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Lr_defender



Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: Surrey
Posts: 15

United Kingdom 2008 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Tonga Green
Auto transmission issue - your thoughts please

I have a 2007 td4 HSE auto on 103,000 miles. Twice in the last couple of weeks I have experienced the transmission "snatching" when put under load . It is as if the car tries to kick down and then decides not to -It only seems to happen when I accelerate quite hard onto a dual carriageway within two miles of home (when the engine / transmission is still relatively cold) when the car has been running a while I cannot emulate it - it changes faultlessly. I have no warning / error messages being displayed

I've read the extensive posts on here concerning the recommended schedules for changing the fluid and cannot find any record of it in the cars paperwork - (it's nearly 10 years old anyway)

Has anyone experienced similar ? Where should I start ? Should I get the fluid changed by my local (reliable) independent LR specialist or look for a local auto transmission specialist ? Anyone know a good auto transmission company in Surrey / Kent / Sussex?

Post #322310 26th Apr 2017 6:06 am
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Andy131



Member Since: 09 Dec 2009
Location: Manchester
Posts: 2159

United Kingdom 

change the oil.
In a manual, when you change gear the procedure is 1)lift off throttle, 2) press clutch, 3)change gear, 4)lift clutch, 5)floor throttle.
In an auto the car does this for you 1) lift throttle, 2)release one gear, 3)select another gear, 4) apply throttle.
The throttle is timed, if the oil is thick or you have another problem (failing pump, blocked galleys, blocked filter, etc.) the gear change takes too long, so the throttle is applied too early. Boy o boy does it slam in, it will wake sleeping passengers. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Post #322314 26th Apr 2017 7:19 am
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Yorky Bob



Member Since: 28 Apr 2015
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 4561

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Firenze Red

For the life of me I cannot understand why there are owners asking if oils should be changed as the FL2 fleet of cars gets older and hits 10 years.

Just because LR say they are filled for life or service them at ten years was a marketing ploy to convince Joe Public and Fleet Managers that running costs are/were acceptable in the first few years of ownership.

Anyone buying a 9 to 10 year old FL2 car without a documented 10 year service (or other proof) should be taking circa £2,000 off any screen price IMO. At 10 years that Cam belt and Water Pump can be added to the list of jobs and that is not a 2 minute job or a cheap fix. At 4 years the only thing now not done at a 10 years service on my MY13 is the Cam Belt and that will be done way in advance.

Rear diff oil changed
Haldex out and serviced by (Bell)
Transfer box oil changed (Indie)
Gearbox oil changed (manual)
Power steering oil changed
Coolant changed (EGR was off anyway)

Change the oils and filters well before any LR spec and you will reap the rewards if you intend to keep the car.

Battery will be changed this Winter as its going to be standing for a good month. Why you may ask would I do that, l returned to a previous car several years ago after a month stood in cold weather and blew the alternator due to battery being unable to cope.

OK if money is tight pick those items off one by one as you feel you can afford it, dong them all at once is a big hit. Wait for Opie oils to make one of their big discount offers and buy the oils in cheap and take it from there. Genuine Gates cam belts/water pump kits are on Flea Bay at much reduced prices compared to LR. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Post #322319 26th Apr 2017 8:16 am
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Andy131



Member Since: 09 Dec 2009
Location: Manchester
Posts: 2159

United Kingdom 

It doesn't require any special tools to change the auto transmission oil - do it yourself, it's easy.
There is a very good write-up here if you look.
Basically, drive up on ramps, remove filler plug, remove drain plug, and approx. 3 litres of black oil will come out.
refit drain plug, and put as much oil back in as came out - you did measure it didn't you.
refit filler plug, and run engine for 5 minutes.
repeat all of the above until the oil comes bright red.
drive off ramps and go for a 10 minute drive, check oil level using small fill level plug.

Ok it will take a couple of hours and take quite a few litres of very expensive oil (opie oils recommended), but will save you hundreds verses LR prices.

Mine took 18 litres to clean a 7 litre box! the oil that came out hot was thicker than new cold oil - massive difference in changes.

Do take the fill plug out BEFORE you drain the oil, because if you can't get it out and you have just dropped the oil you are going to be walking to Halfords to get the right tool. Tangiers Orange - gone, missing her
Replaced by Ewok what a mistake - now a happy Disco Sport owner

Post #322339 26th Apr 2017 3:40 pm
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