Nodge68 wrote:

An M8 bolt in the timing hole of the flywheel will bend, long before the 70Nm initial tightening torque. An M8 might well shear at 4700Nm, but there's a good 10mm of gap between the engine back plate and the flywheel, which is plenty of space to simply bend a small diameter bolt.

Good luck though.

Hi, if you take the gearbox out, the gap is about 20mm, so the bending moment is not too bad on a very high tensile heat treated ground dowel. I checked the dowel was straight after putting 300 foot pound on the Crankshaft bolt, and it was still dead straight. Its the straps on the clutch that are the potential problem, as the load is only in tension, so undoing the bolt could bend them. Interesting subject, isn'nt it!

Have the belt kit, water pump and locking tools sitting in the garage, planning to change mine in a couple of weeks when I'm off work for a few days. Not done one before and hoping it all goes without hitch.🤞 Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

I've got a cylinder head change next week, I'll be changing the timing belt again than.
I've got the tools, so I'm going to use them. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ionic 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

Bobupndown wrote:

Have the belt kit, water pump and locking tools sitting in the garage, planning to change mine in a couple of weeks when I'm off work for a few days. Not done one before and hoping it all goes without hitch.🤞

2 foot breaker bar with a length of steel tube or box as extra leverage should sort that! Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

OK.... I bit the bullet and ordered the tool. Needed to fork out another £50 for this including shipping and VAT to Norway, but on the other hand it might be worth it to avoid unnecessary hazzle during the process.... Then most should be by the book. The water pump will be fitted dry without any extra sealant on the gasket ( as discussed in another thread..)

The Dayco video are a bit misleading as its shows the useage of RTV sealant in the pump gasket and doing the job without the locking tool.

MRRover75 wrote:

Can`t disagree on your comments. its the most "political correct" to use the locking tools and avoids any hazzle during the process.... I will see how I can get this tool in the first place. Not as easy in Norway as in the UK....

Some thoughts/assumptions to challenge this statement:

I am pretty sure I can do this without, but not sure If I want to run into any trouble in the middle of the job.

By using the slick end of a M8 12.9 bolt as locking pin, my calculations shows that this one will shear of at about 4701Nm if it is situated 150mm from the crankshaft centre. There is of course a lot of factors that will lower this value, but it is still way over the specified 70Nm. Not sure how much torque the +80 deg generates, but still a lot less.
The tightening of the crankshaft is basically done in two steps:
1. The state from a free rotating crankshaft sprocket to a locked up sprocket - This is achieved long before the initial 70Nm
2. The torque tightening of the bolt - This stage will not alter the position of the crankshaft sprocket. Why? Because the sprocket is clamped between two faces that already are rotational locked/fixed towards the crankshaft. One side is the crankshaft flange, the other is the keyed washer between the crankshaft pulley and the sprocket.

By this, it would be possible to time up the engine with the pins, tighten the pulley bolt to the first stage, then remove both timing pins and to the final stage by holding the crankshaft by the highest gear and brakes or chock something in the starter gear. At the end, Verify timing by inserting the pins back in. Loosening of the bolt can be done in the same way without locking the positions as the engine needs to be timed up anyway. It will not go far out of timing when loosening due to the wide groove in the sprocket against the crankshaft.

As stated, I will look around for the locking tool, but are pretty sure it can be done without

P.S.

I did study a picture of the DMF found on Ebay. The hole for the timing pin in the flywheel are located in a plate that is fixed to the flywheel with 8 rivets. Looking at this, the timing pin would not be the limiting factor regarding the torque stated above, but the DMF itself as those small rivets might not hold the great torque:



Shearing these means a ruined DMF and a gearbox out operation. Has been there doing the clutch, so not tempting to do it again

Still, the above statement would be feasible, but excessive torque shall be avoided when using the timing pin...

All this made things clearer

Maybe you could sell the tool on ebay etc and get some of your investment back.
I looked on ebay first but couldnt find any 2nd-hand ones. Jules

I might, but don't think there is much to get there so it will be resting nicely on my shelf... There is a tendency that other FL2 owners in Norway contacts me with their issues and another TB job might be on my table sooner or later....
I have done 11 rear diffs till now, so the rumours definitely runs around....

If you thought changing the cam belt on a TD4 was hard then look at a Ford Ecoboost engine with its internal wet cambelt ...
&ab_channel=Nicholas%F0%9F%9A%99

OMG

BTW these engines are starting to fail cos the cambelt wears and the bits block the oil pick up strainer.

PS I have a Fiesta with an Ecoboost engine - but think its got a chain not a belt as its a 1.5L ST - but its worrying as the oil pump is still driven by a rubber belt in oil.
Time will tell. Jules