I need some help!

My 2009 FL2 Td4 2.2e manual has recently developed a judder/vibration when under power - when accelerating or applying power when in motion (not standing still or idle). It happens at all speeds, in any gear, in a straight line and when turning.

The vibration stops when the power is no longer applied - under steady speed or decelerating.

There are no noises, clunks, rattles or bangs. I have eliminated problems with tracking, wheel balance etc. The tyres are holding pressure and seem fine. The engine is smooth and gear changes all fine. The lower arm bushes are a bit worn as are the ARBs but they have been like that for some time.

The other thing to mention is that the car received a low speed impact to the front near side recently and there was no apparent damage on inspection except for a few scuffs and a bit of bent wheel arch.

I have read a lot of threads on here about drive train problems and wonder if there is a drive train problem - perhaps drive shaft related.

Last edited by RRBlue on 9th Jul 2022 12:38 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Mine has what I can only describe as an instability under higher power outputs, between 1900 and 2600 RPM.
Also I get an occasional single cylinder drop out under the same conditions when the engine is cold.

I'm putting it down to a single injector not performing as well as the other three.
I've not really had much time or inclination to discover the exact cause yet, as for the most part, it doesn't interfere with how I use the vehicle. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, the daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Have you had the tracking checked?

Vibration under load may be a combination of a worn cv joint or drive shaft and weak / worn rear control arm bushes, or even both these and a worn/damaged track rod end. I had similar (the common 1700-1900RPM auto judder under load). Rear bushes were worn and I had a small amount of play on the inner track rod end. Changed the control arm and bushes, put a new track rod on and much better, but still some vibration. I wasn't happy with the state of the CV joint based solely on how old it appeared to be (probably original) so put a new one on (complete driveshaft and CV) and all vibration under load gone.

First check would be alignment, which should show up any play in the track rod ends. After that you know you need new control arm bushes anyway, and while the control arm is off the driveshaft / CV joint is a dead easy job. Up to you if you just go with the bushes first and see if that works if you don't fancy the cost of a driveshaft when it may not be needed. Current driveway contents:
2021 V60 Cross Country B5
2009 FL2 dog bus and shooting wagon

On Order: 2023 Fisker Ocean Ultra - deposit paid.

Thank you. I know it is not the engine judder problem as I have cured that after all sorts jiggers pokery.

I agree with the drive shaft/Control arm theory. b I think the recent impact may have undermined what was left of the fluid bush on the control arm.

Thank you.

Engine Mount (the oil filled one) ?
just done mine 100% better and mechanics I
spoke to didn't think that would be the cause.  DAVE.

Problem solved.

Replaced drive shafts and judder gone. Also took the opportunity to replace lower wishbones. Had a close look at engine mounts and seem ok.

Different car.

Result!

And thanks for updating with the outcome  Current driveway contents:
2021 V60 Cross Country B5
2009 FL2 dog bus and shooting wagon

On Order: 2023 Fisker Ocean Ultra - deposit paid.

After a while starting to notice a twitch under heavy acceleration from a standing start.

On checking notice that one of the bolts holding the lower wishbone in place (on the fluid bush) was loose. Could not tighten as the threads were stripped. Finally got it off and replace with a new bolt and now fine.

Always tempting to reuse rusty bolts, but never again.

All the front suspension bolts on the Freelander 2 are stretch bolts, so should only be used once anyway. Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate. The family car.
2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Gone.
2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE. Gone.
Audi A5 convertible, the daily driver.
1972 Hillman Avenger GT, the project.

Is there a way of telling a stretch bolt from an ordinary bolt ? Jules

Another thing for me to learn about something that I had no idea about.

It seems that these bolts are as Nodge says be used only once.

They are used during the manufacture of cars to save everything from needing to go back to the garage to be re-torqued after initial sale.

Those who are old enough can remember (I had forgotten!) that we used have to return the car after its first 1000miles to have the oil and filter changed and all the nuts and bolt checked and tightened.

Luckily these extra early services have gone the way of the need for me to use my grease gun.

https://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/stretchbolts.html

I now wonder about the friends of mine that when restoring their motorbikes change most of the nuts and bolts for chromed shiny ones which look nicer. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 85k+ miles) (MY2015)
Metro in its 12th Year of (Extended) LR Warranty / Full LR Service History
(Expensive, but Trouble/Worry free - hopefully?)

RRBlue wrote:

Problem solved.

Replaced drive shafts and judder gone. Also took the opportunity to replace lower wishbones. Had a close look at engine mounts and seem ok.

Different car.

jules wrote:

Is there a way of telling a stretch bolt from an ordinary bolt ?

thanks Jules