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austen_fl2

Member Since: 03 Dec 2014
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 146

2007 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto Stornoway Grey

When i said turn diff over and feel it, you need to of removed the haldex unit first www.bellengineering.co.uk

16th Mar 2017 10:19 am

MRRover75

Member Since: 13 Jan 2017
Location: Sandnes
Posts: 316

2007 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Manual Tambora Flame

Understood that

I rotated it on the haldex but the diff internals rotated also. Seemed smooth then, but I will do as you adviced and put the flange directly on the input shaft. Once again, thanks a lot for great advice!

16th Mar 2017 10:54 am

MRRover75

Member Since: 13 Jan 2017
Location: Sandnes
Posts: 316

And a last question, Is a 80w90 GL5 mineral gear oil correct for the rear diff or should I go for a 75w90 GL4/GL5 synthetic type?

16th Mar 2017 11:36 am

austen_fl2

Member Since: 03 Dec 2014
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 146

80-90 is what i use and is the recommended oil, but you can use the 75-90 GL5 spec as this oil is also specified suitable for 80-90 applications. Personally prefer the 80-90 as the 75 seems a little thin. www.bellengineering.co.uk

16th Mar 2017 11:49 am

MRRover75

Member Since: 13 Jan 2017
Location: Sandnes
Posts: 316

austen_fl2 wrote:
When i said turn diff over and feel it, you need to of removed the haldex unit first

Hi,

Flange removed from Haldex and put directly on the input shaft. Feels smooth and firm to rotate. Need some extra torque to get it rotating from standstill but I quess this is normal as a pre-load was applied to the bearings on assembly from the factory??

The flange nut was hard to remove due to thread locker but came off easily after applying some heat from my trusty flame torch. I guess I should apply some loctite 243 to this one on re-assembly?

17th Mar 2017 6:56 am

austen_fl2

Member Since: 03 Dec 2014
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 146

Yes that's normal, sounds like you have a good one.

Yes a bit of loctite needed on that thread. www.bellengineering.co.uk

17th Mar 2017 9:39 am

devondave

Member Since: 06 Dec 2010
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 224

2010 Freelander 2 TD4_e GS Manual Santorini Black

Brilliant, what would we do without Austen

17th Mar 2017 10:31 am

Arctic

Member Since: 24 Aug 2016
Location: Westmidlands
Posts: 428

2014 Freelander 2 SD4 HSE Auto Orkney Grey

This is one thread I will definitely be following, photo's also appreciated Arctic

18th Mar 2017 8:56 am

MRRover75

Member Since: 13 Jan 2017
Location: Sandnes
Posts: 316

Hi All,

Some progress on this issue. I had some hours yesterday and got started with the removal of the rear diff. I used the brilliant quick guide supplied bu Austen on another thread:

1. Remove 2 X 10mm on bolts holding rear exhaust box chassis on drivers side (passenger side in France)
2. Slide exhaust rubbers of both sides of the exhaust box, exhaust will now hang down, support with straps.
3. Remove 6 x torx head prop bolts, then shock prop flange with hammer and big chisel to dislodge prop flange from input shaft of haldex. Unplug larger haldex plug from loom, use a small flat ended screwdriver and twist in the gap between plug and button, this should release it.
4. Remove 4 X 10mm bolts on bottom of diff hanger to diff
5. Support diff
6. Loosen 18mm bolt on diff hanger bracket on drivers side a couple of turns (passenger side in France). Remove opposite side 18mm bolt. Hanger will now swing down.
7. Remove 2x15mm bolts from rear of diff through rear subframe
8. Lower diff slightly, unplug breather pipes.
9. Lower further and slide backwards until driverside (passenger in France) drive shaft touches exhaust, now pull out this driveshaft, it will just come out.
10. Lower diff further, looking at remaining drive shaft at 11 o'clock , ontp of the diff castings a hole, you can putba strong screwdriver or drift into there and pop the drive shaft out.
11. Remove haldex 4x10mm bolts

Actually, I found removing the prop shaft bolts the most time consuming part. Not to much space and much force needes to shift them around, but they came out in the end. I took the 4 lower most first and then moved the car slightly on the floor so the last two ones was facing down for easier access. The rest was pretty straight forward. Found it a bit tight to maneuverer the RH side drive shaft away from the gearbox. It would helped to loose the RH side suspension links I think, but did not bother....
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The diff came up on the work bench at last:
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After removing the haldex, I rotated the input shaft in the same manner as on the "new" diff. Felt firm, but could also feel some slight "knurling" when rotating. I have to admit that I expected it to be worse.
Found the haldex unit to be pretty dirty and seems like it had be leaking oil for a while. What I did not like, was that there was nearly no oil in it on removal! It also seems like someone has been in there before as the connector for the pump was fixed by a cable tie.
I removed the filter and pump and found it full of "gunk", nearly as expected after looking at other threads. It seems like the road salt has taken its toll as there was corrosion found at the sealing surfaces on both the pump and filter. For all I know, the corrosion may have caused a leak at the pump seal making it drain the haldex during operation??

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I gave the haldex unit a proper clean up in a diesel bath and blowed in dry afterwards. I also cleaned up the seal surfaces from corrosion.

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Then everything was put back on onto the "new" diff. Fond that the O-ring between the haldex and diff could easily slip into a groove in the haldex and misplace it during mounting, causing future leaks. I had to pay great attention to this one while fitting, making sure it was in its place. New Haldex filter (supplied by the local Volvo dealer) fitted and prop shaft flange put back on. A drop of loctite 243 added to the nut prior to install and tightened up to the specified 130Nm. I also filled the haldex with oil on the bench, but need to refill and set the level after the diff is back on according to procedure.

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The diff will probably be put back on this evening, crossing fingers that both the diff and haldex are OK.

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

20th Mar 2017 6:44 am

MRRover75

Member Since: 13 Jan 2017
Location: Sandnes
Posts: 316

Hi all,

A little status update.
The "new" diff is now back in place. It went in quite easily without any major issues. Diff filled with a quality 80w90 GL5 mineral gear oil. I put the ignition on without starting the engine to prime the Haldex pump as per procedure. I went under to check if the Haldex pump was running but could not hear any sound from it or feel any vibration. I just not hope its completely dead That was all I managed to do yesterday. I will try to start the engine and let it run for 5 minutes. Hopefully, the Haldex oil level will then have dropped, indicating positive pump operation. If not, something more is shoot
Any advice on how to verify Haldex operation? Will any fault codes be thrown if the pump is gone?

21st Mar 2017 6:17 am

austen_fl2

Member Since: 03 Dec 2014
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 146

I always let the car tickover, as i find it he pump only primes once for a few seconds if you leave the ignition on only. If you don't get any errors on the dash it should be fine as it monitors the pressure inside the haldex, if it's not correct the dash will ping. www.bellengineering.co.uk

21st Mar 2017 8:31 am

MRRover75

Member Since: 13 Jan 2017
Location: Sandnes
Posts: 316

Thanks Austen for your great advice! I will do that when finished with some other jobs before I drop the car back on the ground. Hopefully the fluid level will then have dropped by the 100-200 ml`s specified, indicating positive pump operation.
Now I have to fit a towbar and new rear brakes before I am (hopefully) done with my rear end..

21st Mar 2017 8:44 am

austen_fl2

Member Since: 03 Dec 2014
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 146

All depends what position the piston was in when you filled it, and how dry you got the haldex before filling. Also filling on bench may of meant you got more in to start with. www.bellengineering.co.uk

21st Mar 2017 9:21 am

MRRover75

Member Since: 13 Jan 2017
Location: Sandnes
Posts: 316

Hi Austen,

I guess the Haldex was drained completely as it was removed from the diff and the filter and pump was removed. I got 500ml`s into the haldex before it ran out of the filler plug on the bench, so I guess its room for more after priming. Is the full volume 650ml`s ?

21st Mar 2017 9:26 am

austen_fl2

Member Since: 03 Dec 2014
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 146

680mm. All sounds if piston was in or out when it drained out or filled www.bellengineering.co.uk

21st Mar 2017 10:46 am

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