Sean x,
It's good to see the post is still useful. The chap on youtube uses red steering fluid:it should be green if you use LR. He may have used an alternative Pentosin CHF202 as I don't know what colour that is. - 2007(57) XS Auto, Rimini Red, Alpaca Leather.
- GCS Hawke - Sports, BRG, Vulcan 2.1 inj'. My toy - built it myself in 2001.

Previous informative posts on this subject have stated 2 litres of fluid is required to do the change/flush - anybody know how much the power system actually holds when the reservoir is at correct operating level?

The guy in the youtube video seemed to be pumping a lot out of the old reservoir whilst flushing and I was curious as to whether 2 litres would be enough? I have had a good look at the forum, manuals and google but cannot find a definitive amount contained in the system. Sure one of you knowledgeable chaps will know the answer.....

Thank you

LR Topix does not state a capacity, but their procedure does state that a flush will be complete when 4 litres has passed through the system.

Click image to enlarge

Just done mine, driven 300 miles today with lovely easy steering and no pump strain noises, grrrreat! Unfortunately my tailgate lock has failed and wont lock now, far from home with a boot full of 'stuff' and 2 kids - aaarghhhh.

Dave007,
It took me very little fluid before the fluid coming out was clear green with no sign of contamination. I would guess the system capacity is well below 2 litres and maybe not much over one litre. I had plenty left over from 2 litres to top-up after refilling the system. I suppose it depends how badly contaminated the system is so more fluid may be needed than I used if it is particularly badly contaminated. - 2007(57) XS Auto, Rimini Red, Alpaca Leather.
- GCS Hawke - Sports, BRG, Vulcan 2.1 inj'. My toy - built it myself in 2001.

Excellent replies as ever on this great site - think I'll withdraw a syringe full first from the reservoir and see whats what then take it from there.

I'll take some pics as well if I do carry out the flush and reservoir change and try and document it - I've had help from the forum so its only fair to try and help others, if I can.

Thanks guys

Mine took a litre and a quarter in total, but I emptied and cleaned the old reservoir and filter first and refilled it to flush through sediment and catch it in the older finer mesh (if that's right). Cleaning the old filter allowed me to then use the old reservoir as a receptacle on the next stage when flushing new fluid around the system as it was so blocked that the fluid just wouldn't pump through it easily before.
It might have been possible to do with 1 litre if I didnt use up 1/8th litre on the first clean and flush round.
.

I started this post in 2011 and the fix worked well for over two years and 20k miles. However, the steering got heavy again and was unpredictable and felt lumpy but with no whine from the pump. A quick check of the reservoir and no sign of a flow of fluid so checked the reservoir filter and fluid colour which both appear to be OK. I replaced the pump which a bit tricky easing off the tensioner on the serpentine belt. I ended up using a small trolley jack above the arch and a loop of rope! I believe there is special tool for the job.

With the new pump fitted and it feels a bit better but still feels notchy and heavier than it should so it looks like the rack needs replacing. Has anybody attempted this as a DIY job? How tricky is it and are any special tools required? - 2007(57) XS Auto, Rimini Red, Alpaca Leather.
- GCS Hawke - Sports, BRG, Vulcan 2.1 inj'. My toy - built it myself in 2001.

Check Superspark's posts, he changed his Rack, so maybe some pointers in his posts or gallery  p****d off with a Digital Keyboard Warrior

My steering started getting heavy recently. Looked inside the reservoir and saw tiny bubbles. The pump wasn't making a noise and if the steering wheel was turned while the engine was running, the level in the reservoir dropped proving that the pump was getting some supply.
So without further ado, fitted a new reservoir today and back flushed the system and all is fine.
No weld splatter found either.
I did the same 3 years ago.

This fix needs to be carried out asap in order to prevent damage to the pump and rack . Another member of the failed FL2 clutch/DMF club, twice.

See my post on 'steering knock' due to PS filter clogging, and this is a common problem. I was lucky that LR picked up the whole bill for my 08 reg last week. So they can be very understanding. Was GS TD4 Auto, Privacy, Santorini with Tundra & Alpaca, Cold Climate Pack. Traded for Discovery Sport HSE Auto.

i googled this topic since my freelander had been whining
hey presto top marks for this post EXACTLY as discussed took me an hour and a half without interruptions and saved a fortune

just a little footnote here...I took the car for its MOT to Landrover in Doncaster 2 years ago...ring ring..needs a new track rod end nearside...ok how much....well sir it will need a new steering rack and reservoir since its all connected..what????

Ive been fiddling with cars for over 40 years now and have never heard such nonsense...are you sure ...yes sit it will cost £629...I'll take it home n do it myself thanks...Local motorist centre...£21 sir same unit as the mondeo....

rang Land rover again....explained to the manager...got an email saying the guy I had spoken to is a salesman not a mechanic and didnt know what he was talking about...he was obviously reading the internal message verbatim since Ive read it on here since regarding this issue


how many poor innocents have been ripped off though by these people repairing their faults at our expense...???

I wonder if the car had been on extended warranty with the MOT failure protection whether Land Rover would have paid for the whole steering rack job? A dealer once told me that if you had an extended warranty it was great for them since they could earn money on fixing your problems so everybody was happy (except JLR).

If the pump and reservoir are changed only initially, and the real cause is the rack after all, is there a chance to damage the newly installed pump cause of a defective rack?

I would assume the answer is no, as the new reservoirs filter job would be to catch the weld platter, if it filters all in/out oil

Would appreciate your feedback

superspark wrote:

Heres a quick check you can do to see if your filter is blocked.
While the engine is ticking over undo the resivour cap of the power steering tank, as you look inside you should see a nice calm flow of oil in a kind of dome shape.
There should be NO bubles, if you see lots of bubles and erratic disturbance then the pump is struggling to pump the oil round the system due to the filter being part blocked.
Remedy, replace filter and oil as discribed in earlier posts on this topic