Hi Bob,

thank you for your reply, I will try that with the battery leads. I'm not sure how to crank the engine over by hand. would you be able to advise.

Kind regards,

Emma xx

Get a spanner or socket on the crank shaft pulley bolt and just give it a turn to make sure nothing is touching a valve and locking it. If yours is petrol it will be easier with plugs out but should still move with them in. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Thanks honey, I have just connected the two battery leads and gently held them with a pair of Mole grips. I'm not sure how to access the crank pully without stripping it down again. I did turn it round previously after putting a new timing chain on and the releasing the camshaft(s) locking tool before putting on the front crankshaft seal.


Emma xx

Edit:


Just been back to car, re-connected battery, also used key to open and close but unfortunately has made no difference. Put key in, beeper goes off when key goes in, press key ignition comes on, and reminds me to press footbrake (auto). press footbrake goes through check most of warning lights disappear but red battery illuminates along with yellow engine light.


Ex

Emma,

I'm not familiar with the I6 engine layout,

Did you have to disconnect / remove the starter motor when stripping it down?
Are the starter motor electrical connections all secure?
Are all relevant fuses present and intact?
Have you left an earth lead off the engine perhaps?
Other possibility is a weak / flat battery in the remote key, do you have a second key to try it? Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Hi Bob, thank you for your questions they help enormously with my, ‘What on earth have I missed list’!!
The starter motor is on the bottom of the engine at the rear and wasn’t touched by the work. In the previous work I had replaced the engine loom and there was no problem following that, after replacing the pully(s), waterpump, steering pump, serpentine belt, alternator and hoses the engine started immediately. The problem was that the system was pressurising, hence the need to strip down again and have the head skimmed.
I repatriated the head to OCS in Winchester:
http://www.ocservice.co.uk/services/cylinder-head
They refaced the head and valves plus replaced the stem seals. I took the cams and cam plate with followers and they reset these after machining. The engineer did mention that the cams seemed a bit tight but the engine was running fine before stripping. It would take about 20 minutes to build up pressure in the coolant tank. Using an engineer’s straight edge I assessed the distortion as being 0.1 to 0.2 thou.

I’m confident that I have done the timing correctly as I used all the special tools and followed the procedure:
&t=316s
This in any case though wouldn’t stop the engine from cranking, (I think). I turned the engine after removing the cam and crank setting tools using a ½” wrench.
I’ll go through the fuses.
I also took the opportunity to service the six fuel injectors, I had a Land Rover kit and replaced the red and green seals plus the filters in each injector. I also used a spray attachment with Injector cleaner to clean out the four jets in each one. I replaced the final part of the fuel line as the original one was showing signs of wear. Therefore, the high-pressure fuel rail and injectors were empty when assembled. My thought here is that this may delay starting until petrol comes through but shouldn’t stop cranking? I worked cleanly and used an airline to remove any debris although I will confess that our garage here it isn’t as shiny white as a Land Rover dealers’ floor!!
Please Bob, or anyone reading this, I am not being defensive, I know that I have made a mistake somewhere or missed something because if I hadn’t, the engine would have turned over.
The two main issues seem to be that the battery warning light (red) is active and the yellow check engine / malfunction indicator lamp (MIL). I also have a low coolant level. The MIL indicator could be referring to the fuel rail or other sensors, I’ve gone around and checked the two CKS on the front of the engine and the O2 sensors on the cats and exaust, they are all connected. Of course the indicator could be simply on until the engine cranks and fire’s up?
My feeling is that this is something about the engine immobiliser? I have two keys and both seem fine in that they can activate the locking mechanism. Other than that, I don’t know how to check the batteries in the fob. They have been out of the vehicle for about four months. I use both fobs (alternatively) on the 12-hour journey to and from France/UK so fairly confident that they are in good order, one was new last year and the other had the battery replaced a year or so ago. Both were programmed by an Independent Landy.
I have to be missing something and, in all honesty, every time I try it hope that some magic happened since the last time… sadly the lovey Landy angel must be on another call 😊

Emma xx

Sorry to hear your problems. Do you have a fault code reader?

Does the steering lock release when you insert the key and press the start button?

devondave wrote:

Sorry to hear your problems. Do you have a fault code reader?

dondiddy wrote:

Does the steering lock release when you insert the key and press the start button?

Only thing I can suggest if it is possibly an immobiliser fault is to once again do a hard reset with the battery cables, reconnect the cables, close all the doors bonnet etc and double lock the car. Then leave it for an hour or so until all the systems shut down and go to sleep. Then unlock and try to start right away. Good luck! (It would also be worthwhile putting power to the starter with a jumper cable just to see if it turns over. That way you can eliminate it as a possible problem!)

Hi honey,

thank you. So a hard reset is undoing the battery, connecting positive and negative cables together. then reconnecting and making sure doors and bonnet are closed. At the moment the bonnet has been open for the duration of the work as I have a huge LED floodlight attached to the bonnet lock. Will remove the lamp.

Or do you mean disconnect battery, connect both leads together and then close doors and bonnet/tailgate? Leave for an hour open up bonnet and then reconnect battery?


Kind regards,

Emma x

Emma, Do hard reset(Remove leads, hold together for a couple of minutes then reconnect.) Close bonnet doors etc then lock car. Leave for an hour or so then unlock car(leave bonnet shut)get in, insert key and try to start. Good luck!

Thank you darling, will do that and let you know how I get on.

Finger's and all that crossed

Ex


so, I connected the battery cables together for a few minutes, then reconnected to battery, closed doors, tailgate and bonnet and locked. However with the remote when I tried to lock I just got a beep from the horn, I think, indicating that something wasn't shut. Tried locking with key which it did, (without beep) and went away for un heure (ish).


Sadly on my return no change but despite the bonnet being closed and I heard the click the message on the dash was that the bonnet was still open.

Have also put the battery on charge.

I had removed the front bumper on the previous work but not this time, and the car started last time. However it's not right so I will work my way through the bonnet not closing properly or the sensor not? If anyone has any thoughts on that I'd be grateful.

E x

So frustrating and probably something very simple. Keep persevering!  Landrover - turning owners into mechanics since 1948

2014 Orkney grey Freelander SD4 GS.
2004 Zambezi silver Discovery 2 Td5 (Gone)
1963 Surf blue Morris Mini Minor Super de Luxe (my little toy)

Pound to a penny it's something to do with the immobiliser/alarm system