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Yorky Bob

Member Since: 28 Apr 2015
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 4561

2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Firenze Red

Right now you have ruled out 4WD to your satisfaction. You can either spend more money or let it develop but:

Subframe mountings would be on my list of further cheaper checks.
Steering column to the rack fixing has that been checked for security? Another cheap check / fix.
Rack to body fixings checked (may be rack to subframe on these not needed to look) ?

Eventually you or the car will decide enough is enough and show its hand. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

23rd Oct 2018 5:05 pm

IanMetro

Member Since: 11 Sep 2017
Location: Somerset BS21
Posts: 2761

2014 Freelander 2 SD4 Metropolis LE Auto Fuji White

An extension shaft attached to the right-hand halfshaft is supported by a bearing anchorage arrangement. The bearing anchorage on the diesel and petrol derivatives are of different construction, each designed to support the specific engine torque loadings.

There is one difference between front half shafts. The right hand one has an extra (external) bearing to even up outer halfshaft lengths. It looks pretty substantial, but may be worth checking. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

23rd Oct 2018 5:57 pm

alex_pescaru

Member Since: 12 Mar 2009
Location: RO
Posts: 4640

leftofcentre wrote:
Hard acceleration the front end jumps about and it tries to “walk” down the road.
In other words, the steering tries to snatch right and left, especialy if i let go of the wheel (for investigation purposes).

Now I am sure. Excessive front toe out.
Same happened to me with another car and proved to be the above. Once performed a correct alignment, all problems gone.

23rd Oct 2018 9:00 pm

Lightwater

Member Since: 21 Aug 2014
Location: Sydney Northern Beaches
Posts: 4718

2013 Freelander 2 2.0T SE Auto Fuji White

westville wrote:
It's called "Torque Steer" and is a common problem with transverse engines - this article covers it fairly well (and before anyone points out that our cars are 4 wheel drive - they are in effect 2 wheel drive most of the time)
https://practicalmotoring.com.au/car-advic...or-doesnt/

I have an uphill hairpin turn to get out of my street. I regularly have to floor it to get into traffic & only enough not to spin the inside wheel. Have to give it plenty of lead foot to simply move. Previous car was front wheel drive only & I would have to fight the steering wheel every time. Did this for 18 years. The Freelander simply goes around the corner as if it knows the corner & it's on rails! Procrastination, mankind's greatest labour saving device!

Acoustic insulation ARB TPMS 3xARB air compressors After cooler Air tank On-board OCD pressure air/water cleaning Additional 50L fuel Carpet in doors ABE 2x1kg Waeco 28L modified fridge Battery 4x26ah Solar 120w Victron MPPT 100/20 DC-DC 18amps 175amp jumper plug Awning 6x255/60R18

23rd Oct 2018 9:44 pm

leftofcentre

Member Since: 04 Feb 2018
Location: Bolton
Posts: 32

2010 Freelander 2 TD4 Sport Manual Santorini Black

Solved. Rear Wishbone Poly Bushes failed after 2 months! Dont ever EVER buy this crap for your FL2... Polybush.co.uk aka Bonaprene Products Ltd. £335 for the kit.

Check out the pic.. note centre moulding, which must be bonded in place rather than as one continual pour, has popped out/is missing. Look at the pic of the other side for comparison.

26th Nov 2018 7:15 pm

ben_cds

Member Since: 20 Sep 2013
Location: Kent
Posts: 10

2008 Freelander 2 TD4 SE Manual Stornoway Grey

rubber bushes kit

I think my bushes are on the way out (over 200k miles on the front ones). Very rough over broken roads, very slight 'torque steer', vague steering to one side, super quick to the other

Is there a kit for replacement bushes (not poly), most garages seem to want to replace the lower arm too?

20th Jun 2019 11:00 am

leftofcentre

Member Since: 04 Feb 2018
Location: Bolton
Posts: 32

Just buy the lower arms complete. Remember you pay for what you get so avoid cheap chinese copies. Any good german oem will be fine. Possibly one of the most safety-critical parts of your car. Its an easy enough job to do yourself if you are diy savvy. Have the tracking done afterwards and consider replacing the track rod ends while your at it.

20th Jun 2019 11:07 am

ben_cds

Member Since: 20 Sep 2013
Location: Kent
Posts: 10

probably pushing it here but do you know which part numbers I need (incl track ends)?

20th Jun 2019 12:25 pm

Badger51

Member Since: 01 Mar 2014
Location: Coffs Harbour
Posts: 910

https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/front-su...1812-c.asp (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

20th Jun 2019 12:42 pm

ben_cds

Member Since: 20 Sep 2013
Location: Kent
Posts: 10

Thanks Badger.

Love Coffs Harbour. My first drive through booze shop!

20th Jun 2019 1:35 pm

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