Hi,

As I pulled up to the McDonalds window today, I pressed the button to move the window down. There were a few clunks and then the window dropped...not to be moved up nor down by the button again. The motor whirls, but nothing happens.

I parked up and manually handled the glass back up, but it doesn't stay up, so I had to defer to good old Gaffa tape to keep it in place.

So, I believe the cables have snapped, but I'm confused as to what to do next. I've had the door card off and surprisingly can't see anything once the card is removed. I've found an old thread on here which has a link link to Land Rober Tech manuals, so I can see how to remove the regulator, but swapping the cables over looks like a nightmare job.

I've read other posts where people suggest they just change the regulator, but I don't get how they don't have to change the cables too.

Has anyone DIY fixed this at home, and how much of a ball ache is it?

Any help gratefully received.

Cheers,

Andy

Last edited by MrPotatoHead on 11th Dec 2015 11:25 pm. Edited 2 times in total

Forget the idea of changing cables, get a complete regulator of ebay £40 or so. Half hour job to do. 2014 SE Loire Blue SD4 Auto (MY15)
Gone - 2011 GS Baltic Blue, Retrofit Electric Leather, Side Steps, 19"SC's, Roof Rails, TT Sat Nav Mod, Retrofit Premium Audio, Retro fit 2013 Xenons with DRL & Sig Strip (Clutch at 47k)
Gone - 2007 GS Narvik Black, Privacy Glass, 19" SC's, Side Steps,Roof Rails, Roof Spoiler, Lamp Guards, Retrofit Electric Leather (Clutch at 115k)
Gone - 2007 SE Santorini Black (Clutch at 120k)
BT IID (best money ever spent on a car)

But this is the thing I don't get!

I'll still have to swap the cables over won't I?

From my knowledge is an entire steel plate with all on it. The glass only clips on it.
See below (courtesy of an user that already gone through it)...
Link here: http://www.freel2.com/forum/post149000.html

Click image to enlarge

Ahhhhhhhhh!

Thank you so much...the penny has just dropped.

This makes sense now...so the only thing I need to work out is how to clip the glass to the carriers, and I think the tech manual I downloaded tells me this.

There is a unit on bay for sale now (£55), so will purchase and take some photos of how I did the job.

Thanks for your help!

Bought this...£32.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/141830847244?_tr...EBIDX%3AIT

Seems quite common these days that it's all a complete assembly. Similar thing happened on my Citroen Xantia when the window froze and the plastic clips that hold the glass broke. Obviously makes it far easier to assemble the car dorrs at the factory.

Surely it would be easier if the whole door came as an assembly ready to bolt on, and in the right colour.?

Why not just exchange the car for a reworked model? (In the past we used to say change the car when the ashtrays were full!)  10MY (Sept 09) TD4 HSE Auto in Stornoway Grey (Now Gone)

08 FL2 TD4 SE Manual in Rimini Red (Now Gone)

I think I found the issue!

So, I said I would post about how I changed the window regulator.

If I had been able to read how to do it before I did it, it would have taken me much less time! It's not a particularly difficult job, when you know how to do it, and I would encourage anyone to give it a go.

Before I started I gaffa taped my window in the fully up-right position to give me access.

Firstly, remove the door card. The video below is brilliant at showing you how to do this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MidwEBcELbU

My car differed to the video, in that it has a light in the bottom of the door card which needed to be unplugged too (bottom circle in green below). When the door card is finally off you will see this.



Start by unplugging the speaker cable and the cable to the regulator, but to help you out the green circles are showing (from top-left to right then down):

1) Electric windows switch (you need to unplug this from the door card)
2) Speaker cable (you need to unplug)
3) Window regulator switch (you need to unplug)
4) Green cable tie (take long-nose part of pliers and pull out. Remember to bend the legs back into shape before putting in when you reassemble)
5) Cable to light in door card (you need to unplug this from the door card)

Then unscrew the left hand side of the black plastic bracket circled in white below (I unscrewed mine before I took the photo). Then unscrew the right-hand side, but not fully, so you can swing the bracket around and out the way. Screw the screw back into the left-hand side of the bracket, so you don't lose it!



Then unscrew whatever this unit is and let it hang:



Then unscrew the three screws holding the speaker on (circled in yellow). Once the screws are out the speaker will come out. The speaker has three legs on the back of it to locate it correctly in the hole. I yanked it a bit hard and one of the legs snapped, but it didn't affect me putting it back in the hole after I had finished the job.



I don't have a photo of my door with the speaker removed, but once it is removed, you can get your hand in the hole to remove the white and yellow clips from the window. However, at this point let me explain how the window clips to the regulator using the next three photos.

Here is the "new" window regulator (£32 off ebay from Skan 4x4 breakers). You can see a yellow clip on the top left hand side and a white clip on the top right. These clips have a nipple in the middle of them which locate themselves in the holes in the glass pane (see below). One clip moves the window up and the other moves it down:



The "nipple" [snigger snigger]



Note the holes at the bottom of the pane of glass.



This is where it gets a tiny bit tricky. If you undo the gaffa tape holding your window up and allow the window to drop a bit, you will be able to look through the hole where the speaker was and see this:



This is the white clip in situ. Put you hand through the hole and use what ever flat object you can find (I used a plastic pollyfiller spatula) and try and jam it down the side of the glass between the glass and the white clip, to push the nipple back and out of the hole. The white one is much easier than the yellow one as the yellow one requires you to put your whole arm though the hole to reach it. I managed to partially unclip it, which was enough for it to come off when I took the regulator out.

To remove the regulator, unscrew the bolts outlined below. But to help, I really found this video useful (ignore the bit about pulling the purple loop thing, and removing the side-window channel):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixynDOHo1bQ

Once the bolts are undone, turn the regulator 90 degrees clockwise and push it back a bit to allow the bolts to clear the holes. I forced mine a bit and the yellow clip connected to the pane of glass (not the yellow clip shown in the photo) came off.



Once the regulator was out, you can see what the issue was (the cables had snapped), which is why the window wasn't going up or down.



Once you have the regulator out, it's just the reverse of the above to put the new one back in. Gaffa tape the window back up, bolt in the new regulator, undo the gaffa tape and gently lower the window until the glass "snaps" into the plastic clips, put the speaker back in, reconnect all the wires, BUT before you put the door card back on properly on, reconnect the window switch, and check it works!

You will need to reset the window by doing the following:

1. Open the window fully (don't worry if it doesn't go down all the way)
2. Release the switch, then lift it to the close position and hold for two seconds (it might drop a little as you hold it up, but don't worry)
3. Open the window fully.
4. Release the switch, then push it to the close position and hold for two seconds.
5. Lift and release the switch to operate the one touch function.
6. Repeat the procedure on each window or if the window still isn't set, keep repeating the steps above.

Then reconnect the light at the bottom of the door card, if you have one, reconnect the electric window switch and the cable to open the door catch, and then clip the door card back in position. If I can offer a bit of advice here, it would be to take a photo of the rubber seal at the bottom of the window opening and the clips it sits on. Mine came off when I was messing around with the glass and it took me a little while to figure out how they went back on. In the end I removed them from the seal and clipped them back on the door, then clipped in the rubber seal. The ends of the clips go into the door card holding it in place.

...and that, my friends, is that!

Any questions, please ask.

Last edited by MrPotatoHead on 16th Dec 2015 6:50 pm. Edited 8 times in total

Great write up, the 'whatever this unit is' you mentioned is your door module, controls door locks, mirrors and windows.  2014 SE Loire Blue SD4 Auto (MY15)
Gone - 2011 GS Baltic Blue, Retrofit Electric Leather, Side Steps, 19"SC's, Roof Rails, TT Sat Nav Mod, Retrofit Premium Audio, Retro fit 2013 Xenons with DRL & Sig Strip (Clutch at 47k)
Gone - 2007 GS Narvik Black, Privacy Glass, 19" SC's, Side Steps,Roof Rails, Roof Spoiler, Lamp Guards, Retrofit Electric Leather (Clutch at 115k)
Gone - 2007 SE Santorini Black (Clutch at 120k)
BT IID (best money ever spent on a car)

Quote:

Great write up, the 'whatever this unit is' you mentioned is your door module, controls door locks, mirrors and windows.

Thank you

Felt I had to give something back, as many people helped me!

And thanks for the technical clarification...was pretty certain LR didn't call it a "whatever"

You could get a job at Haynes with that lot