Installed a new Varta F19 silver dynamic 85Ah 800CCA which replaced the LR (Exide) 80Ah 700CCA. The car didn't actually need it yet but I don't want to be stuck beyond the black stump! We saw 3 cars in remote areas that needed to be jump started in the morning over a 6 weeks holiday in NSW, Subaru, Skoda & Toyota, & not old models either! http://www.batteriesdirect.com.au/shop/pro...(f19).html

Not too difficult, a bit of pushing cables out of the way, & reset the clock, time & date. (I did have an Anderson plug on top of the battery but have removed it to upgrade it)

Click image to enlarge

I have a 175Amp Anderson plug attached to the front grille. (top right-hand corner)
My jump leads come in two halves, short lead with Anderson and crock clips, and a long one with Anderson and crock clips. This way I don't have to open my bonnet to jump someones vehicle. Also the crop clips have a flexible copper link between the jaws, ensuring the current goes to both jaws of each clip.

+1 for Tanya and +1 for Varta - Silver or AGM.

Just be aware that Tanya battery selector is a bit rubbish.

Easy enough to check your measurements and then you have the correct battery (from memory 315x175x190)

Sensible folk on here pre-empting that dead battery!

One way you can tell if the battery is going I have found is to use a cigar lighter voltmeter - if the battery is sound, there should be periods when the battery is not being charged by the car and the volts will drop to well under 13 volts. It will rise over 14 on overrun. If the volts are nailed high, the battery is coming to the end of it's life. It's counter intuitive, but ranging volts implies a strong battery, but fixed high volts suggests the opposite.

+1 for Tanya and +1 for Varta - Silver or AGM.

Just be aware that Tanya battery selector is a bit rubbish.

Easy enough to check your measurements and then you have the correct battery (from memory 315x175x190)

Sensible folk on here pre-empting that dead battery!

One way you can tell if the battery is going I have found is to use a cigar lighter voltmeter - if the battery is sound, there should be periods when the battery is not being charged by the car and the volts will drop to well under 13 volts. It will rise over 14 on overrun. If the volts are nailed high, the battery is coming to the end of it's life. It's counter intuitive, but ranging volts implies a strong battery, but fixed high volts suggests the opposite.

Think I've had my Duracell heavy duty a bit over a year now it's been excellent,just because it's what I do I put it on a conditioning charge this week ready for winter,car gets short runs and I thought it wise.

Just replaced mine with 80Ah Varta from Tayna having had 2 non starts in 2 days. Was still original LR so 8 years old, not bad going, but time for a change. Excellent service and great price. Ordered 1pm, arrived next day 2 pm. Andy
Freelander2 HSE (59 Plate, MY10 spec)

gasman wrote:

I got one of those batteries of eBay last year �89.50 plus �7.50 delivered. Exactly the same as the old one on the car. For some reason it comes with the JLR logo tipexed out. Same size same amps etc. Only time will tell but so far so good.

Correction, i did need to do a window reset once i realised i had lost one touch up and down.
Nigel

Considering a replacement for the original Exide RC135 and swayed towards the Lucas LP110 from Tanya batteries.

Does anyone have alternative suggestion? I have a 2007 FL2 HSE manual that doesn’t have stop/start.

I’d also appreciate removal/fitting advice, looking from the front of the vehicle there is a vertical metal rod, is this a securing device? Also is there the usual metal clamp at the base of the battery holding it firm, its difficultto see with everything stillin place?

The vertical metal rod is really a very long shouldered bolt that holds the base clamping device in place. When it’s unscrewed, you can lift the battery out and if you are unlucky the base clamp will try to escape into the engine bay. If it doesn’t get out it will be left at the bottom of the battery tray and will be in the way of the new battery so remove it. You can move the new battery around and arrange the clamp into a suitable place that holds the battery down and allows the long bolt to be screwed in. Don’t forget to move the battery breather from the old battery to the new battery.

I have same car and year as you yes undo the rod and it should lift out I don’t remember anymore to undo,the battery is well heavy I found a step stool helped me get mine out. I got a Duracell heavy duty from ECP if I remember correctly it’s been excellent.

You will need to reset the clock and one shot windows. tell you how to do it in your owners pack. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Thanks guys. I presume there are no issues about losing anything else whilst batteries are swapped over?

No it’s just as Bob said above,

Fitted my new battery today... Varta F19 Silver Dynamic 85Ah. Ordered from Tanya yesterday, delivered today.

The car has not been used for over a week and following the really cold night, it took some cranking for its first start but thereafter... great again.

Reset the windows, forgot the clock. You'd think a so called top end system would pick up the time signal via RDS.