Several of you complete your own servicing and thus I would like to highlight something which may save you several hours head scratching and will teach us blokes to read the manual!

We own a 2013 Reg FL2.. recently the rear offside has been eating rear pads at a horrendous rate..thus suspected a sticking calliper or a sticking slider and thus decided to replace both with a new carrier and a new calliper… easy job should take less than half an hour.. we’ve all swapped callipers and was expecting no issue.. calliper was sourced from the brilliant Advanced Factors and it’s a TRW genuine part which arrived… perfect!

Easy job.. everything swapped over perfectly and just came to bleeding the brakes.. spent ages trying to fathom why it was not bleeding correctly .. nada nothing zilch… was the connection fine, brake line clips off? Was the bleed nipple working? Was the servo causing issues? Was the electric park brake bit holding piston in?

Nope… and this is the bit that may be helpful… at the very bottom of the brake line inlet where the banjo bolt screws in was a desperately hidden grub screw/ Allen key which certainly was not obvious.. right down at the base of the screw thread.. FFS!

Spent hours trying to determine why… normally callipers have a lovely red plastic bung covering these…as it was plastic wrapped I presumed it didn’t need it!

Only when you review the multi lingual picture diagrams do you see a tiny image showing the grub screw but does not highlight its removal…

So you’ve all been warned.. if replacing a new calliper and it has not got the obvious red plastic bungs look down the bottom of the brake line mount to find the obscure tiny grub screw.. could save you hours of messing! And read the instructions!

Thanks for your info.

Little gems like this can make life so much easier  Back in the fold after 8 yrs. V8 Disco 300 series-Gone.07 Freelander 2 HSE Auto Rimini Red.
Gone.
2013 HSE Lux Havana ( Brown! )