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Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Oil leak from vacuum pump, 3.2 petrol engine
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Bushx



Member Since: 23 Mar 2016
Location: Alberta
Posts: 15

Canada 2010 LR2 i6 HSE Auto Alaska White
Oil leak from vacuum pump, 3.2 petrol engine

Figured I'd post this up here, as a search on the forum found nothing but one reference to a leaky vacuum pump with pump replacement as the fix. You can get a repair kit from Volvo, as the same engine is used in some of their models. I'll be picking up Volvo part number 31401556 today and attempting a fix this weekend. I'll post up how it turns out. If you have the 3.2 engine, have a look at the right hand side of the engine, (facing the engine bay), and you'll see a "pump" mounted to the head, high up, driven off one of the cam's I think. If it's wet with oil underneath, then this may help you.

Post #297711 29th Apr 2016 4:43 pm
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jutrem



Member Since: 14 Mar 2008
Location: Burlington
Posts: 144

Canada 2008 LR2 i6 HSE Auto Tonga Green

Hi, Thanks for the heads up. How much was the part from Volvo? You gave good description of the pump location. Do you have any pictures to show the issue?

Post #297958 2nd May 2016 9:54 pm
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Bushx



Member Since: 23 Mar 2016
Location: Alberta
Posts: 15

Canada 2010 LR2 i6 HSE Auto Alaska White

106 plus tax here in Calgary. Bit much for two o-rings and a little plastic piece. Beats paying 500 for the pump tho. I'll post up a few pics when I get to fixing it. Possibly this weekend.

Post #297966 3rd May 2016 1:42 am
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Cambo



Member Since: 08 Mar 2014
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 408

Australia 2008 Freelander 2 i6 HSE Auto Sumatra Black

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Post #297967 3rd May 2016 2:17 am
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Bushx



Member Since: 23 Mar 2016
Location: Alberta
Posts: 15

Canada 2010 LR2 i6 HSE Auto Alaska White

Ok, finally got around to making this repair on the weekend. Pretty easy. You'll need some torx bits, and a short bit ratchet to do this without removing the battery and battery tray like the manual suggests.
1. Remove engine cover.
2. Unplug air sensor on airbox outlet tube
3. remove air box lid
4. remove filter and remove air box.
5. remove the AC bracket.
The pump is held to the block by 2, 10mm (iirc) bolts. One is under the vacuum fitting, the other is opposite it.
Don't remove the Torx screws from the pump cover until you have the pump off the engine like I did, or you risk losing the rotor and it's end seals somewhere in the depths of the engine bay. (I got lucky)
6. Once you have the pump loose from the engine, it's easier to get a hold of the vaccum fitting and disconnect it from the pump. I found it easier to release the fitting from the pump first using a screwdrive to depress the 2 plastic barbs holding it in the metal housing. Then remove the fitting from the hose.
Take it to a bench, remove the cover (torx screws) replace the cover o-ring, replace the engine side o-ring, replace the plastic vacuum fitting, and reinstall.


To start, this is the kit from Volvo, it contains 2 O-rings (one for the pump cover plate and one for the pump to engine interface) the plastic fitting (with it's own o-ring) to which the vacuum hose attaches, and 5 replacement t25 (I think) screws for the pump cover plate. Price is a little high for what you get, but much less than a new pump.


Here's where it's located in the engine bay, and you can see the oil residue accumulation from the leak. Hasn't really been hitting the ground, but making a mess of this side of the engine. This is on the right hand side of the block, facing the engine bay.


Here's a shot with the air box removed.


Pump with cover and rotor removed. Replace the o-ring.


Engine side shot with it's o-ring ready for replacement:


And the plastic fitting, new one of these also was supplied in the Volvo kit:


All in, took me little over an hour.

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green

Post #299360 24th May 2016 7:48 pm
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jutrem



Member Since: 14 Mar 2008
Location: Burlington
Posts: 144

Canada 2008 LR2 i6 HSE Auto Tonga Green

Thanks for the step by step instructions. We need more support like this for LR2 /Freelander 2's with the i6 (petrol) engine.

Post #299438 25th May 2016 9:58 pm
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Telfred



Member Since: 12 Dec 2015
Location: Durban
Posts: 11

South Africa 2008 Freelander 2 i6 HSE Auto Barolo Black

Bushx wrote:

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Mr. Green


Big Cry
Any chance of getting these photos back? Really need em to diagnose if I have the same issue. _____________________________________
Me: 2008 i6 HSE Freelander 2 black. (;D)
Me: 1.6l Renault Megane ??? (Sold)
Wife: 2.0l Tucson Gls

Post #333371 17th Oct 2017 9:31 am
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p_gill



Member Since: 06 Dec 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 1218

United States 2008 Freelander 2 i6 SE Auto Tambora Flame

This video may be helpful.

Note: its for a XC70 but it is nearly the same proceedure on a Freelander 2 with the 3.2





And here is a second video

Note: the first video is closer to what needs to be done on the Freelander 2 in terms of disassembly





Also in this link Turbo removed the pump as part of a bigger job.

http://www.freel2.com/forum/topic28497.html

He took some nice pictures




Good Luck

Paul


Last edited by p_gill on 17th Oct 2017 6:34 pm. Edited 1 time in total

Post #333409 17th Oct 2017 4:03 pm
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Telfred



Member Since: 12 Dec 2015
Location: Durban
Posts: 11

South Africa 2008 Freelander 2 i6 HSE Auto Barolo Black

That is magic. Thank you. _____________________________________
Me: 2008 i6 HSE Freelander 2 black. (;D)
Me: 1.6l Renault Megane ??? (Sold)
Wife: 2.0l Tucson Gls

Post #333412 17th Oct 2017 5:46 pm
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