Lovely i6 has now gone, but not me......

Please let me know if anything in my post offends you, as I may wish to offend you again......

I use this adaptor.
It displays voltage and has a switch which allows me to switch off/on any connected gadgets easily (to reset if necessary)

Unfortunately this supplier has run out, but similar are available.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B075YF...&psc=1 FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 82k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 11th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

shiggsy wrote:

What is the setting below 200V? it should be 20V, which is fine for reading the battery. 11.9V is way to low, should be around 12.4 when the car is "awake".

A really useful gadget is a cigarette socket volt meter, you can check what charge your battery is getting whilst on the move, only cost a few pounds too.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-Digital-LED-...SwCrtcaoSw

I prefer this  (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Now that would be nice!