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Steveg



Member Since: 03 Feb 2019
Location: Tyneside
Posts: 4

United Kingdom 
Clutch question

Hi, just got my freelander so please excuse my stupid questions! The clutch pedal is around 1-2 cm higher than the brake pedal and is a bit uncomfortable to hover my foot over, bite is nice and low though. Is the height right? Also i can pull away in 3rd and the car will move without pressing the accelerator? That normal too?
Thanks

Post #366903 19th Feb 2019 5:37 pm
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captin



Member Since: 19 Oct 2016
Location: rochester
Posts: 110

United Kingdom 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Manual Zermatt Silver

you sure you mean 3rd ? 1st yes but 3rd maybe if your tick over is 1500?

Post #367930 6th Mar 2019 8:06 pm
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sid



Member Since: 17 Jul 2015
Location: devon
Posts: 479

England 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Manual Stornoway Grey

the ecu will increase the revs to avoid the engine stalling

Post #367937 6th Mar 2019 9:06 pm
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Worms



Member Since: 31 Oct 2017
Location: Highlands
Posts: 635

Scotland 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e GS Manual Zermatt Silver

I find on mine that on the flat, with careful, slow, clutch release, the car will crawl in all gears at under 1,000 rpm with no accelerator input. It will also cope well on inclines, but naturally as the incline increases, the maximum gear it will handle reduces. I’ve yet to accurately work out what the steepest incline it will manage in first is, but it copes with the hairpins on the Bealach na Ba with no accelerator input. 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

Post #367959 7th Mar 2019 8:56 am
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Yorky Bob



Member Since: 28 Apr 2015
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 4561

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Firenze Red

Should have bought a auto. Laughing Why would you want to burn out a clutch by setting off in third gear in one of these Shocked FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Post #367960 7th Mar 2019 9:06 am
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Worms



Member Since: 31 Oct 2017
Location: Highlands
Posts: 635

Scotland 2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e GS Manual Zermatt Silver

Smile you are probably right about the auto! Can’t see any reason to routinely ever pull away from rest in higher gears (well not in a 4x4) but surely we all want to explore the outer reaches of the vehicle’s capabilities and the ECU seems to be an amazing bit of kit! 2005 D3 2.7 Auto
Previously:
2010 MY FL2 TD4e GS - Now gone at 199,500 miles, about 135,000 of them mine.
‘93 Defender 110 200TDi CSW
‘87 Defender 90 4 cyl Petrol
‘83 110 CSW V8 - best ever!
Range Rover 2-door V8 (not sure of year - 4-speed box and vacuum diff switch)
Series III SWB Diesel

Post #367962 7th Mar 2019 9:56 am
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IanMetro



Member Since: 11 Sep 2017
Location: Somerset BS21
Posts: 2768

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 Metropolis LE Auto Fuji White

It may be my past driving style with manual cars, but why do you need to hover over clutch.

I was taught to either use my clutch or put my foot on the floor.

My driving instructor had a stick which he used to push your feet around if you did not move decisively.

I suppose it was 1960 style 'Dual Control'. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

Post #367963 7th Mar 2019 10:04 am
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Steveg



Member Since: 03 Feb 2019
Location: Tyneside
Posts: 4

United Kingdom 

Worms wrote:
I find on mine that on the flat, with careful, slow, clutch release, the car will crawl in all gears at under 1,000 rpm with no accelerator input. It will also cope well on inclines, but naturally as the incline increases, the maximum gear it will handle reduces. I’ve yet to accurately work out what the steepest incline it will manage in first is, but it copes with the hairpins on the Bealach na Ba with no accelerator input.


Same as mine then, thanks.

Post #367964 7th Mar 2019 10:04 am
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