On my car at the moment is (cooler+valve) joined to (EGR+motor). I have bought a (EGR+motor) as I didn't know about the (cooler+valve) until I started working on the car this afternoon.

I'm going to replace the (EGR+motor) and re-use the (cooler+valve) thats already on the car.

When it comes to the exhaust circuit, they generally seem to label parts in order as you travel along the system from the start to the end. (For O2 sensors, sensor 1 is pre-cat, sensor 2 is after-cat etc). Working on the same principle, then the start of the EGR system would be where the exhaust gas enters into the cooler, and the end would be where the gas flows back into inlet manifold.

With that in mind, then if there is a sensor on the cooler valve, then it makes sense for that to be called circuit A, as its at the start, and for the EGR motor sensor to be circuit B as it comes afterwards in terms of flow through the system.

Time will tell, I'll start working on it all tomorrow and hope for the best. There is little point taking pictures, there is no space to get a good shot.

Well, job done. Egr changed, and error is gone. Fingers crossed it stays that way. Very fiddly access to some bolts. Took 6 hrs for me.

Well, the error is right back already. Getting sick of this car. Bought something newer cause I wanted less hassle of fixing things. Beginning to regret it already.

Knowing the problems of EGR's and the soot they create potentially causing other damage to the Throttle valve and the inlet manifold throttle flaps, (there are 4 throttle flaps hidden inside the upper 4 ports of the 8 port manifold on pre 2011MY cars), I wanted to look at the EGR blanking plate.
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FLPrintzern has one fitted and Alex has had one installed, (but took his out because he wasn't happy with a slower warm up time).

Ive fitted one to my 2010MY car and had it running for 1 week now, no faults, no limp mode and ive made no program alterations.
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I really can't tell that ive fitted it, ie fuel consumption is the same, not any smoother...........
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Please can other Forum members who have fitted the blank please add their comments so others can have an idea of what does or doesn't happen.
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Kind regards from Fred.
. 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

Not possible to blank the system post 2011, the ECU monitors inlet manifold pressure and looks for a change when the EGR should open and close. If it doesn't see it, it'll throw errors.

I've subscribed to TOPIx for a couple of weeks so I can get all the manuals. Have to say, whilst the diagrams are better, the content and wording is pants compared to the RAVE stuff. Very little descriptive information on how the systems work. The old RAVE would explain in good steps what the system goes through when working.

It also seems to describe the EGR valve as being the vacuum operated valve on the cooler side, and referring to the electronic one as an actuator.

I'm beginning to think that possibly the vacuum operation part of the system isn't working right. I'll need to look into that too.

OK, the plot thickens ... sigh.

Spent a while with the car and the SDD system this afternoon. Previously I had just read my error as being P0486 which most OBD2 systems call EGR Sensor B - which is why I have been so focussed on the EGR system. This error I first read using a generic scan tool, and having got SDD up and running, just glanced to see the same number and text reporting sensor B circuit etc .

Whilst I was running through TOPIx I came across the manuals that discuss the error codes and their possible causes. One of the warnings at the top of the documents is that generic code readers only report a 5-digit error, in my case "P0486" at first, but that manufacturer code readers such as SDD read and report a 7-digit error.

So went back to SDD and sure enough, it had been reporting 7-digit codes ... in this case "P0486-16" ... but I had just been glancing over that detail. Checking the manual reports that:

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

I've always said that it's better to use dealer's or LR compatible testers which give you full 9 (yes, nine) digits of any error codes. Indeed only first 7 describe the error, but the last two is also telling you what kind of error is: permanent, intermittent, historic, etc.
Also freeze frame information will tell you information about when and which condition were when error occurred (time, temperatures, RPMs, speed, throttle position, etc).

I agree on getting the best diagnostic system you can.

I think to label what is known to be a throttle body error as EGR is deliberately misleading on the part of lr to lock you into dealerships. The correct error code should really be P0120 or similar, especially when the issue is an obd2 generic mechanical issue.

P0120 is for the cabin pedal.

In extremis, in a way, they may be right...
The EGR system is from the exhaust, through the cooler and valve up to the throttle body through the pipe.
In know, pretty stretched thinking, but...

I do know where you are coming from ... but it is stretched thinking compared to a P0120 or even a P0220 code where you could simply have the 6th and 7th digit to signal that its the main throttle body rather than the cabin pedal.

But that would be common sense ... in the design of a Land Rover ... no way !

throttle body ordered ... no point trying to fix it ... I've seen the various pictures.

Ok, new throttle body fitted. Error gone. Tried a number of driver demands that previously would have errors the car and it's all been fine .... So far.

Took the cover off the old one, nothing obviously wrong. The gears are all perfect with no wear. The butterfly twisted closed and snapped open as it should. The action felt the same as the new one. I'm wondering if the potentiometer circuit was throwing errors due to wear or broken surfaces ... Or if the motor was slow to respond, so at high demand, the butterfly couldn't open quick enough.

Lastly, the intake tracts were quite oily. Need to find out whether it's the normal amount or not.

Presumably to have oily inlet tracts the oil must be from the turbo shaft bearings. Does anybody know if a turbo has oil seals to retain the bearing lube or do you expect to loose oil from here as a part of the design ?
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I've noticed an oil weep on the joints of my front induction pipe , spotted because I did the oil filter this week.
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Kind regards from Fred
. 2010GS Auto ex Celeb, Santorini Black, 2011 facelift , spoiler, spats, mudflaps, LED footwell lamps, Witter detach,
Other cars:-
1958 & 1959 Austin J40 Pedal Cars under restoration (I make many J40 parts)
If you have an Austin J40 or Pathfinder Pedal Car looking for a new home pls PM me.
2009 Meriva

Quote:

Presumably to have oily inlet tracts the oil must be from the turbo shaft bearings.

@fisha
We have a 13my that had issues when we bought it - garage replaced EGR - so they said. That was 2 years ago and yesterday it went into limp mode and then cleared.

Given your it took 6 hours - is there any recommendations of where to start?

I do not yet have any diag code reader - I do have a cheap OBD reader as we keep getting 'system charging fault' that clears if you stop and restart [another thread maybe later]

I really dont want tp spend a fortune on a reader and would prefer to DIY as 4 hours +parts at even a specialist is £££

Anyways I'm concerned that as it was the garages cost that they didnt replace the EGR valve and just cleaned it.

thanks