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gazza_TT



Member Since: 06 Mar 2010
Location: South East
Posts: 16

Running in required ?

We are awaiting delivery of our factory new stornway grey fl2 GS and I wanted to know if the car requires a period of "running in" for x number of miles before the engine is bedded in.

I maybe showing my age with this post but its been over 7 years since iI bought a brand new car and back then I had to take it very easy with the car for the first 500 miles.

I'll just get my pipe and slippers and await any replies to my post. 'Very Happy'

Post #63132 10th Mar 2010 8:57 pm
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npinks



Member Since: 28 Jun 2007
Location: Ls25
Posts: 20090

United Kingdom 

I was told no running required but very regular checks of the oil until the car stops absorbing the oil in to the carbon steel (IIRC)

obviously no running in doesn't mean full throttle everywhere Thumbs Up Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

Post #63139 10th Mar 2010 9:10 pm
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ad210358



Member Since: 12 Oct 2008
Location: Here and There
Posts: 7464

England 

Without checking the book it's something like do net exceed 3000 rpm for the first 500 miles, but thena s Nick says keep an eye on the oil. p****d off with a Digital Keyboard Warrior

Post #63144 10th Mar 2010 9:37 pm
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alex_pescaru



Member Since: 12 Mar 2009
Location: RO
Posts: 4642

npinks wrote:
until the car stops absorbing the oil in to the carbon steel (IIRC)

There is no such thing. Laughing Laughing Laughing
Just slight rugous surfaces on cylinder walls that allow a slight quantity of oil to enter the combustion chamber and be burnt. This, until a mirror like surface is reached on cylinder walls, which will seal "perfectly" the chamber.

Read the below article carefully until the end.
As it says in the beginning, it could be very controversial for some, but all there makes perfect sense from technical and physics points of view.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Post #63148 10th Mar 2010 9:53 pm
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npinks



Member Since: 28 Jun 2007
Location: Ls25
Posts: 20090

United Kingdom 

Embarassed Im sure I read it somewhere Former Mod/Member, with the most post & Chicken George Arch nemesis

Post #63153 10th Mar 2010 10:17 pm
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oldsteve



Member Since: 21 Feb 2010
Location: here and there
Posts: 12

I've owned several diesel engined cars from new and always follow the rule "diesel engines should be used but not abused". My understanding is that you should not labour the engine by driving in too high a gear and use the rev range once the engine has warmed through. Diesel engines perform better under load

For running in avoid sitting at constant revs for long periods of time. I loosely follow the running in procedure detailed here:
http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/faq/running-in-a-diesel

I still regularly give my car an "Italian tune-up" by giving it an occasional blast through the full rev range - Note that the engine should be fully warmed up beforehand. This is especially useful pre MOT for gently driven diesel engined cars, you will amazed at the muck it clears out.

Steve

Post #63164 10th Mar 2010 11:13 pm
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vibecy



Member Since: 29 Oct 2009
Location: Nicosia
Posts: 49

Cyprus 

Im awaiting delivery next week as well and was looking around for running in.

@alex & @oldsteve:

Guys you posted two different running in methods and quite honestly im puzzled now. Which one is the proper one to go with? Question

Post #63178 11th Mar 2010 7:11 am
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alex_pescaru



Member Since: 12 Mar 2009
Location: RO
Posts: 4642

There is no need to be puzzled.
The methods can be combined and to be honest I've done a combination of both with my Freely.
In fact, from the Mototuneusa must be kept in mind that the pressure is the thing that pushes the rings against the cylinder's wall (contributing to forming that mirror like finish of the cylinder wall), so the engine must be driven hard - on boost - in order to generate the required pressure. Remember - it's a turbo diesel engine and the efficiency max out on boost.
From the second, there are some limits about RPM range.
But they are not excluding each other. You can combine them.
Drive hard from mile 0 (but only after the engine has warm up - very important) until the RPM stated in the second method (honestjohn) are reached. The idea is to vary the load of the engine as much as possible, avoiding constant RPMs.

Post #63179 11th Mar 2010 8:14 am
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Udash



Member Since: 23 Apr 2009
Location: manchester
Posts: 195

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Zermatt Silver

This is what manual says,

RUNNING-IN
The engine, transmission, tyres, and brakes need time to bed-in. During the first 800 km (500 miles) it is essential that the vehicle is driven with consideration for the running-in process. During the running in period the
following advice should be followed.
• Limit the engine speed to a maximum of 3000 rpm, and the road speed to a maximum of 110 km/h (68 mph).
• Do not use full accelerator pedal travel, and use the gears to avoid over-revving or
labouring the engine.
• Do not use sport mode during the running in period.
• Avoid rapid acceleration or heavy braking wherever possible.
• Ensure that servicing is carried out on time, and follow any advice regarding use in arduous conditions.
Note: The advice given for running in will aid
fuel economy, and should be adopted as
general driving practice even after the running
in period. Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto
Zermatt Silver
Side Steps & Mud flaps

Post #63188 11th Mar 2010 10:06 am
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gazza_TT



Member Since: 06 Mar 2010
Location: South East
Posts: 16

UDASH - Thats interesting information. Thanks for the info.

I best let my wife drive it for the first 500 Smile

Post #63198 11th Mar 2010 11:58 am
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vibecy



Member Since: 29 Oct 2009
Location: Nicosia
Posts: 49

Cyprus 

alex_pescaru wrote:
There is no need to be puzzled.
The methods can be combined and to be honest I've done a combination of both with my Freely.
In fact, from the Mototuneusa must be kept in mind that the pressure is the thing that pushes the rings against the cylinder's wall (contributing to forming that mirror like finish of the cylinder wall), so the engine must be driven hard - on boost - in order to generate the required pressure. Remember - it's a turbo diesel engine and the efficiency max out on boost.
From the second, there are some limits about RPM range.
But they are not excluding each other. You can combine them.
Drive hard from mile 0 (but only after the engine has warm up - very important) until the RPM stated in the second method (honestjohn) are reached. The idea is to vary the load of the engine as much as possible, avoiding constant RPMs.


Land Rover should hire you alex Very Happy It's amazing how much you know about cars, both electrical and mechanical parts. Thank you once again.

Post #63199 11th Mar 2010 1:20 pm
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