I need a bit of advice about my Potterton profile 60e.  Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

I can try but giving an answer over the net may be won't help but fire away or maybe not in your case.

Thanks Archie. The problem I'm having is that it either sometimes fails to fire up when I turn the thermostat up or it starts, runs for about 5 minutes then goes out. Turning the thermostat down, waiting a few minutes and then turning the thermostat up gets it to start and run normally and it can run for days before going on the blink again. Trouble is it doesn't do it all the time but I'm betting it'll do it over Christmas! I phoned our local big plumbers/central heating engineers to book a visit but the unhelpful receptionist said that they wouldn't come out to an intermittent fault on a boiler and I should phone back when it packs up completely! I had it fitted in our house around twenty years ago, I've never had it serviced and it has broken down only twice, once at around 3 years and once again at around 7 years both with the same fault - the PCB - although on both those occasions it packed up completely. I'm just wondering if it's the same fault again starting to appear and whether to just buy a new PCB and fit it myself. They're just a plug and play unit aren't they? Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

I've usually been able to find an answer to technical woes here http://www.diynot.com/diy/

or specific for your 60e http://www.diynot.com/diy/search/2474918/?...;c[node]=7

Do you or have you had it serviced ...???? Wales
Were the mud is thicker, and the ruts are deeper.
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Speaking as someone who earns a good part of their living in the motor trade servicing cars and teaching others how to service cars, I'm ashamed to say I haven't. I did once ask a so-called plumber what was involved in servicing a boiler and he said it just involved vacuuming soot out of it and adjusting the jets to get a nice blue flame. I've always had a nice colour flame on it so I've left it well alone. It's not like a car where you change oils and filters etc, is it? Perhaps I'm now paying the price? Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

I had a similar problem with my boiler. Turned out to be the fan that was on its way out. The flame was getting starved of air if the burner was too high which is why if run lower it was OK.

Have you tried taking the casing off and seeing if it makes any difference or if there is any sucking sound?

Only real solution is to get someone independent out who won't try and just sell you a new boiler. Learned to drive in 2011.
Bought a Micra - great little car
"Upgraded" to Kia Sportage - hated it
Proper upgrade to FL2 TD4 GS 60 reg Facelift - tailgate paint issues, fuel gauge rewire, transfer box failure at 36k miles, clutch at 60k
Reconditioned diff at 70k ish
Sold at 84k and now on a DS. Terribly unreliable.
Sold DS for a 2021 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV. Fingers crossed....
Sold Outlander for a 2014 SD4 SE Tech because I’m mental

Yes I was going to say is it a fan assisted flue?

When the boiler starts up the fan comes on and theres a flow detector in the flue outlet that tells the boiler, ok the fans working you can now fire up, if the detector doesnt send that message the boiler will shut down again.

On mine which is a Vailant the flow detector works from a small tube thats inserted into the flue outlet from the bolier and connected to the sensor by a small rubber tube.
If this tube becomes fouled up or blocked the sensor doesnt work properly and becomes intermittant.
Mine did get blocked with dust, after some building work etc, and by pulling the rubber tube off and giving it a blow through cleaned it out and cured it.

I have a 20 year old Potterton Prima F which started to go on the blink 2 years ago. The fan would run, then stop, then run, stop, run, for about 10 minutes then would fire up.
Eventually it would not fire up at all.
Searched help forums and was told to point a hot air gun at the PCB when it was trying to fire up.
Did this and it fired up straight away.
This indicated dry soldered joints in the PCB.
Took pics of the PCB and wiring, stripped it out of the boiler and set to resoldering anything that looked like a dodgy joint and put it all back and has fired up perfectly since.

Chuckalicious wrote:

I had a similar problem with my boiler. Turned out to be the fan that was on its way out. The flame was getting starved of air if the burner was too high which is why if run lower it was OK.

Have you tried taking the casing off and seeing if it makes any difference or if there is any sucking sound?

Only real solution is to get someone independent out who won't try and just sell you a new boiler.

i would strongly recommend calling out a gas safe registered engineer to sort this issue out.please do not go tampering inside the boiler.you could potentialy put yourself and others in danger.i have attended many installations that have put peoples lives at risk through unqualified indivduals tying a quick fix.you cannot put a price on life.please pay for someone qualified to attend and rectify the fault.this is not a dig at you.just my advise as an engineer,good luck

SYFL2 wrote:

Chuckalicious wrote:

I had a similar problem with my boiler. Turned out to be the fan that was on its way out. The flame was getting starved of air if the burner was too high which is why if run lower it was OK.

Have you tried taking the casing off and seeing if it makes any difference or if there is any sucking sound?

Only real solution is to get someone independent out who won't try and just sell you a new boiler.

Taking the case of is highly illegal.

taking the case off isn't illegal, I don't believe even working on the gas side of your own boiler is illegal.

Working on others gas supply I think might be illegal however if your not qualified and registered.

either way, its not advisable to start playing around with gas appliances unless you are
a) current and competent in your skills
b) know what your doing as its not a case of trial and error.......

As long as you know what a Corgi is youre ok.

Knowing what youre doing and not doing it by trial and error obviously doesnt apply to fixing a car.

Steve D wrote:

Thanks Archie. The problem I'm having is that it either sometimes fails to fire up when I turn the thermostat up or it starts, runs for about 5 minutes then goes out. Turning the thermostat down, waiting a few minutes and then turning the thermostat up gets it to start and run normally and it can run for days before going on the blink again. Trouble is it doesn't do it all the time but I'm betting it'll do it over Christmas! I phoned our local big plumbers/central heating engineers to book a visit but the unhelpful receptionist said that they wouldn't come out to an intermittent fault on a boiler and I should phone back when it packs up completely! I had it fitted in our house around twenty years ago, I've never had it serviced and it has broken down only twice, once at around 3 years and once again at around 7 years both with the same fault - the PCB - although on both those occasions it packed up completely. I'm just wondering if it's the same fault again starting to appear and whether to just buy a new PCB and fit it myself. They're just a plug and play unit aren't they?