My 3.2 i6 is automatic. This is my first automatic car. At my age I'm finding I need avery comfort I can get and driving in traffic since I've had it (2 weeks) has been a breeze.

Now, at this point I should mention that I've sometimes joined forums and used the name Dumb Tony - you may think I should have used that her when I ask my question.

OK! My handbook tells me that I shouldn't leave the car in drive, with my foot on the brake, for "long periods".

What's a long period?? What's the correct protocol at traffic lights - sit with it in drive using footbrake or handbrake on - go to neutral etc.

Really sorry if this does sound dumb!!

Would really appreciate a tip from someone who's used to driving an automatic.

Cheers.

RR

Last edited by Rangerider on 8th Mar 2009 6:47 am. Edited 1 time in total

Welcome, and not a dumb question. I subscribe to the view that the dumbest question is the one you don't ask !!!

I don't think you'll find any source (Land Rover included) who will put a definitive time to this piece of advice. In the real world I think it's safe to say that 'normal' stops in traffic for traffic lights etc are OK. I think once you get to a couple of minutes then maybe thats the point to put it in neutral. Of course when you stop in traffic you often don't know how long you are going to be stopped for .... The issue is that there can be a gradual build up of heat in the toque converter when you stationary and in 'Drive' for a 'long' time, but I wouldn't get hung up about it.

In relation to handbrake / footbrake I would ask you to consider the driver behind you when stopped in traffic. If you hold on the footbrake the guy behind is getting an eyefull of your brakelights. I would suggest that most auto drivers DO hold on the footbrake, but if you want to show any consideration for the guy behind then the handbrake is best (and is more than up to the job!)

Hope this helps ....  Stornoway Grey GS ... What a fine motor ... but not any more ... ... psst look at my gallery!
Company cars ... a thing of the past - May 2013.

to prevent your brake lights dazzling the fellow behind, turn on your rear foglights that way the brakelights will be the least of his problems  At work
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Make sure you don't accidentally press/ use your clutch (foot) - you will be amazed (so will the guy behind) at how fast you stop.

Enjoy the car



Grumpy Grumpy

Rangerider, don't worry it will all soon become second nature and you'l find it more relaxing than a manual! However, it may be an idea to tuck your left leg back under your right so as to ensure you don't use it accidentally as Grumpy says!

You will find that once you get used to driving it you will know when to ease off slightly on the right foot to encourage the box to change up as you want. The LR2 box is actually pretty good at downshifting to slow you without necessarily having to brake - provided you anticipate the road reasonably well and lift off the right foot.

As Avtur says don't worry too much about 'how long' - you'll probably be bored of keeping the brake pedal pressed before the auto box heats up too much!! (Before then I'd expect the cooling fans would be flat out and the temperature gauge rising towards red). Note that the LR2 auto box requires you to apply the footbrake when engaging D from N if you stop (at the lights or in a queue) select N and apply the handbrake. I find this is not as convenient as other autos (where you simply drop it into D and take off the handbrake to move forward in a slow-moving queue) - but it does prevent D being selected accidentally, I guess.

I find that a lots of people hold their cars on the footbrake causing dazzle to those behind not just auto drivers - but I agree that we should remember they can be an annoyance for those behind.

Rangerider wrote:

What's a long period?? What's the correct protocol at traffic lights - sit with it in drive using footbrake or handbrake on - go to neutral etc.

OK RR, sit up and pay attention. Put that chewing gum in the bin and stop looking out of the window; it won’t make playtime come any faster.

The whole point of an automatic is to relax and let the motor do the work for you. This results in lower stress and a more relaxed drive. Worrying about the box is unnecessary and a total waste of your time.

I’ve found, through experience of several automatics (even a big numb Volvo 6x4) that the only thing you need to do is look after the ATF level, like you would any other check item. That has the biggest impact on performance and durability. I can also say that despite any amount of expensive scare stories, I’ve never had a moments trouble with any of the automatics I’ve had barring simple adjustments of Kick-Down cables etc which is a simple service item.

Now here’s the neat bit with an auto’ They are ace for quick, clutch wear free, getaways from the lights. What you do is cover the footbrake with your left foot and rev the engine until it’s straining against the brakes. Then when you get the green simultaneously floor the gas and let the brake off. WARNING: Repeated use of this technique will invalidate your warranty.

OH and make sure you are first in the queue

The only reason our FL2 isn’t an auto is economy and Lady Hooky III’s dislike of them. I love ‘em! Also available in Clean.

Hooky wrote:

.....barring simple adjustments of Kick-Down cables ....

Showing you age their Hooky  Stornoway Grey GS ... What a fine motor ... but not any more ... ... psst look at my gallery!
Company cars ... a thing of the past - May 2013.

avtur wrote:

Hooky wrote:

.....barring simple adjustments of Kick-Down cables ....

Showing you age their Hooky

Er, yep. Probably a sensor thingy now I'm betting that nerver ever needs any adjustment.  Also available in Clean.

Never mind just covering the brake pedal with the left foot at the lights etc. Brake with the left foot all the time and when you have got used to it (for 30 years in my case) you can go into a corner with as much throttle as you require to keep up the speed and hit the brake with the left foot to get the back end to step out and round you go much quicker than the conventional method. Especially useful on gravel tracks when off-roading and absolutely essential in the old days when driving a Morris 1800..
For further info go on to U tube and look at any footage of Ari Vatenen in his prime.

Bill Turner Life Honorary Member of Wallasey Motor Club.
Licenced MSA Radio Operator for 35+ years.
Rallying is the only sport.

I have a question and thought this might be the right thread to tag it on to.

A hot topic at the moment is the problem with accelerator stick at Toyota .

So my question is:

What are the effects/consequences of slipping an automatic into Neutral at speed and do you need to touch the brake pedal to achieve it? 09 HSE Auto Lago Grey/Almond Napoli. Privacy glass.

Put the car into neutral after a few seconds, not a few minutes as you will just put extra strain on the gearbox and brakes as the car is trying to set off all the time it is in drive.It makes your brake light bulbs last longer as well. Stornaway grey SE auto with 18" alloys

I `d like an auto myself but they always seem slow and slightly hesitatnt at pull off compared to a manual

its not a sports car so your not going to get super fast take off unless your EV and have a FL2 sports

But in the event that you do want to go that little bit quicker off the mark, left foot break, raise revs to 2000 and release the brake, make quite a big difference, but can stress the drivetrain if over done or too often Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

The Laird wrote:

So my question is:

What are the effects/consequences of slipping an automatic into Neutral at speed and do you need to touch the brake pedal to achieve it?

Freelander22se wrote:

I `d like an auto myself but they always seem slow and slightly hesitatnt at pull off compared to a manual

Not the only thing. Have you met my wife?  Hi Darling, I'll be home in 10 mins. If I'm not back, please read this message again...