[quote="Rnclayton]SWMBO thinks that regardless of whether you pay £500 or £50,000 for a car, it should be faultless for its entire life.[/quote]

Women are great like that aren't they, mine was the same with my last car. Either the garage we got it from ripped us off or my bad driving caused problems. Never was it a wear and tear issue 😂

Hope you get your problem sorted, it's always a stressful time when our cars decide to molest our bank balance.

1,200 miles or 120,000 miles? guessing 120,000 on a 08 plate?  FL2 GS

Ok. Oil level hasn't really changed

As a trial, I removed the expansion tank. Drained, cleaned.

Took about 300ml of water out of the rad, and left to sit for a while. Tiniest amount of black oil sat on surface.

Will try and flush rad through this weekend. Will then check next week on the situation.

Aimeetess1 wrote:

1,200 miles or 120,000 miles? guessing 120,000 on a 08 plate?

How does it go. "Should have gone to Spec-savers".  FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Just twigged this.

What I meant, is that I had done about 1,200 miles in the car since I bought it....

The car has done over 150,000....

I would put an Emoticon in here, but can only put the link in for some reason....

Well, it was the oil cooler.

Took me a little while, and a bit of head scratching, but got it done.

Once I look back on it, wasn't too difficult. Just have to do things in order.

Gave up at one point, and decided to get a mobile mechanic to finish it off. Couldn't find 1 mobile mechanic within 20 miles of me.

Relaxed for an evening, then looked at it again. It was just a process to create, and follow. Got a bit heavy handed and cracked one of the connections on the fuel filter.

Anyway, new cooler, new oil filter, new fuel filter, new air filter.

Just in time to tow the caravan this weekend.

So I'm interested in how you replaced the oil cooler, at it looks a bit of a to access!

I've taken the rad out so I have relatively easy access, but I'm wondering the best way to disconnect the hose into the top of the cooler. Did you manage to do it from the front or did you go from above (ie remove the fuel filter)?

Thanks!

Unless it’s got a hairline crack, it’s more likely to be the oil cooler housing to block seal that’s leaking - part number 6619 in that diagram. Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

Ah, ok, but even so wouldn't the the oil cooler & filter housing still needs to come out to replace that seal which means disconnecting the hoses into the top of the cooler?

J.

Hopefully I have managed to post link to picture of Oil Cooler and Filter Housing.

https://www.freel2.com/gallery/albums/user...Cooler.pdf FL2 XS SD4 Auto 2010 2012-2017 (21k - 91k miles) (MY2011)
FL2 Metropolis SD4 Auto 2014 2017- (16k - 76k+ miles) (MY2015)

It's a bit different to that on the diesel. Its LR part number LR006653:

Glad to hear that you are operational once again.

Based on your picture I think that you have the 3.2 (Edit: Actually Ian posted the picture of the cooler for the 3.2, so the original poster may have the diesel after all)

(2nd edit: if you have a diesel then the picture above are what you are looking for, if you have a Petrol powered Freelander 2 then the link below may be more helpful)

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic29886.html


Do you know if the coolant was changed in your Freelander 2? If it was how many years and and miles?


Thanks

Paul

Last edited by p_gill on 16th Oct 2017 10:53 pm. Edited 2 times in total

I have a diesel and I think the original poster does too. The photograph I attached is definitely an oil cooler and filter housing for a diesel.
Its a bit tricky removing it, hence my question on how the original poster removed it. I have managed to undo all of the bolts, its just the hoses that I cannot move or reach. However, on reflection, I think I just need to use remote hose clip pliers and a bit of wiggling...

Then I'll find out whether I can remove it without unbolting the starter motor (there seems to be different views on this forum a to whether that is necessary).

J.

PS. I should add that the original symptoms were that all of the engine oil has been dumped into the coolant system, but no coolant in the engine oil...

Jim,

I updated my post to show that it for petrol owners (like me).

Note: the fundamental design of the heat exchanger is shared by both petrol and diesel versions

Its a plate style heat exchanger.

Due to its lightness I think that its made from Aluminum and that the plates are brazed together.

If I am correct the brazed joint separates the coolant from the oil.

As for the oil in the coolant vs the coolant in the oil I think this is just due to the pressure of the two systems, with the oil under more pressure it flowed into the coolant.


Take a look at this link (specifically the picture)

https://landroverforums.com/forum/lr2-35/e...ing-85879/


Is that what happened to you?

If it is then I need to update my recommendation to show the engine oil heat exchanger instead of the automatic transmission fluid heat exchanger.


Was the coolant serviced on your Freelander 2?

When did the failure occur?

Thanks for sharing

Paul

Paul,

Thanks for the info, very useful.

What happened to me was similar, although the engine is running ok, with no warning lights lit. The first thing I noticed was thick black oil was dripping on the driveway, quite a puddle.

I tracked it down to leaking from the pressure release value on the coolant reservoir. Opened up the reservoir and it was *full* of thick black engine oil. No sign of the coolant (even under the oil!). The engine oil dipstick was completely clean, suggesting no (or very little) oil in the engine.

The coolant was replaced two years ago during its 150,000 mile service. The last service (~170,000 miles) was about 12 weeks ago.


J.