I stripped the pinion on the front transfer case last year, so no drive to the rear for around 3 months. I still had my vibration then, and still have it now with a new transfer case.

59 HSE TD4 Auto. I have had the same issue with the vibration for the last 6 years. As you all say it’s there between 1500 and 1800/2000 rpm. If I keep the revs over 2000 it’s gone. I have a question, is there anybody who has/had the vibration blanked the egr valve, did the vibration go or do they still have it.

Hi
I have the same vibration and have the egr blanked in fact the vibration appeared many months after blanking the egr.

There is a few threads on here that mention a bolt from the airbox accessible through the wing vent that vibrates similar to this, I haven't tried looking at this yet but probably will this weekend. 2007 hse auto

sadler32 wrote:

59 HSE TD4 Auto. I have had the same issue with the vibration for the last 6 years. As you all say it’s there between 1500 and 1800/2000 rpm. If I keep the revs over 2000 it’s gone. I have a question, is there anybody who has/had the vibration blanked the egr valve, did the vibration go or do they still have it.

Most if not all of the reports on this subject (after tyres have been discounted) are from TD4 auto owners and likely not coincidental. My son had a similar problem with a BMW 320D auto and it was eventually traced to a badly designed component in the torque converter, IIRC a cheap plastic bush which was replaced on later models.

Any info out there on mods or improvements to the Aisin AW F21 transmission post 2010 and/or SD4 upgrade.

sadler32 wrote:

59 HSE TD4 Auto. I have had the same issue with the vibration for the last 6 years. As you all say it’s there between 1500 and 1800/2000 rpm. If I keep the revs over 2000 it’s gone. I have a question, is there anybody who has/had the vibration blanked the egr valve, did the vibration go or do they still have it.

Think I’m going to try get one of these surley this will locate our problem &feature=share

What a marvellous bit of kit. -- Hope my LR garage has one!! FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

Today I removed fuse fb6 to completely disable haldex and went out for a drive at all speeds loads and inclines etc and I can say the vibration was almost gone and although it does change the driving characteristics and you are informed via the dash of the transmission fault it was very smooth at all speeds .... so this makes even more questions for me to think about .
1. My rear diff is not noisey clunky or leaking any oil and I have serviced haldex oil and filter .
2. Can I now rule out front driveshafts transfer box and gearbox maybe?
3. As the prop still spins with haldex disconnected to rear can I also now rule that out too ?
So maybe if I’m right the haldex engages the rear from a standing start then slowly lets go as speed increases and it could be that mine is staying engaged all the time and then when the lock up clutch kicks in (1800/2000 rpm maybe) bang comes the vibration as everything is all locked up?
Any other sufferers could try a run without fb6 any see what you think .
And anyone any idea when haldex fully lets go and when auto box lock up clutch kicks in,ie rpm or road speed etc please share thanks.

I get this vibration. Tends to happen in 6th gear at 60mph at approx 1800 revs. just sounds like something is struggling. I've had:
Throttle body replaced
refurbished and Upgraded rear diff
New clutch and DMF
4x new tyres
50/50 economy/power remap & K&N filter
EGR blanked

And it still does it. I should say I didn't replace all of the above just for this vibration. Diff went noisy, clutch was slipping and tyres were just worn, throttle body failed. It's smooth as silk at 70mph!! But my mpg has been a bit pants lately but thats a different topic I hope!

IanMetro wrote:

What a marvellous bit of kit. -- Hope my LR garage has one!!

Bought myself the earlier version, not wifi but works just as well.

Has just confirmed my diff will need an overhaul/change at some point, makes exactly the same noise as in the video  (Now Sold). 2008 Freelander 2 (Nazca Sand) SE TD4 Auto. Statutory write off & on WOVR for hail damage but still road legal.
171037Km as of 09/05/22
Superchips Bluefin Flash
Nanocom Evo II (also sold)

Hi OP. so an update Im Vibration Free... So had the rear diff bearings replaced and a Haldex fluid change made no difference only to highlight the fact that the front IRD rear bearing was also making a noise not as loud as the rear until that was sorted. On stripping the IRD the rear bearing was found to be collapsed so had all bearings replaced as the oil was contaminated with swarf. Went to the Scottish Land rover show yesterday along the newly laid M8 and Totally free from any noise and vibration. hope it helps.

Dave9 I assume that your final problem was the front axle differential, could you please advise the approx cost of repair and was it done by LR dealer or indie?

It seems so, The work was done by an indy. as I have a warranty he had to replace the bearings (when he has done this in the past had just fitted a second hand unit) so the labour was the biggest cost he is currently In talks with the warranty coy as to how much they will pay. They only want to pay for the 1 bearing but would be daft to only replace 1 when the rest had swarf floating around. Total cost £682.

Hi guys,

Dose anyone no the correct way to fit front and rear propshaft on a FL2 as I've still got this bad vibration at 60mph and I'm thinking the propshaft may be out of balance, I've Benn looking on the Internet and found there's a correct way of fitting the propshaft and if fitted wrong can cause vibration issues,

Thanks Jason.