hi guys,
I cannot see anything related so I hope I can get some advice here,
I know I need to buy a new battery and fob but I have a more immediate problem
I was out last night and went to go to the landi and the doors would not open, (dead keyfob batt, not car batt_
so I used the emergency key and got in via passengers side and opened the car.
but when I put the fob in the slot and pressed the stop/start button, nothing happened. the fob was fully in and I ejected it and put in again with still no results, not dash lights and not starting, (yes my foot was on clutch)
I know the battery is dead but would that stop me from starting?
I did get a tow home but need my landi asap.
I put a Haynes and wow and Delphi diagnostic on it but no codes.
any suggestions apart from dead batt?
thanks

and the second spare fob did what ? FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

trev74 wrote:

I know the battery is dead but would that stop me from starting?

I don't have a 2nd fob as the wife lost it several months ago when she lost her bag.
the Battery is new, only about 3 month old and bought from landrover dealership at £225. I took battery to them dealers this afternoon to be safe and they checked it and said nothing was wrong with it, it had a full charge.
I have put it back in car and still same issue.
checked every fuse I can find and all ok.
ive googled the problem but have not found anything usefull

Did the alarm go off when you used the fob key to get into the vehicle ?
Which fuse locations did you check?
You have no electrical signs of life from the vehicle at all ?
Do you have your own multi meter ?

It certainly sounds like the vehicles battery power is not getting to the vehicle, like it got a complete break in the batteries main power or earth cable. 
Hung like Einstein, smart as a horse.

So go back a stage. Do you have any power to anything like lights, interior lights, radio ? FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

The Repair Manual seems to indicate that your key is no longer programmed, or is unserviceable.
I have used the emergency key a couple of times (after leaving it for a long time at Heathrow) in my first FL2, and the car sprung into life immediately the Remote Key was inserted in slot.

Or as Bob says a dead main battery / blown fuse.

Inspection and Verification
The best method to confirm the correct operation of the Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) is to check the LED (located in the center of the instrument panel). The LED should illuminate solid for 3 seconds, when the ignition status is set to ON, and then extinguish. This validates all PATS functions (i.e. the key transponder matches a stored key code, the challenge/response sequence between the respective modules was successful resulting in the EMS being enabled).

Ignition Fails to Operate
Check that the key is correctly inserted into the start control unit (SCU) and that it is the correct key for the vehicle (Key will be ejected from the SCU if it is not programmed or from another vehicle). If the vehicle is an automatic, ensure that the Park position is selected and if manual, ensure it is in the Neutral position. Check that the start button circuit to the Central Junction Box (CJB) is not open circuit or short to ground. Check that the CAN network is not malfunctioning, i.e. open circuit or short circuit. This would mean that the CJB, ECM and Instrument Cluster would be unable to communicate. Check these modules for related DTCs and refer to relevant DTC Index. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

Sorry got called away due to family emergency,
I cannot recall off hand if I had power inside the car, I just wanted home. Im back home later today/tomorrow and will have a look.

Yorky Bob wrote:

So go back a stage. Do you have any power to anything like lights, interior lights, radio ?

I have software to reprogram keys if needed so no issue there hopefully.
im going to check the landi tomorrow and see if I have power in the car, all fuses are intact that I can see but will double check again
main batt is fine and been on a optimizer since I got it home.
I know internal lights come on
Will update tomorrow

IanMetro wrote:

The Repair Manual seems to indicate that your key is no longer programmed, or is unserviceable.
I have used the emergency key a couple of times (after leaving it for a long time at Heathrow) in my first FL2, and the car sprung into life immediately the Remote Key was inserted in slot.

Or as Bob says a dead main battery / blown fuse.

Inspection and Verification
The best method to confirm the correct operation of the Passive Anti-Theft System (PATS) is to check the LED (located in the center of the instrument panel). The LED should illuminate solid for 3 seconds, when the ignition status is set to ON, and then extinguish. This validates all PATS functions (i.e. the key transponder matches a stored key code, the challenge/response sequence between the respective modules was successful resulting in the EMS being enabled).

Ignition Fails to Operate
Check that the key is correctly inserted into the start control unit (SCU) and that it is the correct key for the vehicle (Key will be ejected from the SCU if it is not programmed or from another vehicle). If the vehicle is an automatic, ensure that the Park position is selected and if manual, ensure it is in the Neutral position. Check that the start button circuit to the Central Junction Box (CJB) is not open circuit or short to ground. Check that the CAN network is not malfunctioning, i.e. open circuit or short circuit. This would mean that the CJB, ECM and Instrument Cluster would be unable to communicate. Check these modules for related DTCs and refer to relevant DTC Index.

Don’t these have connectors under the front passenger carpet area? IIRC, these can be easily disconnected. Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.