Quick question as well potential better running, would fitting EGR blank plate also eventually stop the weeping oil leak from under the top left joint of the air intake pipe (left of the organ pipes)?

thanks

Quick question as well potential better running, would fitting EGR blank plate also eventually stop the weeping oil leak from under the top left joint of the air intake pipe (left of the organ pipes)?

thanks

No, this is likely to be a loose inter-cooler hose leaking. The oily residue you're seeing is probably from the crankcase ventilation system which is fed in after the MAF sensor. This, imo, is the other half of the EGR problem. EGR on its own doesn't really cause any major issues with the engine (other than some minor hesitation and marginally worse performance) but mix it with the oily residue from the CCV breather and then you get the sludgy mess that gets on everything including the DPF.

The simplest solution is to blank off the EGR, which is what I do with all my cars as I live in the countryside - I have mixed feelings about doing it in cities but each to their own. Blanking the EGR increases combustion temperature and oxygen which increases nitrous oxide (NOx) emissions but reduces the production of particulate matter. To compensate these days, manufacturers have started to add selective catalytic reducer (SCR) systems so that they can reduce EGR activity (preserving DPFs) and still reduce NOx emissions but further down the exhaust (by spraying in ammonia which bonds with the NOx). Of course you then pay for the ammonia (Adblue).

I have just installed a blanking plate to my 2011 TD4 GS 150 (with DPF) and I have lost all power below 2000rpm. It feels as though the turbo actuator is blocked. I haven't thrown the MIL but I'll check for codes tomorrow. I plan to remove and see what happens. I probably need to map out the EGR system which I may do myself. Week 2 of FL2 ownership and I do like it.

I seem to remember someone suggested the oily crank case breather air was good for the turbo, keeping it lubed on the air side so to speak, certainly the fitting of the air intake pipe needs to be done carefully to stop the leaky residue. Some worm drive clips (jubilee) are a little on the wide side and will not seal the hose properly.  MY2014 SD4 XS
Ipanema Sand

MY10 TD4-e GS Manual
Lago Grey Now retired after 8 trouble free years

Yeah, I think I'd agree with that although I don't know how much oil the cold side of the turbo would need other than what it gets through the normal feed to the shaft.

I don't think either of them do any harm on their own but when mixed together you get the sludge. Personally, I'd leave the CCV alone and just deal with the EGR. I think I'm going to have to map mine out to get the power back below 2000. 2011 TD4 GS 150

I also tried to blank the EGR on my 2011 MY . It ran terrible. Can anyone recommend anybody near Bristol who can delete the EGR from the ECU. Thanks Steve

Will blanking the egr cause the egr value to become blocked. My thinking is that the soot will still try to follow its original path, but will get blocked before the engine intake. Will this eventually block the egr valve and or cooler? Thanks

Arctic wrote:

I finally got round to fitting the EGR blanking plate to the FL 2 I could not really feel any difference to be honest.

Remove engine cover then loosen the EGR pipe bolts/nuts.

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There is also a midway bolts to remove/loosen so you get some working space to fit the plate.
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nuts loose and removed after which gives you enough room to slip in the plate.
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EGR blank plate fitted re-tighten the nuts and bolts up and refit the engine cover.
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I recently purchased a spare manifold to remove the swirl flaps, once the flaps had been removed the manifold was cleaned out, you can see how the exhaust pipe hole starts to gunk up if not blanked off.

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Also note how the swirl flaps get gunked up, this then leads to flap failure and engine damage if they snap off.
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manifold cleaned and ready to fit / replace my manifold
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so part of the manifold removal was to move the exhaust pipe out of the way.
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As when blanking remove the two bolts
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Here you can see how my original manifold exhaust port as started to gunk up and reduce to it being blocked by gunk, so that was there before i even blanked it off in 2017

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In these photos you can see how the gunk also affect the sensor.
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Sensor was cleaned also with contact cleaner.

So yes worth while blanking off in my opinion.

Arctic,

That's really good pictures of an unclean & clean inlet manifold, and a really good idea to buy a secondhand manifold to clean & prepare ready to swop which is an idea I am going to copy.

Was it particularly difficult to clean up to a good standard & can you pass any tips on for removing the flaps etc?

I have been contemplating doing this for some time & always had a nagging doubt about how long it take to remove the flaps & clean up or if I damaged something whilst doing the work, this would mean the vehicle is off the road whilst I get parts for what I damaged. This way I can spend as long as I like getting the secondhand one into the condition yours was prior to doing the swop.

Off to Ebay now to look for a secondhand manifold for hopefully not too much money.

Thanks again for passing on a good tip.



Cheers
Brian

Quote:

Arctic,

That's really good pictures of an unclean & clean inlet manifold, and a really good idea to buy a secondhand manifold to clean & prepare ready to swop which is an idea I am going to copy.

Was it particularly difficult to clean up to a good standard & can you pass any tips on for removing the flaps etc?

I have been contemplating doing this for some time & always had a nagging doubt about how long it take to remove the flaps & clean up or if I damaged something whilst doing the work, this would mean the vehicle is off the road whilst I get parts for what I damaged. This way I can spend as long as I like getting the secondhand one into the condition yours was prior to doing the swop.

Off to Ebay now to look for a second hand manifold for hopefully not too much money.

Thanks again for passing on a good tip.

Cheers
Brian Cool

Hi Brian.
I found out later you can purchase second hand manifolds which are flap free already i found the flap brass bar was quite easy to remove once you pop off the ball & knuckle on the end
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With the ball & knuckle separated you will need to pry up the steel clip connector.
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Now twist the flap rod ball a little.
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Then pull out steady the rod hopefully it will come free.
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This will then leave the flaps inside the manifold which should just pop out with a flat blade screw driver.
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The manifold i purchased only had three flaps left so i presume this must have come from an FL2 that a flap broke free and damaged the engine ?
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Here you can see how the rod and swirl flaps would connect if inside the manifold.
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There is a bit more to do to clean it up which i will post up on another thread as i seem to be high jacking this one

Thanks Arctic - those pics are brilliant & informative.

I cant find any flapless manifolds on the bay at the moment, however there are a few with flaps for under £30 which is a pretty painless price.

I'll look forward to your fresh thread when you post it on this subject, and thanks again for those great pictures.



Cheers
Brian

The manifold doesn't have to come from a Freelander, mine came off of a Ford Galaxy Mk3 \ Ford Mondeo Mk4 2010-2014 2.2. The manifold has the part numbers for both the Non Swirl and With Swirl versions stamped on it. You need the one where the black arrow stamped on it is pointing at the 9659449480 number.

Its a mucky job cleaning it up.

Also do yourself a favour and take the opportunity tto change the Glow Plugs whilst you have easy access. 
Hung like Einstein, smart as a horse.

Thanks for the reminder - 4 x NGK glow plugs duly ordered.


Cheers
Brian