400 Nm (295 ft·lb) (40.8 kgm) at 2000 rpm for the TD4 and 420 Nm / 310 ft-lbs for the SD4.

The extra torque makes a difference as above but someone explained the difference to me once really simply as it can get confusing especially when you consider that bhp does not actually exist!! That was;

"BHP sells cars, torque actually moves them"

BHP does exist - roughly speaking it is rate at which you can apply the force.

It looks as if the SD4 has a broader spread of torque.

It manages to give its maximum power at 3,500 rpm, while the TD4 torque drops off with engine speed more quickly and needs to go to 4,000 rpm to produce its maximum (but lower) power.

This must make the SD4 easier and less frantic to drive. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

AjM wrote:

Not earth shattering, but certainly more torque, it really throws you back of the line and I accidentally got a 4 wheel spin the other day (admittedly it was wet and I floored it).

You can def notice it, put it like that.

It's a permanent 4 wheel drive but unlike conventional systems it is predominantly front wheel drive when moving in a straight line with full traction and sends more drive to the rear when it detects the need to do so.

Ah ok. so if I am out & about in slippery or icy weather I don't really have to select one of the options available on the dial by the gearshift. Unless of course I am in mud or on sand etc.

I guess I would select the setting with a snowflake on it if it was settling snow, is the hill descent switch any use if going down a hill in icy conditions to keep the car under better control or is it only for muddy stuff, my Shogun that I recently had just had 4 wheel drive high or low & did not have the selections available that the Freelander 2 has.

If you're out and about in slippery conditions - wet roads, icy roads, snowy roads, wet grass etc then your best bet is to select Grass Gravel Snow (snowflake symbol) which is designed for any conditions where there is a firm base but it's slippery on top. Leaving it in normal mode will work but not as well as using the right setting for the conditions.

Hill Descent Control works in all conditions but is only selected automatically in Mud and Ruts in any other Terrain Response setting it has to be manually selected. You can also adjust the descent speed by using the cruise control + or - buttons. Default speed is about 8 mph and can be reduced to about 4 mph or up to 20 mph. If you change TR settings HDC will revert to the default value.

Remember though that HDC is an aid and if your tyres lose grip/traction then you're in a 2 ton sledge.

If you want to find out more about what all the various systems in your vehicle do the it might be worth booking onto a LR Experience course or finding somewhere where you can take your own vehicle and join an off road training day.

Last edited by rchrdleigh on 28th Sep 2017 7:58 pm. Edited 1 time in total

The (post 2009 MY) SD4 has the Haldex gen 4 coupling.



It is electronically controlled and is ALWAYS ACTIVE, and has separate oil pressure pump.

For example, it always preloads with some torque sent to the back wheels from standstill until about 19 mph every time you start moving. It is very sophisticated reacts to slip, steering lock, and many other parameters.

The Terrain Response controls add more sophistication by altering the responses controlling the Haldex, ABS, Gearbox, etc.

You cannot compare this to normal physical couplings, differential locks, and the like.

Blueboy, forget your salesman, he didn't have a clue, you are safe in your FL2, with or without Terrain Control selected, AWD will cut in if needed. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

Thanks Ianmetro for the information although to me its quite complicated as not that mechanical minded. I don't know what generation Haldex mine would be but suppose its an early version as my FL is 2007.

Good to know I have AWD if its needed without me having to do anything.

My son used to drive FL2s a lot around farms in the UK for his job reckoned that the best thing was to leave the dial in the normal position and let the car sort itself out (which it generally did) his view was that the program settings are really a marketing feature. He now drives a Toyota hilux in Africa with BFGoodrich tyres and rarely uses the 4WD, lo box or diff lock unless terrain is really bad. 3 x FL1 2 manual + 1 auto
5 x FL2 4 manual + 1 auto
Now Discovery Sport P250 MHEV SE

on Discovery Sport and Evoque (and on AWD Jaguar) that have the 4x4 info selection on the touch display, when you select it you get a graphical image of 4 wheels and a basic transmission (engine and diffs represented by boxes)

On the propshaft line running from the engine box to the rear diff box, there is another box with a padlock symbol in a circle.

If you drive with this screen view selected the circle around the padlock turns green in 1/4's to represent the 4x4 Haldex etc kicking in.

so a 1/4 block means 25% power is being sent to the rear, 1/2 block 50% etc and when its all green the padlock is closed to represent the diffs are locked.

Gimmicky but interesting to watch the green blocks changing around corners or away from standing.

blueboy wrote:

I was given to believe (by local Landrover service agent) that the TD4 was only front wheel drive until the dial was turned to select something else for off road use.

He told me that the MK1 was awd but when Landrover built the mk2 & made it around half a tonne heavier that Landrover did not want to market it with poorer MPG so its 2 wheel drive until selected otherwise to keep the consumption down.

He was telling me that this is why Haldex issues arise as its not used until the dial is moved for a awd program which most people don't ever use as always on tarmac, when they do select a different setting the Haldex is seized or stiff through not being used.

Sorry to bring this up on the thread but hope someone can tell me if I am in awd all the time or only when I move my terrain dial.

Had this knowledgeable fella just given up his paper round ?  FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Blueboy

The FL2 2007 has the Haldex gen 3, it is still electronically controlled but with a mechanical pump and reservoir.
I believe it has a lower preload and maximum torque that it sends to the back axle. (than the gen 4)

http://www.awdwiki.com/en/haldex/

As I understand it the FL1 (before 2007), had an earlier Haldex unit that physically reacted to the difference between front and rear axle speeds, and gave a lot of problems (with tyre size, etc)

Our FL2 does not have this version, but has lead to a (incorrect) bad reputation of reliability to the FL2. FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

The FL1 had a viscous coupling 4WD system which is totally different to the FL2 (think chalk/blackboard and tablet/smartboard different !)

The Viscous unit was a 'dinner plate' sized unit set in between front and rear prop shafts. Filled with a jelly like viscous fluid that when under normal propshaft speeds on road would be a very liquid substance. When the front wheels lost traction and spun, the front propshaft would spin faster than the rear one, and the viscous fluid would be effectively stirred making it thicker and thicker the more spin. This fluid would then grip the rear propshaft more firmly and transfer more power to the rear diff accordingly. Once traction was restored and propshaft returned to normal the fluid would resort back to a thinner liquid and power was back to the front wheels as normal.
The problem being that over time the viscous fluid would become thicker and thicker with age and usage, and the coupler would become stiffer and stiffer. If caught in time and changed, then no issues. If not caught the constant excessive resistance of AWD on road would put strain on the rear diff and the IRD (front transfer box) and cause them to fail.

The failure of owners to change out the viscous coupler when it started seizing, and the subsequent failure of rear diff and IRD, is what gave the FL1 a bad name (discounting any other non transmission issues). The engine was a BMW 2.0D (in TD4 guise, it was a Sherpa van 2.0D prior to 2001) and it was pretty much bullet proof.

The FL2 is a 100% different set up with nothing carried over from FL1 at all, except for an unwarranted bad reputation.

Thanks everyone for their input & informing me how it all works. Very knowledgeable people on here.

I found this interesting site which gives a lot of facts about the engineering specification about most cars, including the FL2 in all its guises.

https://www.automobile-catalog.com/curve/2...d4_se.html

https://www.automobile-catalog.com/auta_perf1.php

https://www.automobile-catalog.com/make/la.../2012.html FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)