Hi all new member here, I have a 2007 FL2 TD4. There is no drive in any available gear D,R, sport 1 or 2. a code reader gives P 2733 Pressure control solenoid struck. Would this fault give the no drive problem? Indications look OK on the instrument display, fuses F2 and
F42 checked ok any ideas?

https://www.obd-codes.com/p2733

The above link says it is a common generic code.

Apart from being the solenoid itself, it mentions fluid contamination. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

Thanks Ian interesting reading I will try checking the oil level tomorrow.

To keep this thread going. As my diagnostic reader says that the input shaft and output shaft speeds are zero is it likely that the input drive spline has stripped? Or the input shaft sheared? Do these things happen?

I think you’d possibly hear something like a stripped spline? Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

Yes if you listen carefully there is a sort of buzz from somewhere, but the spline will be inside the torque converter isn't it?

What diagnostic reader do you use? Because I don't think that you can read the input and output shafts' speeds...
I say this because some time ago I've used to play with diagnostic tools/software/interfaces and I didn't find the proper PIDs where these info are available.
But as long as that solenoid is stuck open, then there will be no pressure available to engage either D or R.

And no, didn't hear about a box input shaft broken as it's driven by the torque convertor output and you can't break it. You don't have enough torque there for that.
What some people are talking about are the splines of the transfer case, which is after the box. But even if you have a problem there, then the car would engage D and/or R.
No, your problem is on the box's valve block. An either mechanical or electrical problem.

Thanks Alex, the reader is the icarsoft LR2. Can the stuck solenoid be replaced? Would it need the box removed?

The valve block is on the front of the box, behind that black cover.
Just the solenoid.... Yes, it can be replaced, but most rebuilders give you the whole valve block, not just individual solenoids.
You can check the solenoid continuity and parameters if you take out the ECU and expose the box electrical connector.
More here: https://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/user...-Speed.pdf

Thanks for that link it will be most useful. if I remove the valve block will there be lots of bits fall out the back is it all self contained? I have another gearbox that has been damaged so I could swap parts from that. I will add to this thread as I go along. Thank you for your help.

As I didn't dismantle this type of box, I can only say that carefulness should apply.
Generally the valve block is a self contained unit, but as it states on the end of the document, some parts could fall on dismantling the valve block.
It is bolted on the box main block and a lot of electrical connectors and wires to the solenoids that should be unplugged.
You could also take a look at these:
https://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/user...0-81SC.pdf
https://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/user...%20FWD.pdf

Alex yes I will be careful, I will take the damaged box Valve block out and see if it all hangs together! I am sure it will be fun and involve a lot of transmission fluid. It may take some time before I have anything to report.

If anyone is still interested, I took the car to someone who rebuilds auto gearboxes. A phone call this morning tells me that the oil pump is destroyed, more to follow when it is repaired.

Best of luck Rusper - interesting thread Jules

rusper wrote:

If anyone is still interested, I took the car to someone who rebuilds auto gearboxes. A phone call this morning tells me that the oil pump is destroyed, more to follow when it is repaired.

According to the tech there is a bush that moves and cuts off the oilways.


This is what happens when there is no lubrication. All fixed now!