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Sand Driving

Topic Location: http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic4239.html
Printed on: 9th Sep 2010 9:15 am

mikehzz
Joined: 04 Sep 2009
Posts: 68
Posted: 6th Sep 2009 8:45 am
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Hello All.

I've been to Stockton Beach just near Newcastle NSW in the Freelander about 6 times now and thought I would share what I have found out about the FL2. Also, I hope that others might chip in their tips and tricks so I can try them as well.
1. Tyre pressure - 15 to 20 psi depending on how fluffy the sand is.

2. If using sand mode on no load situations (just sort of cruising) then switch to command shift and drive it manually. It stays in first too long while in auto, uses too much fuel and heats up the transmission.

3. For really big loads like racing up the huge dunes at Stockton, back to auto and definately switch off the DSC. The DSC cuts in right when you don't want it to and you are left with no power when you need it most.

4. If you do get stuck, and I have been stuck up to the floor pan, clear the tracks a bit behind the tyres, switch to Mud & Ruts and reverse back. I haven't been bogged since doing that. I got stuck up to the floor a few weeks ago and some guys on the next dune thought I was a goner and needed snatching. By the time they got to me I had already driven out much to their surprise.

5. Don't rev too much when it looks like you are getting stuck or your wheels will end up spinning in mid air...there's no driving out from that position. Your wheels need to still have some ground under them.

The dunes are massive at Stockton and getting up some of them is a real challenge. My FL2 has made it quite easily where some Land Cruisers, Patrols and Pajeros etc have had real trouble, in some cases they have given up after 7-8 attempts.

I hope this helps. Does anyone disagree with any of the comments? Also feel free to add some.

Cheers
Mike
Dorko
Joined: 03 Jul 2008
Posts: 293
Posted: 6th Sep 2009 8:58 am
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I agree, in sand always use the manual gears and turn off the DSC. The gears are held too long and DSC is a pain in the butt on sand.

Dorko
mikehzz
Joined: 04 Sep 2009
Posts: 68
Posted: 6th Sep 2009 10:05 am
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Have you tried the mud/ruts when you are stuck in heavy stuff? It seems to lock the diff and give high revs with less wheel spin. Has worked a treat for me.
Dorko
Joined: 03 Jul 2008
Posts: 293
Posted: 6th Sep 2009 1:03 pm
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I've tried it a few times, works well as long as you havent bogged it to the belly Laughing

I find as soon as you stop in really soft sand, reverse a bit and then go forward... the amounts of time i have bogged myself by just going forward is embrassing... i learnt this will save you getting the maxtrax out and your mate laughing at you Embarassed

Dorko
trackman50
Joined: 14 Feb 2010
Posts: 2
Posted: 14th Feb 2010 12:11 pm
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Why did'nt I see this a couple of weeks ago! I Was following a late model Nissan Pathfinder on Morton Island who got stuck near Blue Lakes going in and going out on sand my F2 had easily traversed. With the Nissan blocking the track I tried to back up to an alternate route only to succeed in burying it up to its belly. Do any of the "dial up functions" Banging Head work in reverse? javascript:emoticon('Banging Head')
mikehzz
Joined: 04 Sep 2009
Posts: 68
Posted: 14th Feb 2010 12:41 pm
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Yes they do. I usually use the mud ruts program for reversing out of soft sand situations as the sand program spins the wheels too easy which just buries you pretty quick.
Wintermute
Joined: 30 Dec 2009
Posts: 158
Posted: 14th Feb 2010 8:11 pm
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mikehzz wrote:

1. Tyre pressure - 15 to 20 psi depending on how fluffy the sand is.


What wheels / tyres you got on yours mate?
mikehzz
Joined: 04 Sep 2009
Posts: 68
Posted: 15th Feb 2010 12:42 pm
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I've got standard 17" alloys with Geolander ATS tyres. I reckon bigger rims (18's or 19's) would make sand driving pretty hard.
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