Hi all, does anyone know if you light up the dash by pressing the start button WITHOUT pressing the clutch if the heater plugs are active? ie. will it work as a pre-heat in cold start conditions before you actually attempt to start the engine? Only dead fish go with the flow

Don't know the answer but the car works out if they need heating and does it automatically.

Not sure if anyone actually knows, but this has been recommended as a cold start method by many on the forum and by some dealers, especially for early models. Ex AA Series III LWB Safari - Gone
300TDi Disco (bought new - terrible car) sent back after 18 months
Freelander 1 Estate - leased, given back at end of lease
200TDi Disco (bought from a mate with 100,000 on the clock) - Gone
Disco 2 TD5 - sold and exported to France
FR2 TD4 GS - Gone
FR2 SD4 HSE - Now changed for a DS
New model ex-demo Evoque S 180 in white
Unable to order a new DS, so gave up. Now have a Volvo S90 Recharge.

Thanks for the replies.

Mine is a 2007. As I live at 1130m altitude it can get very cold here, coldest to date has been -21c. As winter is coming and the temperature has already dropped my Freelander has started ' coughing and spluttering' before it starts- not even -3c.

I shall try the method I mentioned and see if it makes a difference... Only dead fish go with the flow

There are two phases: pre-glow and post-glow.

Pre-glow is before starting the engine, for a period of time depending on the outside temp.
This period occur no matter if you start or not the engine. After expiring, the glow plugs are disconnected.
In order to repeat the process, you need to switch off the ignition and then switch it back on.
The engine cranking command is generally given before the pre-glow period to expire.

After the engine was started, the glow plugs are energized again, in order to help combustion and lower the emissions. Again, for a period of time, until water temp is over a certain value (about 20 degrees).

Thing is that the glow plugs themselves doesn't warm up (or pre-heat, as you said) the engine... They are too small for that big hunk of metal the engine is...
The glow plugs are for igniting the injected fuel and the pre-glow period is for allowing them to reach incandescence in order to ignite the fuel easier.

I should have realised that Alex would know!
My 2007 never had the delay before starting - and I was told by the dealer that early models didn't, so it was better to use the "ignition on" system you describe before starting.
Quite a few have posted on here that their glow plugs were not working. That could be the case for you too, but apparently it's not easy to check (or to change the plugs). Ex AA Series III LWB Safari - Gone
300TDi Disco (bought new - terrible car) sent back after 18 months
Freelander 1 Estate - leased, given back at end of lease
200TDi Disco (bought from a mate with 100,000 on the clock) - Gone
Disco 2 TD5 - sold and exported to France
FR2 TD4 GS - Gone
FR2 SD4 HSE - Now changed for a DS
New model ex-demo Evoque S 180 in white
Unable to order a new DS, so gave up. Now have a Volvo S90 Recharge.

If the engine is struggling to start in cold temperatures are there any 'tricks' to assist in starting?

It has now dropped to -10 here and due to get colder. My F2 takes about 5-6 efforts to start up, unlike my Discovery 2 which starts every time regardless of temperature- I'm wondering if it needs new glow plugs? Only dead fish go with the flow

It is very easy to check glow plugs, disconnect the the power lead from each one, with all disconnected check each one in turn with a meter on Ohms, the reading should be less than 5 Ohms to earth, replace any above that. my PC is slightly to the right of Genghis
2012 HSE SD4 In Orkney Grey now gone, best car ever.

Last edited by Dartman the one on 6th Jan 2017 12:42 pm. Edited 1 time in total

I have an 07 and it struggled to start with temperatures at -18C in the Alps last winter- I tried everything - start button without depressing clutch etc and it would do the delay start with the clutch down, but took ages to eventually start and I had nearly drained the battery and the white smoke out of the back was, well, impressive!

However, back in the UK the temperature never got that low and so I had no problem starting.

This winter as temperatures dropped it was starting to struggle and I noticed that the Glow Plug display on the dash was not showing up so I decided it was time to get the glow plugs replaced - a really fiddly job so I decided to let my local Indy have the job.

A few days after the job was done I was in Luxembourg and the temperature in the morning was -8C - a good test.

Key fob in, press starter button, Glow Plug symbol on briefly, clutch down press starter again and bingo, immediate start.

If your Glow Plugs are the originals then I would just get them renewed - it does appear to be not an uncommon problem with earlier models. Tattoos - Why would you choose to look like the wall of a public toilet?

One of the cars we have had, to make the glow plugs work you had to press the brake pedal as well as the clutch. I don't think putting the ignition on would work the glow plugs, that'd be a lot of wasted energy when all you want to do is power to listen to the radio. Out of habit I always press the brake pedal as well as the clutch and my glow plugs symbol has been lighting up recently.

I've just checked the book, which is not that clear, asit talks about starting both manual and auto, and autos you have to press the brake pedal anyway, but it says

"NOTE. For Diesel engines vehicles, the delay period before cranking begins will be longer due to extended glow plug operation. During this extended delay, the brake pedal must remain pressed.

Once the engine has started the brake pedal can be released if it is safe to do so".

Do people on here who have the problem have auto or manual gearboxes?

Gav

Dartman the one wrote:

It is very easy to check glow plugs, disconnect the the power lead from each one, with all disconnected check each one in turn with a meter on Ohms, the reading should be less than 5 Ohms to earth, replace any above that.

It's easy to check glow plugs but not on the Freelander2, you can't even see them, they are buried below the inlet manifold.  
Hung like Einstein, smart as a horse.

At least you can use a DC clampmeter or even a suited ammeter, as each glow plug draw about 10 amps.
In this way, you can tell how many are working (or not) and if a change is necessary.
The measuring process is done at the glow plug relay place, by removing it and make there the appropriate measure jig.

I had problems starting my 2008 FL2 HSE up in the Alps when cold ( -7 to -18 deg C). Back in the UK instructed a LR garage to change all 4 plugs ... Cost £350 ( manifold must be removed). Two plugs were OK and two were open circuit.

Up in the mountains (5000 -7000 ft) you need good fuel, a food battery and 4 glowing glow plugs ... and perhas a good earth cable or cables to the engine and starter ...

Is it really such a pain-in-the-rear to change the glow plugs? Jeesh £350 for a new set? Outrageous!

I've done a fair bit on my old Discoveries, including a complete head change, so maybe the glow plugs are manageable...  Only dead fish go with the flow

This is the procedure

The 4 glow plugs are installed at the lower RH side of the cylinder head, adjacent to each intake helical port. Each glow plug seats in a formed drilling with the tip protruding into the combustion chamber. The glow plugs are connected by a common electrical harness, and are controlled by the ECM.

Disconnect the battery ground cable.

Make sure to support the vehicle with axle stands. Raise and support the vehicle.

Remove the intake manifold. FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current