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thabogrobler



Member Since: 16 Sep 2014
Location: Pretoria
Posts: 51

South Africa 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 S Auto Baltic Blue
Another suspension noise

Click image to enlarge

I have a suspension noise that is really annoying!

It is from the right front side, every imperfection on the road makes a clunk sound.

Recently had new Bilstein shocks and shocks fitted and 2000km later I did 75km of badly corrugated dirt road and the the noise started. I already checked the screw on air inlet under the indicator on the left side.

My thoughts is that the noise is coming from the wishbone - on the front joint I can see metal. Could this be it?

Last edited by thabogrobler on 1st Jan 2019 6:20 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Post #362822 1st Jan 2019 12:44 pm
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IanMetro



Member Since: 11 Sep 2017
Location: Somerset BS21
Posts: 2747

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 Metropolis LE Auto Fuji White

Anti Roll Bar Links?
http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic30877.htm...roll+links

From search
http://www.freel2.com/forum/search.php?sea...rch_time=0

I have had these drop links fail on several of my (nonFL2) giving clunking over bumps. Also had similar with fractured (not fully broken) suspension spring. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 74k+ miles) (MY2015)


Last edited by IanMetro on 1st Jan 2019 8:17 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Post #362833 1st Jan 2019 3:37 pm
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thabogrobler



Member Since: 16 Sep 2014
Location: Pretoria
Posts: 51

South Africa 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 S Auto Baltic Blue

Click image to enlarge


Is that the Anti roll bars links? The circled part is where I can see metal between the rubber.

Post #362848 1st Jan 2019 6:26 pm
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Kage



Member Since: 03 Oct 2018
Location: Midlands
Posts: 223

Is it just me being stupid or is there a nut and washer missing from there? 😳

Post #362853 1st Jan 2019 7:17 pm
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thabogrobler



Member Since: 16 Sep 2014
Location: Pretoria
Posts: 51

South Africa 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 S Auto Baltic Blue

No idea!

If there is indeed something missing it would explain a lot!

Post #362859 1st Jan 2019 8:03 pm
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Kage



Member Since: 03 Oct 2018
Location: Midlands
Posts: 223

In the circled part of the picture.......🤓

Post #362862 1st Jan 2019 8:34 pm
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IanMetro



Member Since: 11 Sep 2017
Location: Somerset BS21
Posts: 2747

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 Metropolis LE Auto Fuji White

It looks like the ball bush for the lower wishbone.

Work shop manual says
The lower control arm assembly comprises the control arm, a rubber bush, a hydrabush and a ball joint.
The control arm is a pressed steel fabrication. The outer end is fitted with a non-serviceable taper ball joint which mates with the wheel knuckle.
The 2 inner attachments locate in the subframe. The forward attachment is a non-serviceable rubber bush which is pressed into the control arm. This joint locates in a slot in the subframe and is secured with a bolt which is screwed into a threaded boss on the subframe.
The rearward attachment is a hydrabush which is located on a spigot on the control arm. The hydrabush has 2 welded brackets which provides for its attachment to the subframe with 2 bolts and nuts. The hydrabush contains hydraulic fluid and valves which allow controlled displacement of the bush to improve bump and handling characteristics and also reduce road noise transmission. The bush becomes progressively stiffer as the forces on it increase, such as severe braking.

Unless it's internally broken it looks ok to me.


The Stabiliser Bar link (to give it it's proper name) is the long vertical bar in your picture going between the end of othe Stabiliser Bar and to a point on the Damper Strut just below the Front Spring.

The stabilizer bar is attached to the rear of the subframe with bushes and mounting brackets. The pressed steel brackets locate over the bushes and are attached to the cross member with bolts screwed into threaded locations in the subframe. The stabilizer bar has 'anti-shuffle' collars pressed in position on the inside edges of the bushes. The collars prevent sideways movement of the stabilizer bar.
The stabilizer bar is manufactured from 20.5 mm diameter, manganese steel bar. Each end of the stabilizer bar curves forwards to attach to a ball joint on a stabilizer link. Each stabilizer link is secured to a bracket on the damper body with a locknut. The links, which are not handed, allow the stabilizer bar to move with the wheel travel providing maximum effectiveness.
The stabilizer bar bushes are the compression type which grip the bar under compression by the mounting brackets. When fitting replacement bushes, it is important to ensure the bushes are correctly orientated to the bar. Failure to correctly align the bushes will result in excessive pre-load (wind-up) in the bushes when the suspension is at its nominal ride height


http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic32299.htm...hop+manual FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 74k+ miles) (MY2015)

Post #362863 1st Jan 2019 8:36 pm
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Kage



Member Since: 03 Oct 2018
Location: Midlands
Posts: 223

I'll get my coat 🤐

Post #362864 1st Jan 2019 8:52 pm
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Dragore



Member Since: 16 Aug 2017
Location: North West
Posts: 66

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 HST Manual Zermatt Silver

Kage wrote:
Is it just me being stupid or is there a nut and washer missing from there? 😳


I'm definitely with you seems to be a nut missing there on the top might not have been torqued up fully during the suspension rebuild and the corrugated surface has worked it away. If your going through hell, keep going!

Wrapper of rear pillars 😀

Post #363531 11th Jan 2019 6:55 pm
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IanMetro



Member Since: 11 Sep 2017
Location: Somerset BS21
Posts: 2747

United Kingdom 2014 Freelander 2 SD4 Metropolis LE Auto Fuji White

If you download the Workshop Manual in https://www.dropbox.com/s/n0e6q5jj1l1fe2z/...6-2010.pdf

then find a diagram of the Lower Control Arm on page 201 of 3229,

have a look, it looks as if the Bolt just screws through the Ball Bush into the subframe. (without a locknut)

or (unlike me) go out in the cold and lie under the car and look. (I haven't looked and may be wrong) FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 74k+ miles) (MY2015)


Last edited by IanMetro on 12th Jan 2019 3:46 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Post #363538 11th Jan 2019 9:24 pm
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thabogrobler



Member Since: 16 Sep 2014
Location: Pretoria
Posts: 51

South Africa 2007 Freelander 2 TD4 S Auto Baltic Blue

Thanks guys,

Everything at the bottom is complete.

The problem was that the shock did not seat 100% in the shock mount, seems it went a rad scew at the bottom and with the corrugated road it worked itself properly into the shock mount but with a mm of 2 of play.

Now for the noisy lower control arm bushes...

Post #363559 12th Jan 2019 3:22 pm
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Largered



Member Since: 10 Jul 2016
Location: UK
Posts: 1978

IanMetro wrote:
If you download the Workshop Manual in https://www.dropbox.com/s/n0e6q5jj1l1fe2z/...6-2010.pdf



That's a good find. Bow down Bow down

.

Post #363563 12th Jan 2019 3:57 pm
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snorkie



Member Since: 18 Feb 2011
Location: pretoria
Posts: 18

Loose drop link?

Hi Guys
Put the car on ramps yesterday to remove sump guard for an oil change.
Took the opportunity to search for source of "clanking" (metallic) noise from right front suspension. Grabbed the linkage (drop link?) connecting the stabilizer to the damper and it felt loose and also made a metallic noise.
Thinking that the nut locating the linkage to the stabilizer was loose, I tried to fasten it, but the whole pin/bolt turned in the ball joint! My reasoning says the pin/bolt should not be turning/moving.
How does one fasten the nut without the whole bolt turning? Is there a "bolthead"-like feature on the bolt for fitting a flat spanner while fastening the nut from the other side?
The rubber boot seems to be located by what looks like a circlip type clamp. Can one remove this (how?) and prise the boot sideways to access this "bolthead feature with a flat spanner? In other words - how do I prevent the bolt from turning while fastening the nut?
Any advice and guidance would be appreciated!
Regards Snorkie
Pretoria
South Africa

Post #380288 26th Oct 2019 7:01 am
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