HI, Just changed the Cam Belt and Water pump on my FL. Its done 100k miles so I thought I would air on the cautious side and do it. I inserted the pins onto the timing holes, to hold the cam and crank in place, and fitted the toothed peg into the flywheel to lock everything up. Everything so far going well. Then I tried to undo the crankshaft bolt!. Well was it tight or was it tight. I managed to move it eventually using a socket and a 2 foot bar. I thought that it would get easier, but no. It took me the best bart of half an hour to eventually wind the bolt out of the crankshaft. I was worried that I might strip the teeth on the flywheel, it was that tight. On inspection it was all down to the thread lock that was used in the original assembly. A quick spray with brake cleaner, and you can screw it back in by hand. The rest of the job went fine, new water pump, belt, belt tensioner, idler pulley and new antifreeze.

Has anyone experienced this problem, or was I just unlucky!

p.s. I did use thread lock on the camshaft bolt, hoping that I would never need to do it again.!

Yes, it is like you said.

It is recommended that you fit a new bolt, the old one will have threads stretched.
As you experienced, it was very tight.
Crankshaft Pulley Bolt LR000645

Joe Fix it until it's broke !

Last edited by Joe on 8th Aug 2016 9:11 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Have I done this wrong! My information was 70 Nm + 82 deg.

Andy-H, your information was correct.

Thanks Alex..

82 deg is being rather specific is it not.75 deg may be easier to judge then add a tad.

90 degrees will be fine

hi andy, i bought a fl 2 a couple of weeks ago, its got a full service history ( but few receipts apart from a clutch and flywheel) and has done 80k but its coming up to 10 years old so i am going to get the cam belt changed.

i have bought the gates kit including new pump.

how long did it take to do yours, was the tensioner difficult to set

Decided mine will be done. I have seen you can get the gates kit with waterpump for about £85 add on £20 for the camshaft locking tool and it looks to be a good diy fix.

I also used a gates kit (the belt I removed was a gates)
There is a useful video and some info here (video is a dayco kit)

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic23960.html


Joe Fix it until it's broke !

Last edited by Joe on 10th Aug 2016 3:21 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Interesting I think I'll start stocking up ready for a change over,

So what's the best Kit or parts to go for? please

and where is everyone getting their kit/parts from?

also are the Dayco belts recommended? as on the D2 were only OEM and not genuine belts

Dave DAVE.
I.A.M. F1rst Driver.
Gone 2003 Discovery TD5 Auto,
Gone 1986 Defender 90 Station Wagon
Gone 1984 Range Rover 3.5 Vogue Manual.
Gone 1970 Series 11A/3 SWB 3.5 V8 Hybrid
Gone 1964 Series 11A LWB Van
Gone 1966 Series 11A SWB Van
Gone 1964 Series 11A LWB Station Wagon,

Joe wrote:

I also used a gates kit (the OEM belt I removed was a gates)
There is a useful video and some info here (video is a dayco kit)

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic23960.html


Joe

Dave47 wrote:

Interesting I think I'll start stocking up ready for a change over,

So what's the best Kit or parts to go for? please

and where is everyone getting their kit/parts from?

also are the Dayco belts recommended? as on the D2 were only OEM and not genuine belts

Dave

hi bogart,i bought the gates kit, it includes the roller, adjuster, water pump, belt and new bolt.

are you going to replace the auxiliary drive belt at the same time