Hi,
Last week I bought a 2008 Freelander 2 off a private seller. Turns out it has a major parasitic leak which is flattening the battery. I'm going through the process of pulling the fuses to identify which circuit causes the problem.
My question is... how do you get the cover off fuses 16-21 so you can get access to them?
Thanks for any help.
Malcolm

Hi you sure it's a leak are you double locking after use.

Happy downloading but don't blame me if its got a bug in it.

https://manuals.co/workshop/land-rover/freelander FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Hi Bobby,

Thanks for getting back to me.

No I didn't double lock because i didn't know of the concept but i will do in the future.

It is flattening the battery overnight. I did buy a new battery and it did the same to that.
Also the earth lead was loose so I think the previous owner knew of the problem and just disconnected the battery to avoid issue.

After recharging battery I put it in, with all doors closed (bonnet open) connected the battery with my multimeter in series on the earth side and something clicked in the engine area and it drew 1.4A.

Removing and replacing each fuse in engine bay and retesting didn't find any problems.

Never did manage to access fuses 16-21 so instead of removing 17 and 18 I removed all the fuses in the passenger compartment fuse box and the leakage current dropped to 0.35A. Which is progress but probably means I have 2 problems.

Finally, removing the FA1 fuse in the Luggage compartment dropped the leakage to 0A. So there is something wrong with my driver door controls.

Hopefully at the weekend I will get time to identify which circuit is leaking the 1.05 A and then I'm not sure how i work out what the problems are... but first things first.

I'll keep you posted and if anyone has any advice or suggestions it's greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Malcolm

Yorky Bob,

Thanks for the links.
Fortunately the car came with the handbook but I could do with a service manual.
Probably buy the Haynes manual at the weekend unless you can recommend something better?

Cheers,
Malcolm

Malcolm,

Take a look at these pictures from a Volvo guy.

About half way down the page you will see a door module and its labeled FoMoCo (I suspect that we have the same module)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/132855535@N0...396142020/

You can clearly see the corrosion on the module and wire harness.

If you take off your door panel (door card?) take a picture and post it here.


For reference

I changed my battery last week because of a no start issues, this is my third battery in about 10 years.

I did try to recharge the old battery but it was too far gone so I gave up.

Note: Before giving up I fully charged my five year old battery and then I didn't do anything for 24 hours and then I tried to start the engine and it failed to start. I did charge the battery with it connected to my LR2. I should have reset the electronics by disconnecting B+ and B- and held them together for 30 minutes. By skipping the reset step I drained the battery completely in about 1 day.

Lesson learned: if the engine doesn't start or if it just barely starts always recharge the battery and reset the electronics.


Here is what I think is happening: During cranking the voltage of the system drops and if it drops low enough then one of the modules (computers) looses communications and it doesn't shut down when the main computer (ECU) sends out the request to shut down.

To combat this problem some have added an extra earth wire between B- and the engine or transmission.

For me personally I replaced all of the fuses because corroded contacts can also result in a voltage drop and my fuses were not bright or shinny.

If you have a wire harness like the Volvo link then that could cause problems as well.

Do you have a copy of the wiring diagram for the LR2?

Good luck with your search.

Please let us know what you find out.


Happy motoring

Paul

Last edited by p_gill on 11th Sep 2017 9:19 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Just one more observation.

I changed the battery on my FL2 this week (obviously with ignition off) and the earth lead sparks on re-connection
, a little disconcerting but I have no idea why as you would expect it to be in a sleep mode as no doors were open. Possibly had I done a hard re-set that sparking would not happen. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Yorkybob did you have the bonnet circuit closed when reconnecting ,I'e the 2 switch,levers down as in the bonnet closed mode.

No, but without doing it to see the result I would have expected no live bonnet switch until the ignition was on and/or the alarm was set. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Hi Yorkybob just a bit of topic ,when you invert the fob is there a delay while the heater plugs warm up.on other cars you see the coil symbol light up until the heater plugs are ready then go off and then you start the engine.

In the hills so quick reply but I rarely see the heater plug symbol and it does not show on ignition cycle. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Maybe when winter reaches the Pennines ,at least a couple of weeks away.

Mine went through a stage of making flat batteries if it wasnt driven daily. I knew it wasnt a tracker as i had removed it. I replaced a blown headlight bulb and the problem stopped, fortunately before i got round to replacing the battery

Thanks for all the help. It's really nice to see be part of such a helpful community. Hopefully soon i will know enough to be able to contribute.

I took the door panel off and it is indeed that FoMoCo module. However when i pulled the connectors they all looked fine so squirted them with contact cleaner and put them back together.

Looking at the windows and mirrors module with the switches etc there were signs of fluid, probably contact cleaner, leaking from the module. So i suspected someone already had it apart and it was likely the problem. Removed that and put all the fuses back.

Then did a couple of things that were recommended, thanks Paul, i don't really understand why they were necessary but I have not read the manual yet so ... I connected the power leads together and left them for an hour or more and then having reconnected the battery I double locked with 2 presses of the key fob.

24 hrs later I tried to start the car and started perfectly.
Today i have again started it, no problem.
To put this in context, when it flattened the battery, the battery was down to 4.5V or was it 5.4V and it wouldn't even accept me putting the fob in the ignition.

I have ordered a new (used) driver door switches module through fleabay and expect many years of trouble free motoring after fitting that!

Finally...
I never did get into those fuses 16-21.

Thank you all for the help.

All the best,
Malcolm

Malcolm,

Congratulations on finding the problem.

If you are feeling adventurous you may want to open up the old module and have a look inside to see what failed.

Thanks

Paul