Fully synthetic 5W/30 meeting ACEA A5/B5 specificaction should be fine Id have thought.

Landrover use a ford specification (its a ford/peugeot diesel engine) for their 2.2 engine and oil specifications have moved on since yours was built, as oil requirements change for things like the addition of diesel particulate filters. Jules

If I didn't know what oil was in the engine and it needed a top-up, I'd probably just do a oil and filter change with correct spec oil. I use a local product that is C3-12 and change it every 15K kms (around every 4 months).

g

The ACEA oil specifications

https://www.oilspecifications.org/acea.php Jules

Thanks folks!

Can I ask what do we think I should be best to do given the level is between half and minimum should i nip in to Halfrauds or my local motor factors and plonk 1 litre of
5 -30 fully synthetic in just to keep things topped up or wait till a week or two and book an oil and filter change.

Yes the latter makes sense but my garage doesn't open on my day off (Saturday) so it means I will have to take time off work which I would prefer to avoid, and as some of you are probably thinking no me doing an oil change is not an option.

Thanks in advance

Tom

Me again sorry

As some have said their oil level doesn't or hardly drops between servicing.

Given I brought my FL2 about a month - 6 weeks ago and the oil level was spot on prob done approx 1 -1.5k in that time any idea why it could be burning oil?

The coolant level is fine that hasn't moved. No signs of any oil drips or leaks on the drive? and most importantly and thankfully the oil isn't a milky colour

Is this be something I should be concerned about?

Again any info greatly appreciated thanks in advance

T

Make sure you check the oil every time when the engine is stone cold it will give you a far more accurate reading because if you do check when the engine is worm/hot it will show the oil way up on the dipstick.

Cheers JF Always do mate

How many miles has it done ?

Jack frost wrote:

Make sure you check the oil every time when the engine is stone cold it will give you a far more accurate reading because if you do check when the engine is worm/hot it will show the oil way up on the dipstick.

Also make sure the car is level.
 gone
P38 v8 auto no problems,great howle from exhausts when giving it welly
Td5 auto head gasket,no5 pot not uncommon but good car.
1st Tdv6s manual epb problem fixed under warranty(stealer said"never heard of this before,i suggested he looked at d3 forum.
2nd Tdv6 se auto epb
3rd Tdv6 xs auto 2008,swmbo,s favourite.

Jack frost wrote:

How many miles has it done ?

Jack frost wrote:

Make sure you check the oil every time when the engine is stone cold it will give you a far more accurate reading because if you do check when the engine is worm/hot it will show the oil way up on the dipstick.

Yes be very careful of a worm engine.  FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Worn engine?? EEK

She pulls fine and is very responsive, and doesn't smoke at all, no unusual knocks or noises..surely there would be somet of these signs if the engine was worn?

What checks be done at this point?

Thanks folks

T

Yorky Bob wrote:

Yes be very careful of a worm engine.

WORM, I said WORM Quoting Jack Frosts post.  FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

 Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.