Hi All,went back to landrover today about several faults i have on the car and this is what they said to me.

1,Seatbelt wear on the B pillar.

2,Rusty plate that holds the towbar electrics fitted 8 months ago.

3,Rusty locking wheel nuts.

4,Slipping clutch after only 20,000 miles,as most others i have read about on here,5th - 6th gear and slipping about 300 rpm then recovering.

5,Drivers side top rail mount not fitting properly from new.

1,Ive not seen this before but will look into it for you.

2,Ok will might have to order one in for you or i might have to get the body shop to repaint it.

3,We will order in some new locking wheel nuts

4,Never heard of a clutch slipping before as i have described but will check with landrover and take it from there.

5,Will order a new drivers side rail as the old one looks deformed now.

So they have said they will contact me with in a week and book it in to be done the week after.
Whats the odds on this happening and all the problems being fixed first time arround??????????
I would be very shocked if this realy happened,will keep you posted

Did you buy a lottery ticket?


I have a strange sensation when changing up gears in as much that when you release the clutch & just as you put your foot back on the accelerator the vehicle sometimes hesitates/pulls back for a split second but it has been to two dealers & they said there is nothing wrong!!
I have never had this on any of my other cars or cars I have driven.
BUT THE COMPUTER SAYS NO!!

I have rang LR customer resolutions but heard nothing. I left a message on their answerphone saying perhaps the best solution was me to park it somewhere & hope something hits it & writes it off!!
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Freelander 2 HSE. 2010 model year.
Rimini Red & Storm Grey With Accessories,

Hi EV
I know from first hand experience how demoralising it can be when you buy something new and it fails to meet the standard expected. I have had two cars - a Renault scenic and a Vauxhall Zafira (stangely they were the mk 2 versions in both cases) that spent more time in the dealers workshop than on my drive. The Scenic in particular caused a loss of sleep as I did more miles in the courtesy car than my own. The Vauxhall broke down the week after I bought it (follwed by new brakes, new turbo, new wheels etc etc). On both occassions these cars were to replace the Mk1 version of the same car that had proved it's worth - I expected a major step forward and got nothing but issues.

In defence of the LR dealers I can honestly say that they have addressed every single issue I have had with both my Freelies maybe not sirst time (we have to order parts.....) but they have never caused me to think that i would hand back the car and walk away.

I know that our experiences of dealerships is varied - try to find a good one who will work with you - maybe then you would come back. As for Renault and Vauxhall NEVER again!!!
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There's always a way forward!

2008 Freelander Td4 GS - Stornoway Grey

Executive Valeter wrote:

When changing up gears in as much that when you release the clutch & just as you put your foot back on the accelerator the vehicle sometimes hesitates/pulls back for a split second but it has been to two dealers & they said there is nothing wrong!!

alex_pescaru wrote:

Executive Valeter wrote:

When changing up gears in as much that when you release the clutch & just as you put your foot back on the accelerator the vehicle sometimes hesitates/pulls back for a split second but it has been to two dealers & they said there is nothing wrong!!

And they were right.
The manual cars have a switch on the clutch pedal which tells the engine ECU to vary the injection advance (and in this way reducing engine torque) in order to not create a shudder when changing gears - on initial stage of depressing the clutch and on the final stage of releasing the clutch.
Maybe your are to quick for the ECU and, when you try to accelerate, the ECU is still in that period of modified advance.
I don't know how is it on a FL2 (because I have an automatic) but on many other cars you can fine tune the position of that switch in order to adapt it to various positions of a clutch pedal during the life of a clutch disk.

Executive Valeter wrote:

And they were right.
The manual cars have a switch on the clutch pedal which tells the engine ECU to vary the injection advance (and in this way reducing engine torque) in order to not create a shudder when changing gears - on initial stage of depressing the clutch and on the final stage of releasing the clutch.
Maybe your are to quick for the ECU and, when you try to accelerate, the ECU is still in that period of modified advance.
I don't know how is it on a FL2 (because I have an automatic) but on many other cars you can fine tune the position of that switch in order to adapt it to various positions of a clutch pedal during the life of a clutch disk.

What a stupid idea that is! Is that to cater for the people that can't drive a manual without jerking a gearbox? I have owned many & driven many other cars, vans, lorries,busses & coaches - most of them manual & none of them do this bloody annoying thing with the clutch.

Cheers Alex for telling me what it is as obviously the dealers don't know as they never mentioned it!

Maybe this is why so many people seem to be getting clutch issues!!
_________________
Freelander 2 HSE. 2010 model year.
Rimini Red & Storm Grey With Accessories,

Executive Valeter wrote:

What a stupid idea that is! Is that to cater for the people that can't drive a manual without jerking a gearbox? I have owned many & driven many other cars, vans, lorries,busses & coaches - most of them manual & none of them do this bloody annoying thing with the clutch.

Cheers Alex for telling me what it is as obviously the dealers don't know as they never mentioned it!

Maybe this is why so many people seem to be getting clutch issues!!