Help. New to the Freelander, just taken my daughters from her to see if I can 'sort' it. She's had it a year and won't drive it now, it's 'stopped' on her 3 times and has been in various garages/auto electricians for most of the year. When it stops it's dead, nothing at all. Gets it towed to a garage, gazillions of faults when diagnosed, too many for
the various Land Rover experts and others to decipher, so 2 crank sensors later. It happened again. Thing is after it's arrived at these repair shops it just starts up again as if nothing happened. To add, it's had an intermittent battery light on dash, stop/start and it goes off. It's off much more than on. Got a new battery too as a supposed fix to the stopping issue. Seems to charge at under 14 when battery lights on. Over 14 when it's off. So I've been driving it for 2 weeks. Other than dead flat battery at start of 2 weeks, it's been great, actually drives really well for a 16+Yr car. And then today, fuel really low it went in to limp. Stopping starting didn't fix it so went and filled it up and fuel tank was under vacuum as it let out a real whoosh when I took fuel cap off and I wondered if that might put it in limp? Also back to normal after filling up. Long post, lots of issues but I wondered if any more knowledgeable contributots might see a connection between all the issues or know of any solutions? Thanks

Might be worth checking the fuel tank senders and their associated wiring as the tank is saddle shaped and has senders in both halves. The gauge may show good fuel level in one half, but the second sender in the other half may show low fuel level to the ecu which will stop the car from running as it can damage the fuel pump if insufficient fuel is available. Are their any fault codes? The varying voltages may be correct as I’m fairly certain the alternators use smart charging based on demand rather than a fixed voltage. Also check your earth connections to the engine. There is a mod somewhere to add a second earth strap to cure some faults.

Thanks. I don't know any of the fault codes. But would the lower voltage trigger the red warning light on the dash?

Yarkie wrote:

And then today, fuel really low it went in to limp.

Thanks, ref fuel. That makes sense.

Worms wrote:

Yarkie wrote:

And then today, fuel really low it went in to limp.

Well, it depends just how low is really low... But it is meant to do that. It goes into limp mode to help you get to a garage or off the motorway safely.

Battery charging problems - see blue wire posts

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic36375.html?highlight=blue+wire

Intermittent fuel gauge / Limp Mode - see fuel gauge sensor posts

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic30934.html?highlight=fuel+gauge

To work on the FL2 you really need an OBD Reader to find out what the FL2 thinks is wrong. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

Update:
It's just died on me sat in traffic at a junction, up to then no warning lights, running great and then with the engine idling the engine just stopped, and then nothing when the start /stop was pressed or when the key was re-introduced. Tried the spare key too, it goes in but the panel is black and no system check or ignition when pushing stop/start button. Checked heater fan, electric windows, central locking which all work but the ignition doesn't. Dead as the proverbial.
Not had chance to get any diagnostic equipment as yet, but may be able to get the codes from last time it happened and will post later if possible.
No idea where to start, or what to look at, does anyone else have any idea?
Thanks

Check the electric connections down by the passenger footwell?
Have read on here in the past that one of the main connections works loose and kills everything possibly caused by passengers feet pushing on the main harness.

Has it had an extra earth lead fitted between battery and (normally) starter motor mounting? At least one forum member had 2 years of problems caused by a failure of the conductor in the single battery to earth lead that was fitted to early cars. Later model years had 2 earth leads fitted as standard.
Good call on the footwell fuse box. The connectors down there get forgotten about and lots of systems go through that box so always worth checking.

This became a similar fault and discusses the earthing etc in the passengers footwell

https://www.freel2.com/forum/topic35293.html?highlight=passenger

As said above - wriggly passengers can cause wiring/earthing faults

https://www.freel2.com/forum/search.php?se...rch_time=0 FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

Update to the thread: Auto electrician out - after various tests and checks he suggests ECU fault. (it looks like the ECU has been out of the mountings before and has at least 1 new screw in it)
ECU sent off for testing at ECU testing Ltd Heanor - R&D just came back to me to say they can't do anything as they haven't developed a test yet for this particular ECU. No charge.
Contacted ECU doctor in Plymouth - sending images when I get the ECU back tomorrow as they don't think they have the test for it either but they might be able to clone it or provide replacement.
Just putting this out there in case anyone has any experience with this issue, these companies or this early ECU variant for the 57 Freelander 2 TD4.
I welcome the experience and knowledge you guys can bring.
Thanks

It's unusual and unlikely to be the ECM. They're very reliable.
The ECM also wouldn't stop the ignition lights from coming on. I'd be checking the connections at the CJB for going down the ECM rabbit hole. 2009 Rimini Red SE TD4. Soon to be sold.
Hyundai Ioniq 5 Ultimate on order.
Gone. 2006 Tonga Green i6 HSE.

Update and apologies for how long it's taken as its been stood with 2 different auto electricians out to it. As advised it's unlikely the ECM, I've had it tested with no faults found. 2nd auto electrician added extra earth cable and cleaned all connections on original, identified radio as draining battery (fuse removed) and alternator regulator not 100% but suggested not a reason for concern. Checked and cleaned electrical connectors in passenger footwell and took BCM out. Anyone reading this know if the BCM circuit boards are usually loose or fixed solid, he identified one side that was loose and the pins may / may not have always connected, maybe with vibration perhaps causing the issue first reported. The car hasn't stopped since but not done much mileage yet.

Thanks for update, hope all goes well from now on. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)