Forum-Gallery-Shop-Sponsors

« Advertise on Freel2.com

Home > Technical > Removing EGR valve and cooler
Post Reply  Down to end
Page 2 of 2 <12
Print this entire topic · 
Nodge68



Member Since: 15 Jul 2020
Location: Newquay
Posts: 1790

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Rimini Red
Re: FL2 EGR removal

motalink wrote:
Hi, many thanks for posting details on EGR removal on the 2.2 Freelander, Excellent, concise and brief, Just about to sort mine out as still running rough on initial start up, (like a bag of nails)even after renewing all four Bosch exchange injectors, and the induction valve where the gears had almost collapsed and rattling there heads off.
Purchased , in 2020, it's also had a reconditioned differential, new Haldex unit, full timing belt kit, complete service with all oils changed, and finally today a complete new clutch, flywheel , slave cylinder.
I purchased this car as a long life lover of Landrover's, with an ownership history from Series 1, 2, 2A, Defender's and thought this new (to me)Freelander 2 would be great in my retirement, it looks immaculate, but i was so wrong, it spends more time in my garage for repairs at 109000, this surely should not be the way our Landrover Mark should be going.
PLEASE PLEASE LANDROVER, START COMPETING AND GETTING SERIOUS RELIABILTY SCORES ON all your range as i fear you are loosing many potential customers both here in the UK and on our Export markets
WE deserve to be purchasing reliable British brands as Landrover used to be in times gone by!


Has the ECM been coded with the new injector codes?
Have the glow plugs been replaced?

Mine starts up on 3 cylinders, which I'm putting down to a sticking exhaust valve sticking when cold.

The Freelander 2 is supposed to be more reliable than any modern Landrover, and there's an element of truth to this, although I think the Freelander 1 was more tolerant to missing maintenance, except where tyres are concerned. The Freelander 1 definitely didn't kill it's rear diff in short order, or suffer PTU failure, without a cause, so in that respect, the Freelander 2 is worse.
However the Freelander 2 is 10 times more complicated than its early namesake, so in reality, the Freelander 2 isn't too bad. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.
Hyundai Ionic 5 Ultimate on order.

Post #404807 4th Mar 2021 11:35 am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Balderick



Member Since: 10 Apr 2021
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 10

England 2011 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Indus Silver

Hi, new to the form and many thanks for the EGR tips! I have restricted engine performance and a sensor 1 high temp error. I have bought a new EGR as after 117000 miles it is game on for anything, so hopefully following your advice I can crack the over heating of the exhaust gases and get my performance back. Bow down

On the plus side, even with restricted performance it drives smooth and cruises comfortably at 60.

I have seen a brilliant post on YOUTUBE from Sandy Anderson which does cover testing and once installed getting the car to recognise a new EGR valve is fitted. Also he does mention how a low battery drives FL2's insane. My battery tests at 12.56V so according to the Haynes book of lies is low. 12.6V is adequate and 12.7V good. I can get a HDC fault when the car is fired up on a cold morning.

Any advice would be welcome.
Cheers

Post #406444 10th Apr 2021 9:05 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Pedro



Member Since: 01 Apr 2010
Location: Very near Pig Hill
Posts: 449

England 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Galway Green

I did my EGR valve a couple of months back:

No need to drain the coolant as you will only lose a mug full at most.
No need to jack the car up.
Also, no need to remove the O2 sensor as you can manoeuvre the heat shield down and past it.
Get a couple of long pieces of 4 x 2 to go from inner wing to inner wing across the top of the engine to lean/kneel on - will save you hours of hassle.

Luckily, my Foxwell code reader had a 'new EGR fitted' function which I spotted on there.

Good luck! FL2 HSE Auto Galway Green
Evoque SD4 Auto Blue.
FL1 HSE TD4 Manual Black - Gone.
RR Classic V8 EFI - Gone

Post #406450 10th Apr 2021 9:46 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
BossBob



Member Since: 30 Sep 2010
Location: Bristol
Posts: 1249

England 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Baltic Blue

Balderick wrote:


I can get a HDC fault when the car is fired up on a cold morning.

Any advice would be welcome.
Cheers

Welcome.
On cold mornings when the HDC fault is likely to occur, I start the car in two stages. After putting the key in the dock I press the start button without pressing the clutch/brake pedal. Wait a few seconds for the various control units to initialise and various pumps (abs and Haldex) to get up to speed, then press the pedal and start the engine. The abs is a big part of HDC so if that isn’t available nor is HDC.

Post #406473 11th Apr 2021 10:42 am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Balderick



Member Since: 10 Apr 2021
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 10

England 2011 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Indus Silver

Hi, I had a HDC start fault. The battery is most likely the culprit. Check You are getting at least 12.5V or the Freelander 2 starting fairy will sulk.

Also worth following some of the earlier forum threads. I cleaned the rear light clusters, tail gate included and also bought a new foot brake switch. At £5.00 for the switch I nearly passed out in Duckworths at a fair price for a genuine part! The positive vibe was short lived as I also put genuine LR brake light bulbs in. Worth it if it works, and it has so a potential quick fix.

The simplest check is a good charge. I had mine on to boost the charge for 24 hours, then got 12.58 V and a happy FL2 starting fairy, no HDC fault.

Note, the Haynes book of lies quotes 12.5V as weak, 12.6V adequate and 12.7 as good.

Post #406661 15th Apr 2021 5:36 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
JackGlendinning



Member Since: 03 Jun 2020
Location: Goudhurst
Posts: 5

England 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 S Manual Orkney Grey
EGR Valve Freelander 2

Hi all

I am mid way through doing this EGR valve and cooler replacement - I have got as far as removing the coolant in/out pipes and the exhaust gas inlet to the EGR

We are really struggling to access the bolts securing the exhaust gas inlet to the back of the cooler (far left hand side when looking from front of car). Does anyone have any tips or tricks for getting to them?

It strikes me that removing the air hose 'elbow' that remains after removing all of the ducting and airbox would give me more access, has anyone managed to access this to remove it?

Many thanks
Jack

Post #408274 25th May 2021 12:17 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Balderick



Member Since: 10 Apr 2021
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 10

England 2011 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Indus Silver

Hi, A late reply but I took off the cam belt cover to get position on the 2 x bolts. A mirror, patience and brand new replacement bolts +gasket is well worth it.
Also make friends with the nearest SNAPON diagnostic owner as the car won't recognise it has a new EGR until you tell it.
Hope yours is running well now.
Cheers

Post #408721 5th Jun 2021 8:39 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Post Reply
Post Reply  Back to top
Page 2 of 2 <12
All times are GMT + 1 Hour

Jump to  
Previous Topic | Next Topic >
Posting Rules
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum



Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
Freel2.com RSS Feed - All Forums


Switch to Mobile site