once that bumper and radiator is removed it really opens up the space to work on everything else, i basically went through and ordered all parts mentioned in this post, plus alternator, rebuild the vaccum pump , map sensor connector is broken volvo part number 30658215 going to replace it, any tips to remove hose LR005564 i dont want to mess the pipe up it connects to? i also bought trans cooler lines, how hard or what is the process of adding trans fluid and making sure the level is correct?

LR005564

Has three connections

1. Standard hose clamp (Easy to remove)

2. Spring clip latch (remove the spring clip an pull the other hose straight off) Don't lose the spring clip, reinstall it after the hose are disconnected

i would like to thank everyone for the help, i did all of that, taking bumper off really opens things up, i got it back together, new radiator, hoses, thermostat ect..about 3 hours ago , no leaks all is good, so Paul i do want to do trans lines and check fluid level , whats the secret ?

Congratulation of fixing the radiator.


To set the transmission level do the following

1. lift the LR2 and support with Jack Stands (Axel stands for our UK friends) and make sure your LR2 is level

2. remove the shield under the engine

3. start the vehicle (the Torx T40 can only be removed with the vehicle running)

4. Remove the T40 and catch any fluid that drips out

5. Allow the transmission fluid to warm up and it will drip out

6. When the transmission fluid gets to 60C put the Torx T40 back on - you are now at the correct level

You can add some fluid to the transmission cooler lines to compensate for any that dripped on the floor while changing the lines.



The T40 is nested inside a 17 mm hex, this picture shows what that parts look like when removed.

Note: You will only see the bottom of these parts.




This is what you will see




https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic28619.html

Good luck

Paul

Last edited by p_gill on 4th Mar 2021 1:12 am. Edited 1 time in total

Thanks to this amazing thread I was able to complete this job without completely losing my mind.
I replaced the coolant hoses, alternator and drive coupling as well as the thermostat.
In the UK, we salt our roads in winter which results in a great many nuts and bolts being seized and destroyed.
I replaces tons of nuts and bolts, a few hose clamps too.
I also cut the loom on the two secondary flaps in the manifold. I re-joined them with waterproof auto connectors to make it easier in future.
Next up, auxiliary belt and some more coolant hoses!

Thanks again for this thread

Craig,

That's great to hear.

Was your Thermostat broken?

Take care

Paul

yeah there is what i would call a coolant pipe made of metal that hose was connected to that was corroded all is well but if i ever replace water pump i will probally replace that pipe, trans lines, spark plugs, and maybe brakes in the future, could have done it without this forum, thanx

Thank YOU Paul!

There were a few small pieces of thermostat in the block. I put it back togetherlike a jigsawto make sure it was all there. Luckily, the pieces hadn't travelled in to the cooling jacket.
The alternator was easy to replace, as was the drive coupling (belt).
I'll think about the auxiliary belt next month.
Thanks again for this great thread.

Craig and Indiana,

I am really glad to hear that this tread was helpful.

I started this thread almost 3 years ago and its been viewed nearly 10K views.

It is really nice to hear that its helpful.

In case you haven't guessed I really like my LR2 and I plan to keep it forever and I want to fix the things that wear out before some expensive part fails because I didn't replace an inexpensive part.

Both of you are now on this path.

And to quote the Mandalorian "THIS IS THE WAY"

Take care

Paul

yes we plan on keeping it for life , i like that engine and trans combo, i felt like things were well engineered, and none of the replacement parts said made in mexico or china, we are now looking for another land/range rover , maybe 2015 LR2 or maybe a disco, anything that isnt hybrid, im not ready to learn all of that...thanks for all the help

Freel2,

I just watched a video of a XC90 3.2 with a failed Thermostat.

The surprising thing is that the failure mode appears to be non standard.

Common failure mode for 3.2 Thermostat

1. Cracked plastic due to return spring shear force and thermal cycles (Fatigue or Creep rupture is the likely phenomenon)

2. Plastic failure of the O-ring groove at its thinnest section


Mode #1

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Hi, I have an LR2 at 214000 Miles and have a leaking heater hose. Can somebody pls educate me on how to DIY replace those. Just a few pics with explanation will be a big big help and would be greatly appreciated.

At the moment I am replacing the thermostat on my i6, I have reached the point where everything is unbolted and ready to remove the inlet manifold, but I find it is impossible to lift out the manifold due to a metal tube protruding from the head at the centre of the manifold, do I have to remove the engine stabilizers on top of the engine and underneath the engine and push the engine back towards the bulkhead to remove the inlet manifold? or is there something that's quicker?

I have the manifold out, just tried a newer key in the bleed port which had better purchase,

1powerrack,


The Bleed Port can be unscrewed using a HEX Key

p_gill wrote:

Adding a picture of the bleed port wit the hex key installed

Thanks

Paul