Forum-Gallery-Shop-Sponsors

« Advertise on Freel2.com

Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Changing brake fluid
Post Reply  Down to end
Page 1 of 2 12>
Print this entire topic · 
valleyboy



Member Since: 11 Dec 2010
Location: South Wales.
Posts: 223

2008 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Narvik Black
Changing brake fluid

Is it easy to change/replace the brake fluid using kits advertised? My brake fluid has been in my vehicle from new, 8 years ago.

Post #309605 25th Oct 2016 7:12 am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Steve D



Member Since: 19 Jan 2013
Location: Essexshire
Posts: 4092

United Kingdom 

Short answer - yes. It helps if you can remove the existing fluid from the reservoir first but basically, connect the tool up with fresh fluid to the reservoir, pressurise it and just open each bleed nipple in turn (starting furthest away from the master cylinder) until the fluid runs clear. That way you know that you've got all the old fluid out. Don't let your reservoir of fluid run dry though! Past: FL2 TD4 HSE Auto
Evoque SD4 Dynamic Lux Auto
Present: Audi A3 S Line.

Post #309609 25th Oct 2016 8:24 am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Yorky Bob



Member Since: 28 Apr 2015
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 4561

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Firenze Red

Did mine with no special kit just some washer pipe and a plastic bottle. Best if you have a partner to press pedal but I managed that on my own and no problems.
Use a ring spanner or socket very slowly back and forth (at 8 years) to ease the nipples as an open ended will round them off for sure Thumbs Up FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Post #309619 25th Oct 2016 10:04 am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
valleyboy



Member Since: 11 Dec 2010
Location: South Wales.
Posts: 223

2008 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Narvik Black

Thanks for the advice. I'll either attempt it myself, or ask my friend who does my servicing what he would charge.

Post #309633 25th Oct 2016 1:10 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
SakoQuad



Member Since: 15 Jun 2013
Location: Gloucester
Posts: 314

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Auto Santorini Black

I had my car serviced recently, I asked for the brake fluid to be changed as it was last done 3 years ago but was told it was not needed as modern brake fluid was much improved and not as hygroscopic as yesteryears version - unless I was using it the track or similar i.e. very hard frequent braking. Garage reckoned good for at least 5 years.

Anyone have any thoughts on this? Is he right do you think? Seems odd to turn down a chance to do another job and earn another buck!

Post #309683 25th Oct 2016 10:51 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Yorky Bob



Member Since: 28 Apr 2015
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 4561

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Firenze Red

Much improved pedal on mine once done at only 3 years and fluid costs about £10. No brainer. ⚰ FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Post #309684 25th Oct 2016 11:25 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
MartynB



Member Since: 08 Aug 2011
Location: Currently Rootless !
Posts: 1761

United Kingdom 2009 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Auto Zermatt Silver

SakoQuad wrote:
I had my car serviced recently, I asked for the brake fluid to be changed as it was last done 3 years ago but was told it was not needed as modern brake fluid was much improved and not as hygroscopic as yesteryears version - unless I was using it the track or similar i.e. very hard frequent braking. Garage reckoned good for at least 5 years.

Anyone have any thoughts on this? Is he right do you think? Seems odd to turn down a chance to do another job and earn another buck!

IMHO They are talking rubbish. Glycols are hygroscopic and I would prefer to be near the top of the range than near the wet boiling point. Just sitting in the system from day one and the boiling point will start to change. As per advice from people above it costsh about £40 or £50 to have the fluid changed, it is not worth not doing it to schedule. It's not about heavy braking on track, how about coming down a twisty steep decline on the brakes. One thing to note is not all fluids of the same designation are the same performance wise . Use a branded fluid, Shell, Castrol, Brembo , Motul etc that meets LR specifications. 2009 GS Auto Zermatt Silver - Sold June 21 after 10 years of ownership

2016 Subaru Outback SE 2.0 diesel SE Premium Lineartronic Sold 2024 after 8 years and 80k miles . Best Car I ever owned !

2023 Toyota Hilux invincible X 2.8 Auto .

Post #309700 26th Oct 2016 9:46 am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Eurolandy



Member Since: 09 Oct 2010
Location: Cleveleys, Lancashire
Posts: 285

England 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Orkney Grey

Has anyone changed the clutch fluid at the same time as the brake fluid? Isn’t it the same reservoir? Question Gone:
2002 FL1 TD4 GS Zambezi Silver
2007 FL2 TD4 GS Izmir Blue

Post #309708 26th Oct 2016 12:22 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
SakoQuad



Member Since: 15 Jun 2013
Location: Gloucester
Posts: 314

United Kingdom 2010 Freelander 2 TD4 XS Auto Santorini Black

MartynB wrote:
SakoQuad wrote:
I had my car serviced recently, I asked for the brake fluid to be changed as it was last done 3 years ago but was told it was not needed as modern brake fluid was much improved and not as hygroscopic as yesteryears version - unless I was using it the track or similar i.e. very hard frequent braking. Garage reckoned good for at least 5 years.

Anyone have any thoughts on this? Is he right do you think? Seems odd to turn down a chance to do another job and earn another buck!

IMHO They are talking rubbish. Glycols are hygroscopic and I would prefer to be near the top of the range than near the wet boiling point. Just sitting in the system from day one and the boiling point will start to change. As per advice from people above it costsh about £40 or £50 to have the fluid changed, it is not worth not doing it to schedule. It's not about heavy braking on track, how about coming down a twisty steep decline on the brakes. One thing to note is not all fluids of the same designation are the same performance wise . Use a branded fluid, Shell, Castrol, Brembo , Motul etc that meets LR specifications.


Hmmm pretty much my thinking I must say. Being a mechanical incompetent I do have to rely on "experts" the cost wasn't a concern - I wanted it done - but garage were adamant it wasn't needed.

I'll take it elsewhere and get it done I guess, don 't like the idea of taking any chances at all with brakes!
Cheers chaps

Post #309749 26th Oct 2016 10:38 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Yorky Bob



Member Since: 28 Apr 2015
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 4561

United Kingdom 2013 Freelander 2 TD4 GS Manual Firenze Red

I would avoid the big boys, you could well be told you need a whole new braking system, perfect job for a trusted local small garage and dare I say it if done while you wait cash goes a long way. Whistle Wink FL2 MY10 TD4 GS traded in at 2 years
FL2 MY13 TD4 GS Current

Post #309750 26th Oct 2016 10:54 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Todologo



Member Since: 17 Apr 2016
Location: Madrid
Posts: 9

Spain 

Hello everyone
How much liquid you are required for a complete change?
¿1 liter is sufficient ?, the manual does not specify anything about
Thank you

Post #310008 31st Oct 2016 4:49 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
GeorgeB



Member Since: 26 Feb 2012
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 54

United Kingdom 2012 Freelander 2 TD4 HSE Auto Ipanema Sand

I found that a litre was enough. I tested the fluid I bled from each caliper and the only one that indicated any water content was the one furthest from the master cylinder. I didn't need to bleed much fluid from the other calipers.

Post #310010 31st Oct 2016 5:12 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Todologo



Member Since: 17 Apr 2016
Location: Madrid
Posts: 9

Spain 

Thanks Thumbs Up

Post #310013 31st Oct 2016 6:08 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Winslet



Member Since: 01 Oct 2013
Location: Bedfordshire
Posts: 281

United Kingdom 

Changed mine at the weekend - used 1.5 litres of the specified Shell ESL fluid (£7 for 500ml from my nearest fuel station), although any other low viscosity fluid (ISO 4925 class 6) should be fine. No need to remove the wheels, the rear bleed nipples I could reach from underneath and the fronts by turning the wheel to full lock as required.

The original fluid was 3.5 years old and had never been changed. At the last service was apparently tested and found to be okay... I checked the colour recently and it was rather on the yellow side. Fresh fluid is virtually colourless. I used Gunson's Eezibleed and the space saver from my wife's car (it weighs about 5kg compared to shifting the 27kg of a Freelander 2) at 20 psi to provide the pressure. Took a while for the fluid to run clear - brake feel is much improved and more consistent as you slow to a halt.

I checked the fluid in my wife's car - same age vehicle - much paler than mine and according to the service record it was changed 18 months ago... I shall be doing each on a 2 year cycle from now on. 2016 BMW X3 30d SE in red
MY2013 SD4 XS Firenze Red, 19" 10 spoke contrast paint wheels, Signature Strips, Grand Black Lacquer trim, Cold Climate Pack - gone!
2007 TD4 S Stornoway Grey - gone!

Post #310118 1st Nov 2016 9:27 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Winslet



Member Since: 01 Oct 2013
Location: Bedfordshire
Posts: 281

United Kingdom 

Update on my previous post - brakes are definitely much improved, particularly with braking towards a road junction or roundabout from speed, the braking is smoother and with the same braking effort throughout the braking phase, sustained until the end. I always felt I had to push harder towards the end to maintain the same level of retardation.

I checked the invoice from the last service, which suggested the fluid was tested for water and found to have none. Do they test the fluid in the reservoir? I guess so. I understand it is the hoses at the other end of the line which are more likely to absorb moisture as they are slightly porous.

A job worth doing. 2016 BMW X3 30d SE in red
MY2013 SD4 XS Firenze Red, 19" 10 spoke contrast paint wheels, Signature Strips, Grand Black Lacquer trim, Cold Climate Pack - gone!
2007 TD4 S Stornoway Grey - gone!

Post #311980 24th Nov 2016 10:24 pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Post Reply  Back to top
Page 1 of 2 12>
All times are GMT + 1 Hour

Jump to  
Previous Topic | Next Topic >
Posting Rules
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum



Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
Freel2.com RSS Feed - All Forums


Switch to Mobile site